5.0 mention Bosses weakness
#21
Can I throw the Tri-Ax into the convesation?? This thread is going in many directions so I want to bring the focus back to shifters.
Let me start by saying we have a huge track record of quality and customer service. Like other fourms have mentioned, Barton is a Camaro company trying to break into the Mustang market. Steeda is a Mustang company on the technology transfer program with Ford Motor Company. That is a huge advantage.
The competion has a 40% throw reduction which is going to be notchier and not as smooth, we know cause we experimented with this in our engineering/development phase. In addition, we make improvements to the reverse lockout mechanism no one has bothered to address.
Also, our shifter is going to be better at finding the 2-3 shift than anything else out there, and I've got videos and customer testimonials to prove it.
Here is a testimonial right off another forum.
I installed a tri-ax in my car this past week and have been driving on it for the past week, and I am happy to say I am blown away!
When I saw the pictures and held it in my hand I was very skeptical (as were others in the shop) when we saw no east-west springs as in previous tri-ax's. However after install all of use were amazed at the control in this shifter. We were worried that the shifter would not make a big difference, we were VERY VERY wrong.
100% of the slop is ELIMINATED. The shifter is not notchy, it is easy to engage each gear and finding the gate is not an issue. However you never have that mushy in between the factory shifter gave you which left you wondering: is this first or third? while sitting at a light.
My favorite part is the 2-3 shift. I push forward with an open palm and the shifter authoritatively finds 3rd for me 100% of the time. You will NOT miss 3rd with this shifter.
Finally the reverse spring is 10X harder then factory and that’s exactly what I was hoping for. It was far too easy to engage reverse with the factory shifter. If its too firm for you they include and optional spring with a lesser rate in the box.
Overall: Its so good I could never drive my car with the factory shifter again.
If having the shortest throw is your thing, then the Tri Ax can't compete. However there will be a compromise in smoothness. Some people will be fine with it, some wont. With our shifter there is no compromise. We offer a far superior 2-3 shift, improve the factory reverse lockout, smooth shifts, lifetime warranty, and all at a much better price.
Here is the write up in 5.0 magazine:
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec..._gt/index.html
Here is just a cut from that article- "
"The Steeda Tri-Ax is like steroids for the stock shifter mechanism. It amplifies what's already there by bestowing shorter throws and more feel without throwing the stock shifter's NVH out the window," Steve said. "In short, it's just what the shift doctor ordered for the preponderance of street 'Stang owners."
Whether you are looking for a shifter for your Boss, 5.0, or V6, Steeda has them all. Check us out and see for yourself the Steeda Difference.
http://www.steeda.com/store/ford-mus...-shifters.html
Let me start by saying we have a huge track record of quality and customer service. Like other fourms have mentioned, Barton is a Camaro company trying to break into the Mustang market. Steeda is a Mustang company on the technology transfer program with Ford Motor Company. That is a huge advantage.
The competion has a 40% throw reduction which is going to be notchier and not as smooth, we know cause we experimented with this in our engineering/development phase. In addition, we make improvements to the reverse lockout mechanism no one has bothered to address.
Also, our shifter is going to be better at finding the 2-3 shift than anything else out there, and I've got videos and customer testimonials to prove it.
Here is a testimonial right off another forum.
I installed a tri-ax in my car this past week and have been driving on it for the past week, and I am happy to say I am blown away!
When I saw the pictures and held it in my hand I was very skeptical (as were others in the shop) when we saw no east-west springs as in previous tri-ax's. However after install all of use were amazed at the control in this shifter. We were worried that the shifter would not make a big difference, we were VERY VERY wrong.
100% of the slop is ELIMINATED. The shifter is not notchy, it is easy to engage each gear and finding the gate is not an issue. However you never have that mushy in between the factory shifter gave you which left you wondering: is this first or third? while sitting at a light.
My favorite part is the 2-3 shift. I push forward with an open palm and the shifter authoritatively finds 3rd for me 100% of the time. You will NOT miss 3rd with this shifter.
Finally the reverse spring is 10X harder then factory and that’s exactly what I was hoping for. It was far too easy to engage reverse with the factory shifter. If its too firm for you they include and optional spring with a lesser rate in the box.
Overall: Its so good I could never drive my car with the factory shifter again.
If having the shortest throw is your thing, then the Tri Ax can't compete. However there will be a compromise in smoothness. Some people will be fine with it, some wont. With our shifter there is no compromise. We offer a far superior 2-3 shift, improve the factory reverse lockout, smooth shifts, lifetime warranty, and all at a much better price.
Here is the write up in 5.0 magazine:
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec..._gt/index.html
Here is just a cut from that article- "
"The Steeda Tri-Ax is like steroids for the stock shifter mechanism. It amplifies what's already there by bestowing shorter throws and more feel without throwing the stock shifter's NVH out the window," Steve said. "In short, it's just what the shift doctor ordered for the preponderance of street 'Stang owners."
