11.84 @ 115!
V6 Member
Joined: May 29, 2011
Posts: 94
Likes: 1
From: Salem Or.
Nice times! I hope to get my Boss on a track next summer (the kind it was more intended for that is) My goal this spring is a sub 12.2 all stock, I really believe its in it. 12.27 is my best so far and that pass spun in 2nd pretty good.
I would like to play with the short shift concept a bit also, on the street it seems that it wants to spin more (on the 1-2) the shorter I shift it tho...
I would like to play with the short shift concept a bit also, on the street it seems that it wants to spin more (on the 1-2) the shorter I shift it tho...
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: January 21, 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
From: Laredo, Tx
Correct, that's because the gear "lands" in a fatter part of your torque curve, making harder acceleration possible. I see how that can be a problem on street tires. As a matter of fact that happened to me on the 2-3 shift last week. Definately a scary situation as I was a bit heavy on the pedal
Last edited by Brawlin' Boss; Dec 6, 2011 at 08:19 AM. Reason: more info
Cobra Member
Joined: October 9, 2004
Posts: 1,460
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I didn't want to bore you guys with all the details of my runs, I hate those wordy posts. My first run was shifting as 7400 and a good chunk of wheelspin. and it netted me a 12.2 @ 117. The next couple of runs were better due to 60ft and same shifting rpm, just higher launch rpm best I got was a 11.979 @ 115. My last two runs were identical launch of 4500 but with earlier shifts (200rpm) incremements until I got my 11.84. My first visit to the track I did a few runs shifting around 7600 and I got 12.4. When I said "seat time" I didn't mean learning how to drag race, I meant learning what the car liked. I am never one shy of spinning an engine to moon if it means lower e.t.s trust me.
It was mind boggling to me why I was seeing other "more stock" cars turning quicker e.t.s than me. So I took the advice of a forum member and shifted earlier, it worked for me and I can't argue with that. I will definately keep trying different rpms, most likely higher and higher launches. I am hell bent on a sub 11.5
BTW: after a few runs I realized I hadn't set my rear shocks to 1, fronts are already at 3, I did that and it really helped my 60ft.
It was mind boggling to me why I was seeing other "more stock" cars turning quicker e.t.s than me. So I took the advice of a forum member and shifted earlier, it worked for me and I can't argue with that. I will definately keep trying different rpms, most likely higher and higher launches. I am hell bent on a sub 11.5BTW: after a few runs I realized I hadn't set my rear shocks to 1, fronts are already at 3, I did that and it really helped my 60ft.
True in a sense, False.
A drag car's suspension is stiffer in the rear than in the front. In fact, going to a stiffer (rebound) setting in the rear will help with wheel hop. Squatting is generally bad for a drag car (loss of forward energy). Similar in the front albeit a nice looking wheel stand. A softer front setting will help weight transfer to the point of full droop. The fronts shocks are not dampened correctly to take full advantage of weight transfer regardless (need less rebound).
In general: Stiffer spring in the rear, lighter spring in front, reduce rebound in front, remove front sway bar, add a heavier adj. rear bar, add a little preload to the right rear, adjust pinion angle, etc. There is plenty more by maximizing IC and CG (adj. LCA/UCA).
Shocking the rear tires too fast or too hard will net wheel spin. Too little or too late, the car might initially hook, but unload shortly after.
I recall a few people on this board setting the shocks at 5r and 1f, then adjusting the rear if needed. As several stated, peak horsepower is your friend, not torque, especially with a manual. With a 117 mph trap, your leaving a little on the table. Try 7,000 rpm 1-2 shift, 7400 2-3 and 3-4. The short shifting might help reduce wheel spin.
Dave
A drag car's suspension is stiffer in the rear than in the front. In fact, going to a stiffer (rebound) setting in the rear will help with wheel hop. Squatting is generally bad for a drag car (loss of forward energy). Similar in the front albeit a nice looking wheel stand. A softer front setting will help weight transfer to the point of full droop. The fronts shocks are not dampened correctly to take full advantage of weight transfer regardless (need less rebound).
In general: Stiffer spring in the rear, lighter spring in front, reduce rebound in front, remove front sway bar, add a heavier adj. rear bar, add a little preload to the right rear, adjust pinion angle, etc. There is plenty more by maximizing IC and CG (adj. LCA/UCA).
Shocking the rear tires too fast or too hard will net wheel spin. Too little or too late, the car might initially hook, but unload shortly after.
I recall a few people on this board setting the shocks at 5r and 1f, then adjusting the rear if needed. As several stated, peak horsepower is your friend, not torque, especially with a manual. With a 117 mph trap, your leaving a little on the table. Try 7,000 rpm 1-2 shift, 7400 2-3 and 3-4. The short shifting might help reduce wheel spin.
Dave
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