5.0 ripped apart faulty cylinder no.2 knocking
I assume you mean the oil change monitor? My 08 Bullitt doesn't have that gadget so I don't know. Even if it did I wouldn't use it. lol
I like checking in on my engine and I keep a written maintenance log of dates and mileage. Old school stuff.
If you mean the mileage odometer, it's illegal to change that.
I like checking in on my engine and I keep a written maintenance log of dates and mileage. Old school stuff.

If you mean the mileage odometer, it's illegal to change that.
okay so i got my car back an hour ago, still at work but so far knock on wood no ticking, runs smooth as butter, no odd noises, everything just works in harmony.. quarter tank gas left, thinking of getting 91 for the first few times and driving it for good 200 miles non stop.. should i get 91 octane as a starting out as clean slate or continue as 89?
Personally, I like to run it in to how I'm going to drive it - easing it up to the top end (after the engine is good and warm of course!). Which means through the entire rpm range as I run through the gears. I would run it up to 3 and 4 and 5k several times and shift, then maybe after 50 or 100 miles up to 6 and out, then after some more miles up to redline and out a few times (I never hung at redline just up and out). I wanted everything to be run through the entire rpm range. Then just drive regular for some more miles.
I also read on a piston ring site where its good to leave it in gear to decelerate some also. So up to 3 or 4 or 5k, leave it in gear and then decel down some and then shift - mixing that in every so often - vs put the clutch in and coast very time. Supposedly this works the rings in both ways quicker for better seating.
Then drive like you would normal. Then play again. Mix it up. It's fun and this has worked for me for several engines.
Keep the stereo off, listen to that new engine sing, and have some fun!!
Last edited by cdynaco; Jan 23, 2015 at 07:33 PM.
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Nobody reported leaks around the engine or puddles on the garage floor. Which means the oil had to be burned.
So the assumption is it takes a bit longer for piston rings to 'seat' (wear in so they make a good seal in the cylinder under the compression stroke) in the 5.0 compared to other engines. After 1000 miles or so, or after guys finally ran them hard, the oil consumption went away. There's a number of threads here for the 2011 forward GT and Boss. And sadly, it shows many guys don't lift their hood and check their oil and other fluids.
Whereas the previous engine - the 4.6L3V didn't have that issue. Mine never used hardly any oil, and this last change (at 30k miles) used 1/2 qt after 5500 miles.
So I'd check that oil every 100 miles or so until you are confident it's not using excessive oil.
So the assumption is it takes a bit longer for piston rings to 'seat' (wear in so they make a good seal in the cylinder under the compression stroke) in the 5.0 compared to other engines. After 1000 miles or so, or after guys finally ran them hard, the oil consumption went away. There's a number of threads here for the 2011 forward GT and Boss. And sadly, it shows many guys don't lift their hood and check their oil and other fluids.

Whereas the previous engine - the 4.6L3V didn't have that issue. Mine never used hardly any oil, and this last change (at 30k miles) used 1/2 qt after 5500 miles.
So I'd check that oil every 100 miles or so until you are confident it's not using excessive oil.
Perfect I filled up 91 gas tonight, revved it 5k between shifts, varying speeds, no more ticking!
This is a video when I first picked it up before the driving
New 5.0 V8 Mustang shortblock 23 Jan 2015:
This is a video when I first picked it up before the driving
New 5.0 V8 Mustang shortblock 23 Jan 2015:
IIRC it was much longer than that Charlie, which made all of us old guys scratch our heads. IIR, some of the 5.0 guys had massive oil consumption for 5-10K miles and it suddenly stopped. Which blows my mind as to how that happens, but apparently it did for many who posted on here.
Dennis' thread (denlem) was one that kept using oil a long time but showed when he finally went on a long freeway trip on vaca and got it good and hot, it finally quit using oil (I'm guessing he's a Boston area city dweller and is stuck in traffic mostly, being afraid of guns and box cutters. lol).
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Yes I remember some of those, but IIRC, that was moreso guys that were afraid to drive it to redline and thought it was better to drive like old ladies.
Dennis' thread (denlem) was one that kept using oil a long time but showed when he finally went on a long freeway trip on vaca and got it good and hot, it finally quit using oil (I'm guessing he's a Boston area city dweller and is stuck in traffic mostly, being afraid of guns and box cutters. lol).
Dennis' thread (denlem) was one that kept using oil a long time but showed when he finally went on a long freeway trip on vaca and got it good and hot, it finally quit using oil (I'm guessing he's a Boston area city dweller and is stuck in traffic mostly, being afraid of guns and box cutters. lol).
What worries me about these 5.0 motors using oil is that the dealers usually tell them "its normal, its within specs". **** that, maybe its because I'm old school, but a new car using a quart of oil every 900 miles is not ****ing normal (and IIRC that is what dealers were telling people was normal consumption, it had to use more than that to be a problem according to Ford, HUH? )
My 500 hasn't used any oil after 4 years and 8K miles and its blown and I hammer the **** out of it on a regular basis. If it used a quart of oil every 1000 miles (hell, if it used a quart between changes at this early stage) I would be raising some hell.
But I remember my dad saying in the 60's & 70's "if it isn't using a qt/1000, you're not getting enough upper cylinder lubrication!". Old school. lol