Whether you are looking for a shifter for your Boss, 5.0, or V6, Steeda has them all. Check us out and see for yourself the Steeda Difference.
http://www.steeda.com/store/ford-mus...-shifters.html
#22
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the strange thing to me is that scott has it in 5th, i have it in 4th. i have also said many times, the issue is only at high rpm, and by high i mean at red line 7500. i shift at 7k-7300 on the track now, and it shifts like it should. rev that car up to 7500 and you wont be shifting into 4th.
at any rate, ive heard a few times now that the shifter doesn't fix the issue. idk what its going to take to get it fixed. i have talked to a guy that owns a shop and drag races a 12 5.0 with a hellion turbo kit on it. they had the high rpm lock out in that car and he said changing the clutch from stock to a spec stage 3 clutch/flywheel fixed the problem completely for them at the drag strip. sounds like a new clutch may be the only real fix.
at any rate, ive heard a few times now that the shifter doesn't fix the issue. idk what its going to take to get it fixed. i have talked to a guy that owns a shop and drag races a 12 5.0 with a hellion turbo kit on it. they had the high rpm lock out in that car and he said changing the clutch from stock to a spec stage 3 clutch/flywheel fixed the problem completely for them at the drag strip. sounds like a new clutch may be the only real fix.
#23
A Man Just Needs Some....
As much as I like to pick on you Boss guys, I do know a few things. I was a professional mechanic for 14 years and a certified master tech. I wouldn't troll you guys about technical stuff.
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Peter
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i changed my fluid and it did nothing for the issue. i wonder if there is an issue with pressure plate bolts, as some have suspected, if having one that is loose in a different spot would account for things like scott's being a 5th gear issue and mine being a 4th gear issue.
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I can't speak to the clutch issue, but I still think some are not letting the detents do their job and are hitting the gates.
I still have yet to read where someone tried Torque Limiters. Seems like the fact that some have problems at high/max rpm shifts would point to this solution. You are at max power and engine and trans are torqued at or near their limits. Adding bracing to assure your shifting method at high/max rpm's is consistent with normal shifting could be an easy solution.
This solved the issue for some that had shifting challenges at high speed with the Tremec, maybe it would solve it for the Getrag.
Link says for the 2011...
http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-317.htm
I still have yet to read where someone tried Torque Limiters. Seems like the fact that some have problems at high/max rpm shifts would point to this solution. You are at max power and engine and trans are torqued at or near their limits. Adding bracing to assure your shifting method at high/max rpm's is consistent with normal shifting could be an easy solution.
This solved the issue for some that had shifting challenges at high speed with the Tremec, maybe it would solve it for the Getrag.
Link says for the 2011...
http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-317.htm
Last edited by cdynaco; 2/6/12 at 02:26 PM.
#29
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Like Shane I don't think changing fluid is going to help your issue. Have you looked into a shifter bracket? I installed the Steeda on my car. It's an inexpensive and easy mod. It didn't do much for my car but where I did notice a difference is shifting into and out of 5th and 6th where you're putting lateral pressure on the shifter. You might want to give it a try. I also have Redline MTL in my tranny and it helped cold shifts and makes the shifts feel a bit smoother.
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i changed my fluid and it did nothing for the issue. i wonder if there is an issue with pressure plate bolts, as some have suspected, if having one that is loose in a different spot would account for things like scott's being a 5th gear issue and mine being a 4th gear issue.
Disappointed to hear your fluid change results. Was planning on doing that --- now maybe not. Are you sure you got all the old DOT 3 out of the clutch hydraulic line and slave cylinder?
Has anyone tried the stainless steel clutch line?
BTW, I have this problem in 3rd and 4th gear.
Thanks.
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Hi Shane,
Disappointed to hear your fluid change results. Was planning on doing that --- now maybe not. Are you sure you got all the old DOT 3 out of the clutch hydraulic line and slave cylinder?
Has anyone tried the stainless steel clutch line?
BTW, I have this problem in 3rd and 4th gear.
Thanks.
Disappointed to hear your fluid change results. Was planning on doing that --- now maybe not. Are you sure you got all the old DOT 3 out of the clutch hydraulic line and slave cylinder?
Has anyone tried the stainless steel clutch line?
BTW, I have this problem in 3rd and 4th gear.
Thanks.
that said, the fluid i found locally was crap. its dot 4, but i was still boiling the fluid on a track admittedly hard on brakes leading to copious fade. i'm going to brembo lcf 600+ this weekend when i swap my pads. They just came in today! the pad material looks thicker than the HP+ pads on the carbotech RP2 pads i bought for the front at the track. the pad material is an odd silver color too. i cant wait to try them at the track on the 25th.
scott has that high cap clutch line on his car, he can give you some impressions.
