5.0 ripped apart faulty cylinder no.2 knocking
#1
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5.0 ripped apart faulty cylinder no.2 knocking
2012 GT premium, 17800 miles, fully under warranty.
This is the situation I'm in right now. So my problem was in mornings, if I revved up to 2k rpm, I would hear rattling just under the hood, but it wouldn't happen under 2k rpm and it sounded like unlubricated valves tapping against pistons,but it would go away when engine got warm. My 5.0 has been in the shop since yesterday, upon my complaint dealership sent email to ford engineers which told them to take a look inside. So 2 techs working on it found out that cylinder no2 has a faulty "piston wrist" (apparently its a rod thats connected to the piston and crank shaft) that was causing the tapping. And my guess was that this particular cylinder is the reason for idle tapping too. Along with faulty cylinder no2, they're going to take apart the oil filter and check "bearings" in that cylinder. Its gonna be long time in the shop, he said they might even have to order new engine. we'll see.
UPDATE: the new short block arrived but I cant tell what percent the transfer is completed. Feel free to use my pictures for reference if it helps with your faulty coyote.. I can see they took out the flywheel and everything wow.
OLD
NEW
MISC
This is the situation I'm in right now. So my problem was in mornings, if I revved up to 2k rpm, I would hear rattling just under the hood, but it wouldn't happen under 2k rpm and it sounded like unlubricated valves tapping against pistons,but it would go away when engine got warm. My 5.0 has been in the shop since yesterday, upon my complaint dealership sent email to ford engineers which told them to take a look inside. So 2 techs working on it found out that cylinder no2 has a faulty "piston wrist" (apparently its a rod thats connected to the piston and crank shaft) that was causing the tapping. And my guess was that this particular cylinder is the reason for idle tapping too. Along with faulty cylinder no2, they're going to take apart the oil filter and check "bearings" in that cylinder. Its gonna be long time in the shop, he said they might even have to order new engine. we'll see.
UPDATE: the new short block arrived but I cant tell what percent the transfer is completed. Feel free to use my pictures for reference if it helps with your faulty coyote.. I can see they took out the flywheel and everything wow.
OLD
NEW
MISC
Last edited by HizliBullet; 1/22/15 at 06:02 PM.
#2
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2012 GT premium, 17800 miles, fully under warranty. This is the situation I'm in right now. So my problem was in mornings, if I revved up to 2k rpm, I would hear rattling just under the hood, but it wouldn't happen under 2k rpm and it sounded like unlubricated valves tapping against pistons,but it would go away when engine got warm. My 5.0 has been in the shop since yesterday, upon my complaint dealership sent email to ford engineers which told them to take a look inside. So 2 techs working on it found out that cylinder no2 has a faulty "piston wrist" (apparently its a rod thats connected to the piston and crank shaft) that was causing the tapping. And my guess was that this particular cylinder is the reason for idle tapping too. Along with faulty cylinder no2, they're going to take apart the oil filter and check "bearings" in that cylinder. Its gonna be long time in the shop, he said they might even have to order new engine. we'll see.
Best of luck.
#3
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You sound like this guy:
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...5/#post6857902
Don't you guys have mechanics? To disassemble and inspect an engine?
Sounds like you only have guys with cutting torches with an ax murderer at the ready.
.
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...5/#post6857902
Don't you guys have mechanics? To disassemble and inspect an engine?
Sounds like you only have guys with cutting torches with an ax murderer at the ready.
.
#5
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can anyone tell me what our 5.0 shortblock includes exactly? ford told me it includes everything except heads(crank shaft, valves), they also said if it was "long block" (new to me) it would include the heads but my heads will be transferred over.
it hurts seeing my pony in the cold and ill
it hurts seeing my pony in the cold and ill
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can anyone tell me what our 5.0 shortblock includes exactly? ford told me it includes everything except heads(crank shaft, valves), they also said if it was "long block" (new to me) it would include the heads but my heads will be transferred over.
it hurts seeing my pony in the cold and ill
it hurts seeing my pony in the cold and ill
The short block arrives completely assembled (crankshaft, main bearings & bearing caps, pistons with rings, connecting rods, rod bearings and bearing caps, wrist pins, [the entire rotating assembly of the lower part of the engine], oil pump, etc.), with everything needed inside the aluminum block to run.
