Hi there. it looks like a few people have added a sub or subs to their cars. I'm looking to add a sub or two subs and an amp to my Shaker 500 system. I'm not looking to swap the HU at this time.

Apart from learning that it can be done; What amps (boxes) fit and what did you end up going with?

I like JL Audio, but I'm at a loss as to which box would be best?

thanks!

 

What's your budget?

 

1000.00 or less.

I have a convertible, I was looking into the JL Stealthbox, but it doesn't fit in a 'vert...!

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers,
Paul.

 

Should be no problem to hit that budget point. I would go with having a custom box made by a local shop. Anyone good with fiberglass and math can build you a "stealth" box for your 'vert. Buy the JL driver and amp separately, and you're in business!

 

Thanks for the advice!

 

I run an Alpine SBR 8" sub powered with and Alpine MRX-M55 (350 watts). You have to hear this little sub to believe it! I have it in the right rear of the trunk.

 

You could replace the door sub amp with a small aftermarket unit to fit in the same location, and replace the 8" door subs with 6.5" on adapters. You could have better bass (without a sub in the trunk) and a stock appearing installation that uses the factory grills and trim rings.

 

When the warm weather gets here, I will be trying CDT Audio QES-680 on adapters with my Arc Audio KS Mini 125.2 (75W @ 4 ohms) which is already installed in the stock door amp location. I am hoping this is the answer for good bass in the car without a sub in the trunk. We'll see.

 

i put in a 12 inch L3 and kicker DX500.1 amp in a generic ported box. it sounded good it made my driver side mirror fall off and shatter and made my rear view mirror rattle like crazy so i took it out. needless to say it was too loud for a little car like a mustang imo.

 

I bought a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300 "12 powered sub, plus a pair of Infinity Kappa 682's for the doors.
This years long a$$ winter is making me antsy. Can't wait to install them, when some decent weather arrives!

 

I have two Rockford Fosgate 10's. I kept the stock head unit and used a line out converter for the signal.

 

First, you will need a line output converter if you are not using a head unit. That will transform your speaker-level outputs into line-level inputs that an amp can take (unless you buy an amp that accepts speaker-level inputs).


FWIW, I went with one 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect sub in a custom MDF box -- cost me $250 for the sub and I think $75-100 for the box. For the amp, I went with a JL 250/1 amp (I think I paid $150 used for it) and the combo sounds amazing, very detailed but will rattle the car if you want.


I paired this with 2 JL Audio 8w1v2 subs in the doors ($150/pair) with an Xtant 302a amp ($250 used) and they sound fantastic. I had to cut the inside of the door panels a little because even though the magnets are technically shallow enough, the basket is so large that it hit the waveguide thing in the door panels.


That puts you right at $1,000 by the time you add in sound deadener and wiring. Please get some sound deadener. Don't be that guy.

 

Im looking into a Pioneer shallow mount 12' Subwoofer and an Alpine 500w mono block class D amp to round out the sound and add some low end to my radio. I have had good experience with this kind of setup before.