Last edited by ShaneM; 2/6/12 at 02:37 PM.
#32
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I can't speak to the clutch issue, but I still think some are not letting the detents do their job and are hitting the gates.
I still have yet to read where someone tried Torque Limiters. Seems like the fact that some have problems at high/max rpm shifts would point to this solution. You are at max power and engine and trans are torqued at or near their limits. Adding bracing to assure your shifting method at high/max rpm's is consistent with normal shifting could be an easy solution.
This solved the issue for some that had shifting challenges at high speed with the Tremec, maybe it would solve it for the Getrag.
Link says for the 2011...
http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-317.htm
I still have yet to read where someone tried Torque Limiters. Seems like the fact that some have problems at high/max rpm shifts would point to this solution. You are at max power and engine and trans are torqued at or near their limits. Adding bracing to assure your shifting method at high/max rpm's is consistent with normal shifting could be an easy solution.
This solved the issue for some that had shifting challenges at high speed with the Tremec, maybe it would solve it for the Getrag.
Link says for the 2011...
http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-317.htm
#33
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i took it to a local shop and had them use the suction machine and flush it all out. it should have all the old fluid out. the problem in my case is nothing to do with detents or shifting style, the clutch pedal doesn't fully come back up from the floor to the released position. anyway, as i said i found the "fix" to be shift at 7k or so and all is fine.
that said, the fluid i found locally was crap. its dot 4, but i was still boiling the fluid on a track admittedly hard on brakes leading to copious fade. i'm going to brembo lcf 600+ this weekend when i swap my pads. They just came in today! the pad material looks thicker than the HP+ pads on the carbotech RP2 pads i bought for the front at the track. the pad material is an odd silver color too. i cant wait to try them at the track on the 25th.
scott has that high cap clutch line on his car, he can give you some impressions.
that said, the fluid i found locally was crap. its dot 4, but i was still boiling the fluid on a track admittedly hard on brakes leading to copious fade. i'm going to brembo lcf 600+ this weekend when i swap my pads. They just came in today! the pad material looks thicker than the HP+ pads on the carbotech RP2 pads i bought for the front at the track. the pad material is an odd silver color too. i cant wait to try them at the track on the 25th.
scott has that high cap clutch line on his car, he can give you some impressions.
I just can't shake the thought that the problem is in the hydraulics.....
Good luck with the new pads!
- Jim
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i should have added to my previous post, i had a blown 10 and put that chp brace on it with torque limiters, what i have with the boss is a completely different animal. i suspect with a different tranny between 10 and 11-12 cars that brace may not work.
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Thanks Shane. I, too, have the clutch pedal release problem (and I assume the clutch hydraulics are failing to fully disengage clutch, hence the difficulty and (sometimes) grind when shifting).
I just can't shake the thought that the problem is in the hydraulics.....
Good luck with the new pads!
- Jim
I just can't shake the thought that the problem is in the hydraulics.....
Good luck with the new pads!
- Jim
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Like Shane I don't think changing fluid is going to help your issue. Have you looked into a shifter bracket? I installed the Steeda on my car. It's an inexpensive and easy mod. It didn't do much for my car but where I did notice a difference is shifting into and out of 5th and 6th where you're putting lateral pressure on the shifter. You might want to give it a try. I also have Redline MTL in my tranny and it helped cold shifts and makes the shifts feel a bit smoother.
Steeda bracket was installed before last trip to Sebring with no difference. Car shifts fine starting track session but gets progressively worse going into 5th the longer you stay out.
The shifting is the one thing that has turned me off on the Boss vs the M3 and GT3.
Peter
#37
A Man Just Needs Some....
Originally Posted by OLOABoss
Steeda bracket was installed before last trip to Sebring with no difference. Car shifts fine starting track session but gets progressively worse going into 5th the longer you stay out.
The shifting is the one thing that has turned me off on the Boss vs the M3 and GT3.
Peter
#38
It is interesting you mention the clutch as the possible and not the trans. I really do not know enough to say one way or the other but when the time comes I will upgrade my clutch. If, in the mean time those people that have problems swap out the clutch and find the problem goes away it would be worth trying.
I apologize for my remarks but I am tired of seeing post after post of people that are lucky enough not to have the problem assume it is operator error on the part of hundreds of owners. While there are some variations the main complaint is always the same. Some cars are worse then others, some do it on the street and some on track but it always comes down to the same basic problem. I love the Boss and it is a great car for the money but that still does not mean there are zero problems.