Then they put your (2) cylinder heads (with its valves, valve springs, cams, roller followers, cam chains, cam sprockets, etc.) onto the new short block; bolt on the ancillary stuff (intake manifold, fuel injectors, spark plugs with coils, throttle body, water pump, starter, alternator, belt, etc., etc.) and you're done.
Ready to fire it up!
.
Last edited by cdynaco; 1/15/15 at 08:01 PM.
#12
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Here's a great article on the 5.0 Coyote with lots of engine pics. You might find it interesting to learn about.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...e/viewall.html
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...e/viewall.html
#13
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guys so much guys i had no clue it was that serious until it happened to me :O
so now im debating whether I should trade it early for a new 15 5.0 while it has a good value
so now im debating whether I should trade it early for a new 15 5.0 while it has a good value
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But don't do it simply because a mechanic disassembled/reassembled your engine. They are machines. They are made from scratch and can be re-made from scratch over and over again, no problem.
Plus, you get to break in a new engine, it should run great, you have a factory warranty, for no out of pocket money.
And I love breaking in a new engine putting it through its paces...
#15
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You can if you really want a 15.
But don't do it simply because a mechanic disassembled/reassembled your engine. They are machines. They are made from scratch and can be re-made from scratch over and over again, no problem.
Plus, you get to break in a new engine, it should run great, you have a factory warranty, for no out of pocket money.
And I love breaking in a new engine putting it through its paces...
But don't do it simply because a mechanic disassembled/reassembled your engine. They are machines. They are made from scratch and can be re-made from scratch over and over again, no problem.
Plus, you get to break in a new engine, it should run great, you have a factory warranty, for no out of pocket money.
And I love breaking in a new engine putting it through its paces...
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2012 GT premium, 17800 miles, fully under warranty.
This is the situation I'm in right now. So my problem was in mornings, if I revved up to 2k rpm, I would hear rattling just under the hood, but it wouldn't happen under 2k rpm and it sounded like unlubricated valves tapping against pistons,but it would go away when engine got warm. My 5.0 has been in the shop since yesterday, upon my complaint dealership sent email to ford engineers which told them to take a look inside. So 2 techs working on it found out that cylinder no2 has a faulty "piston wrist" (apparently its a rod thats connected to the piston and crank shaft) that was causing the tapping. And my guess was that this particular cylinder is the reason for idle tapping too. Along with faulty cylinder no2, they're going to take apart the oil filter and check "bearings" in that cylinder. Its gonna be long time in the shop, he said they might even have to order new engine. we'll see.
This is the situation I'm in right now. So my problem was in mornings, if I revved up to 2k rpm, I would hear rattling just under the hood, but it wouldn't happen under 2k rpm and it sounded like unlubricated valves tapping against pistons,but it would go away when engine got warm. My 5.0 has been in the shop since yesterday, upon my complaint dealership sent email to ford engineers which told them to take a look inside. So 2 techs working on it found out that cylinder no2 has a faulty "piston wrist" (apparently its a rod thats connected to the piston and crank shaft) that was causing the tapping. And my guess was that this particular cylinder is the reason for idle tapping too. Along with faulty cylinder no2, they're going to take apart the oil filter and check "bearings" in that cylinder. Its gonna be long time in the shop, he said they might even have to order new engine. we'll see.
Thanks for all the information. Please send me a private message with your full name, phone number, VIN, and dealer; I'll loop in your regional customer service manager, who works closely with your dealer towards the best resolution.
Nikki
Ford Service CA
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#19
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Like Father...
I ♥ Sausage
I ♥ Sausage
You can if you really want a 15.
But don't do it simply because a mechanic disassembled/reassembled your engine. They are machines. They are made from scratch and can be re-made from scratch over and over again, no problem.
Plus, you get to break in a new engine, it should run great, you have a factory warranty, for no out of pocket money.
And I love breaking in a new engine putting it through its paces...
But don't do it simply because a mechanic disassembled/reassembled your engine. They are machines. They are made from scratch and can be re-made from scratch over and over again, no problem.
Plus, you get to break in a new engine, it should run great, you have a factory warranty, for no out of pocket money.
And I love breaking in a new engine putting it through its paces...
Last edited by Rather B.Blown; 1/16/15 at 02:15 PM.