2012 V6 Mustang.

First time was under warranty, they used words like "Smashed" but it was all free so they didn't tell me much. The next time the ring on the peg one the side of the pedal arm broke and vanished, looks like it flew to the side and into nether reaches of the unibody. Snapped off the neutral switch, this is gonna be a fun one to sort out.

The dealer told me that what broke is a part of the clutch master cylinder, which would have to be replaced. I rigged up something that didn't last and could drive pushing the neutral switch by hand, (It reaches me just fine) but trying to learn about the neutral switch mounting I see this post with a video that shows the pedal assembly removed and what's broken on my car is still connected with the pedals outside the car. https://themustangsource.com/forums/...sticky-539109/ Easier to see in this photograph than anything else I've seen.

I'm also assuming that piece on top that says to remove it or it'll be broken is indeed broken as I don't seem to have anything there. Would that cause the clutch pedal to come up higher than it should? (I think that's happening.)

So I'm discovering the name 'Clutch Interlock Connector' being used on some cars. A stage between the master cylinder and the pedal. Illustrations for other cars remind me of mine. I should think that is what's broken off. What's the proper name for the Mustang so I can order one? How do I replace it?

And how is the neutral switch mounted? I have to get it just so to work, right?, I assume something is broken off.

Since this will probably come up, how do you remove the pedal assembly? Is it possible my pedal is too wobbly and will break this connector once fixed?

 

There should be a slot that the switch goes through, it is installed by inserting the switch and rotating (1/8 turn). It is the rotation that locks the adjustment of that switch, that is why it has to be install with the clutch pedal at rest. A missing switch will not affect the at rest position of the clutch pedal. I thought "interlock" would refer to the other clutch switch, the one to the left of the pedal and below the master cylinder. That one is used for the starter interlock.

There shouldn't be much play in the clutch pedal. The switches can't affect that. If your clutch pedal is wobbly, I'd start looking at the clutch pedal itself closely.

Basically removing the pedal assembly requires removing all three switches (2 clutch, 1 brake), disconnecting the hose to the reservoir (underhood), removing the clip and the hose to the slave cylinder, removing the brake pedal clevis pin, removing the 4 nuts that secure the pedal box to the brake booster studs, and the two bolts that connect the pedal box under the dash. Then you get to fight with the assembly and the wiring harness to get the pedal assembly out. And again when the replacement is installed. Not fun, but necessary if there is a problem with the pedal itself.