When I short shift the car it has no problems. For example I short shifted on the banking at Daytona because I was scared to take my eye off the wall at first to look at the RPM's. I HAD NO PROBLEMS doing this, as soon as I was at or near 7500 bang -hit the wall-. I can assure you I did nothing different other then shift at a different RPM, I mean, come on, how good would I have to be to make a entirely different kind of shift, exactly the same way at the two different RPM's to get the same result each time? I am not sure anyone could do that.
I get the same result at other places, I was at Sebring a few weeks ago. Nice long back straight, shift at red-line and bang no fifth. Then a couple of time on the front and the straight before the hairpin I short shifted and no problem, same lap! I short shifted because going to fifth was a new learning experience for me there as I learned to exit corners at greater speeds. This also required shifting to fifth while in a turn so I was not always able to look at the gauges.
Peter is correct in saying the problem seems to get worse with heat. Shane, my car is extremely hard to get into fifth but I have also had issues with fourth. The clutch line was installed for a different problem, the clutch pedal sticking. So far so good but only time will tell if that helps. This weekend at the track the driver of a mid-year build LS had the clutch stick down, so the reports continue on that front. Swapping out to dot 4 in the clutch line will make no difference in MHO.
-------------------
Going back to the shifter swap, again IMO only it is to address issues with the shifter and making it better. Aftermarket companies have been doing that for years. Some work, many do not. MGW did a fantastic job on their shifter. If you have MT-82 problems or not the shifter is totally worth it. If you want a more precise shifter without any slop get it. If you are looking to fix lock out problems you will be disappointed there and even George will tell you that. I can report that the shifter has helped my problem but not completely. Still you would be hard pressed to find anybody that would go back to the factory shifter if they came to your house installed it and let you try it for a week.
I have driven several Bosses with the stock, Steeda and MGW and the MGW is far out front. My opinion only and others will vary. I have not driven with the Barton shifter. Again I am no expert, just a guy who was lucky enough to use the different shifters I would choose the MGW. I am not paid to say that and paid full price for the MGW unit.
Because my name was mentioned:
I do not claim to be an expert, quite the opposite but if I did not explain myself as a fellow Mustang enthusiast please ask away. I have been able to rack up some good seat time in the Boss on track so I will answer the best I can.
I apologize for my remarks but I am tired of seeing post after post of people that are lucky enough not to have the problem assume it is operator error on the part of hundreds of owners. While there are some variations the main complaint is always the same. Some cars are worse then others, some do it on the street and some on track but it always comes down to the same basic problem. I love the Boss and it is a great car for the money but that still does not mean there are zero problems.
When I short shift the car it has no problems. For example I short shifted on the banking at Daytona because I was scared to take my eye off the wall at first to look at the RPM's. I HAD NO PROBLEMS doing this, as soon as I was at or near 7500 bang -hit the wall-. I can assure you I did nothing different other then shift at a different RPM, I mean, come on, how good would I have to be to make a entirely different kind of shift, exactly the same way at the two different RPM's to get the same result each time? I am not sure anyone could do that.
I get the same result at other places, I was at Sebring a few weeks ago. Nice long back straight, shift at red-line and bang no fifth. Then a couple of time on the front and the straight before the hairpin I short shifted and no problem, same lap! I short shifted because going to fifth was a new learning experience for me there as I learned to exit corners at greater speeds. This also required shifting to fifth while in a turn so I was not always able to look at the gauges.
Peter is correct in saying the problem seems to get worse with heat. Shane, my car is extremely hard to get into fifth but I have also had issues with fourth. The clutch line was installed for a different problem, the clutch pedal sticking. So far so good but only time will tell if that helps. This weekend at the track the driver of a mid-year build LS had the clutch stick down, so the reports continue on that front. Swapping out to dot 4 in the clutch line will make no difference in MHO.
-------------------
Going back to the shifter swap, again IMO only it is to address issues with the shifter and making it better. Aftermarket companies have been doing that for years. Some work, many do not. MGW did a fantastic job on their shifter. If you have MT-82 problems or not the shifter is totally worth it. If you want a more precise shifter without any slop get it. If you are looking to fix lock out problems you will be disappointed there and even George will tell you that. I can report that the shifter has helped my problem but not completely. Still you would be hard pressed to find anybody that would go back to the factory shifter if they came to your house installed it and let you try it for a week.
I have driven several Bosses with the stock, Steeda and MGW and the MGW is far out front. My opinion only and others will vary. I have not driven with the Barton shifter. Again I am no expert, just a guy who was lucky enough to use the different shifters I would choose the MGW. I am not paid to say that and paid full price for the MGW unit.
Because my name was mentioned:
I do not claim to be an expert, quite the opposite but if I did not explain myself as a fellow Mustang enthusiast please ask away. I have been able to rack up some good seat time in the Boss on track so I will answer the best I can.
Last edited by 2012YellowBoss; 2/6/12 at 05:02 PM.
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