And somewhere along his 40 yr career with Moog, they made and sold piston rings.
Last edited by cdynaco; Jan 24, 2015 at 01:00 AM.
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We built a 406 SBC with aluminum heads, big valves, massive cam, bullet proof bottom end, high end parts, oil pump, etc, one time. It had so much oil pressure that we had trouble adjusting the roller rocker arms because it was literally spraying oil 6 feet in the air out of the engine compartment all over us with the valve covers off because of the deep sump pan and hi volume Melling pump.
That motor was on the ragged edge, it was a monster and would turn RPMS like no other 400 based SBC I've ever seen. But it stayed together and you could drive it every day, had A/C and the whole nine yards, run the **** out of it on the strip, and it never used more than a half pint of oil between 3K mile changes.
Me and friends have built 327 SBC motors that would turn 8K rpms all day and never use oil like that. And that's saying something for a Chevy motor, everyone knows they drink oil in stock form, lol. A brand new 5.0 should not use anything.
Last edited by Rather B.Blown; Jan 24, 2015 at 01:25 AM.
I'll just leave this video here, basically before the shortblock replacement I noticed fluctuations in rpm, coworker said cylinder failure does contribute to rpm fluctuations so I think this was another sign
Old shortblock rpm fluctuations:
Old shortblock rpm fluctuations:
okay so the way home today, i went to 5k rpm before shifting, then all of a sudden the check engine light started flashing while the engine lost front-end power and began botchy accleration..after a mile it went away and drove like normal
edit: it felt like being is 6th gear but going 30mph

edit: it felt like being is 6th gear but going 30mph
Last edited by HizliBullet; Jan 24, 2015 at 09:34 PM.
I had a check engine light come on once on my winter car. Waited 5 freaking hours at the Chrysler dealership for them to finally get around to it. It wasn't 'stored' so they have no clue. Hasn't happened again after like 10k miles and a year+.
Last edited by cdynaco; Jan 24, 2015 at 11:11 PM.
I haven't read all of this thread, just the couple of pages after the initial post.
I had a 2012 GT, it consumed a **** load of oil in the 1st 2000 miles. I checked it and put oil in, twice. After 5000 miles it stopped consuming oil. All good, no problems.
I now have a 1014 GT, looking at the stick, no problem I still changed the oil at 5000 miles. For the 2014 GT, the oil change interval is 10,000 miles.
Bottom line, check your oil.
I had a 2012 GT, it consumed a **** load of oil in the 1st 2000 miles. I checked it and put oil in, twice. After 5000 miles it stopped consuming oil. All good, no problems.
I now have a 1014 GT, looking at the stick, no problem I still changed the oil at 5000 miles. For the 2014 GT, the oil change interval is 10,000 miles.
Bottom line, check your oil.
I haven't read all of this thread, just the couple of pages after the initial post.
I had a 2012 GT, it consumed a **** load of oil in the 1st 2000 miles. I checked it and put oil in, twice. After 5000 miles it stopped consuming oil. All good, no problems.
I now have a 1014 GT, looking at the stick, no problem I still changed the oil at 5000 miles. For the 2014 GT, the oil change interval is 10,000 miles.
Bottom line, check your oil.
I had a 2012 GT, it consumed a **** load of oil in the 1st 2000 miles. I checked it and put oil in, twice. After 5000 miles it stopped consuming oil. All good, no problems.
I now have a 1014 GT, looking at the stick, no problem I still changed the oil at 5000 miles. For the 2014 GT, the oil change interval is 10,000 miles.
Bottom line, check your oil.
As you probably know they discontinued the oil squirters for 13 forward, went with coated pistons, and revised oil control rings. More as a response to #8 piston failures but perhaps also excessive oil consumption that was reported.
Or a complete rpm/engine cut-off? (A complete cut-off would make me think electrical. Coil On Plugs? Battery terminal? Loose ground strap?)
Was the engine partially firing/still running but losing power? (Makes me think fuel relating. Or a sensor controlling fuel system.)
Or a complete rpm/engine cut-off? (A complete cut-off would make me think electrical. Coil On Plugs? Battery terminal? Loose ground strap?)

Or a complete rpm/engine cut-off? (A complete cut-off would make me think electrical. Coil On Plugs? Battery terminal? Loose ground strap?)

Check engine light problem:
maybe the dealer didn't perform the Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction procedure or in layman's term the "crank sensor relearn"
if the tone ring is moved this needs to be done, this happens when the clutch is removed
if the tone ring is moved this needs to be done, this happens when the clutch is removed


