2012 Mustang gt. Tonight, my power steering went away. I get a "Power Steering Assist Fault" and a "Service Power Steering Now"...

The only thing I think I can do myself is check the big honkin fuse. Its fine.

What am I looking at, to get this fixed?

 

It sounds like you may be looking at replacing the EPAS. The EPAS units are available through Ford or there are several companies that offer aftermarket rebuilds. It isn't really that bad of a job but plan on 3-4 hours. Ford says you need to remove motor mount bolts and jack up the engine to gain clearance on the bolts, but it can be done without lifting the motor. It takes a flex head fine tooth ratchet, flex head ratcheting box end wrenches and a bit of patience.

 

Where is it?

 

I found it. The mechanism underneath near the oil filter, correct?

Looks like two big honkin bolts mount it, and then the ball links on each end?

What else to get it out?

 

This doesn't look too bad...

 

It is the electric power assisted steering unit - the steering rack Starting in 2011 they moved from hydraulic assist to electric assist. The EPAS has an electronic control module in it. It is most likely either the EPAS itself or it is receiving a bad signal. They are susceptible to fluctuations in voltage. This may help. It is for a 2011, but the 2014 shouldn't be any different. http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=797&f=Steering%20Gear.pdf

 

Sounds like there is no repair. You just replace. I found a remanufactured item for $300. But I assume it needs a reprogram?

 

It should come programmed. Ford does not like to reflash them. Be careful ordering one. The programming is different for the V6 and V8 cars. Also, it is calibrated for wheel diameter.

 

So. Maybe I buy used then. This remanufactured one does not say programmed or not. I see several used. As long as wheel size matches, I'm ok?

 

Besides the big fuse on the battery terminal, and the unit itself needing replacement, is there anything else to look into?

 

Found this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283978212254

 

It is harder than it looks. The bolts are hard to reach and they go through from the top. That is probably why the Ford procedure includes taking out motor mount bolts and lifting the motor some to gain clearance. The nuts on the bottom are welded in place. In some instances you will be turning 1/8 of a turn at a time, but they will come out. On the reinstall I could get a torque wrench on 2 bolts and had to guess on the third one. You can't slide the rack in and then insert all of the bolts. You need to put place at least one of the bolts in the rack before you slide it into place. I think it was the one on the passenger side.

I would be careful with a used one. It will be of similar age and mileage to what you have and may develop similar issues sooner rather than later. Also, a rack from a car that was in a front end collision may have issues. Look at someplace like Tasca Parts and see what the correct part number is for your car then look for direct replacements for that item. Ford had 3-4 part numbers depending on wheel size. Each part number had calibrations and tie rods sized for the car/wheel size. It has been over a year since I swapped mine out, but if I remember correctly the numbers are similar but have some different letters near the end denoting wheel size. The 2011 and early 2012 cars had issues with the lane drift correction programming under certain circumstances requiring a swap to a later rack or the Ford Racing unit (which is off-road use only). I was unable to find a suitable used rack for 19" wheels from a later car at the time and went with a new one from Ford. The rebuilders could not guarantee me which calibration they were using.

 

Can you tell from the video I posted, how that guy got at the bolts? He didn't seem to struggle.

 

Saw another where a guy just cut the welds that hold the nuts to the frame and removed the nuts from below.

 

And again, if the fuse is not blown, the whole thing goes?

 

Better?

 

It is either a bad EPAS or a bad signal to the EPAS. There are some testing procedures to determine if you have proper voltage at the EPAS. I didn't care about the testing procedures since I had the early programming which was the problem. You can google the testing procedures or look up in a Ford manual.

If you need to swap it oI wouldn't cut the welds, they are recessed in the K-member. They will come out. It just takes a little patience. The bolts are loc tited from the factory, so it helps if you heat them with a propane torch to dissolve it. Then after cooling spray them with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil and let sit. The 3 bolts will come out, but the passenger side is tough to get at. You will need a long handle flex head ratchet to get enough swing on the handle to work it out. The other two I was able to break loose and remove with a standard 1/2 drive ratchet and a shallow socket.

 

Going looking for test procedure

 

Good luck

 

Well, Google is no help. Too much selling going on...

The internet has become one of those third world markets where everywhere you look is someone pushing something in your face to buy.

And if it takes more than a multi meter, I'm out anyway...