jc46002003

Hi Mustang community,

Just wanted to post for everyones' information. I have a 2014 Mustang gt (6r80 auto) with the engine tick. Bought it about 6 months ago new. Daily driver ( about 500 miles per week ).

To duplicate the problem I will start it when dead cold and let it idle. Once the cylinder head temperature reaches 194 degrees, I start to hear this, tap tap, tap, tap tap tap, tap. After about 30 minutes the noise goes away.

Noticed the issue at around 6k miles.
Car now has 12K miles.
First oil change was at4k ( Ford recommended syn blend )
Only changes to the car are Borla S type AB's and I replaced those bull**** stock tires with General G-max 245-45-19. The G-max's are loud as hell but they are way more comfortable than stock. I don't mind the tire noise when I don't have any steering wheel vibrations. I put about 20k miles on a set on my 2012 mustang and they held up very well with very thick tread still left on them.

The ticking symtom hasn't changed in frequency during the 6k miles since I've noticed the issue. It probably did start to happen after the first oil change like everyone else's but I can't be certain.

Car is at the dealer now and they're going to pull the tranny out and inspect. They think the noise is coming from between the tranny and the engine so I'm assuming I have a lower-rear engine block issue ( according to what I've seen on other forrms ). You can only hear the noise from under the car. If you pop the hood and put your head around the valve covers all you hear are normal things. Oh, and the engine runs like a normal 5.0. No vibrations or missfires at idle or anywhere else in the band.

Already PM'd Deysha because the dealer didn't want to pay for my rental. Customer service has since contacted me and the rental is now covered. I'm driving a Nissan Versa ( what a horrible machine how do people cope with them? ).

I'll post back with more details as they become available to me.

I love that 6r80 BTW. That select shift is freaking sweet. While in select shift mode, you get 2nd gear torque conveter lockup cluck engagment

PonyMuscletang13

Subscribed. Mine started after 2nd oil change last Saturday. Keep us posted as I will.

jc46002003

Hi Pony,

Man, I wonder how wide this problem is. I was thinking about starting over with a new 14 but ****, I'd probably have the same issue. Trapped!

Starting to sound like Ford realy did cover up this problem by adding their oil additive at the factory.

I'll certainly post back and let you know what happens to mine. The below link not my car but I basically have the same problem heard in this: link:

PonyMuscletang13

Some resources I found:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...-advice-2.html

http://www.chicagolandmustang.com/fo...the-oil-change

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...il-change.html

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f358/t304070/

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...il-change.html

jc46002003

Dear Friends,

I got my car back this morning and throughout today, I've put the car through 4 warm up cycles while idling and the issue appears to be resolved.

The dealer advised that they thought the noise was coming from between the tranny and the engine. However, when they called the Ford hotline they told the tech to remove the engine drive belt and see if the issue would remain. The issue still happened with drive belt removed. So they pulled off the tranny and inspected flex plate and torque converter. No damage was found. Ford hotline instructed put the car back together. Technician put the car back together and tried duplicating the issue. The noise was gone.

Conclusions: unknown. My thoughts are: tranny mount or something inside the housing not bolted up good eough at the factory. I'm happy to report that my tranny is still tight after the work and no new noises or scratches on my paint.

Hopefully this thread helps others.

PonyMuscletang13

Thank you for the update, JC.
It's hard to believe what an oil change can do to our cars - something gets loose and make ticking out of it - so yes, conclusively our ponies are rather sensitive.

We may require advise from someone who possess advanced mechanical knowledge in regards to possible scenarios of error during the vehicle oil change procedure.

But first, let me ask everyone. What exactly is 'oil change'...?

PonyMuscletang13

The tick must have something to do with kind of oil that was put in during oil change. It couldn't have been mechanical failure like others have mentioned (tensioner, belts, a/c related, tranny, pistons...or whatever).

The Oil Grade. Viscosity. 5W-20/30. Sound familiar? Not really, not to me anyways. All I know is that I chose FULL Synthetic over Synthetic Blend (Half Synthetic?) and...

I have absolutely no freaking idea WHAT GRADE or WHAT KIND OF FULL SYNTHETIC that was put into my car!!! - I am going to ask them.

It seems this term 'Viscosity' has a lot to do with temperature. Guess what. It was not just a ticking I noticed when I thought something was different. There was a heat - inside the cabin - hotter than usual.

This oil may have been thicker than suitable. Not sure if this is a correct statement. I'm going to find out.

Capt_Speed

Does this happen on GT's regardless of transmission type (Auto or Manual)?

PonyMuscletang13

I honestly don't know but I doubt it has anything to do with type of tranny because the tick is at idle. Check out the op's video clip. Anything above say 1.5-ish rpm when giving gas, the sound is barely noticeable - goes tadadadada - as the motor spins faster, ticking fades away.

I strongly believe the cause is boiling point in oil. So then full synthetic warms up faster? but don't shelbys require full synthetic oil change by default???

Stay away from oil change Capt, it will make your pony tick!

conv_stang

Shelby is different engine....have 30k on my 2012 with the MT82. No odd ticking yet. I went to full synthetic at 1000 miles and change it every 5000 or so since with full synthetic

PonyMuscletang13

My approach was this: Full Synthetic = better quality. Yes, Shelby's got different engine. Bigger, super-charged, likely to produce more heat & etc therefore requires better quality oil, full-synthetic. So I have dealership put the same stuff on my car. But why am I getting the tick. Make sense?

conv_stang

Oh I understand...a lot of people have complained about the tick after going to synthetic. There are a couple threads on here about it

70monte

I'm coming up on my first oil change on my 2014 GT and keep going back and forth on the decision of whether or not to use a full synthetic vs the semi-synthetic that is currently in it. I'm afraid that if I go full synthetic, I will get this ticking noise.


Years ago I used to use Mobil 1 in my 1998 Chevy truck with the 5.7L I started getting a ticking noise using this oil and finally went back to a conventional oil and the ticking went away. I have not used any synthetic oil since that time. I still own this truck and run Pennzoil conventional oil in it and no ticking noise.


I'm sure that there are plenty of people on here that run a full synthetic with no issues. Decisions, decisions.


Wayne

conv_stang

Don't know. I've used full synthetic on mine since 1000 miles. And I'm almost at 32k now with no issues. I even stayed with the stock weight. Wish Ford could come up with a reason.

70monte

What brand of synthetic do you use? I think brand has a little bit to do with it. On the bobistheoilguy.com forum, most of the people who complain about increased engine noise after switching to a synthetic, seem to be using Mobil 1.


Wayne

wheelman

No issues (knock on wood) so far on '13 GT nonTP @ 20k w/ Amsoil sig series factory weight 5w20 w/ first oil change at ~3,500 and then 7,500 intervals, no tracking but spirited driving. Will probably change to 5k intervals when I finally get on the **** track though.

conv_stang

I use Mobil 1, used it on my 98 Cobra. Haven't had any issues with either. Change mine every 5,000. Mine sees a fair amount or track duty