Coyote5-0

How should I route the sub wire?

Joeywhat

What sub wire? Amp to sub? Power to amp? Signal to amp? Remote signal?

Coyote5-0

Don't you have to run a wire to power a subwoofer?

Joeywhat

A sub woofer is just a large speaker. It requires an amplifier just like any other speaker. Your stock stereo does that for the speakers, it will NOT be enough power for a sub.

If you get a powered sub it still applies, but the amp is built in. You'll have power and signal wires going to the unit. They will be run differently. There will also likely be a remote wire, to turn the amp on and off with your stereo.

Coyote5-0

Yeah, so I'll have to pull up the carpet and everything to run a wire from the fuse panel to the sub in the trunk? Just wanted to know what path people run the wires and how much stuff I'll have to tear out

Joeywhat

Depends how well you want to hide it. You should be able to run it under the trim pieces to hide just about the entire run. Just tuck it in where it meets the carpet so you're not pulling a bunch of panels.

Do NOT run power and signal together.

Joeywhat

For instance, you can run under the trunk mat, under the rear seat, around to the outside trim panels in the rear. From there follow under the door sill panel and the kick panel and into the engine bay or back of the radio from there. You can also pull carpet but that would be a big pain and I don't think you'd see any exposed wires using the trim.

Coyote5-0

does anyone have any pictures of this? I guess I could do a dreaded forum search haha. I haven't seen the interior of my car in about a week due to this garbage weather, so I'm trying to picture how I would route the wires without pulling up carpet and such

Joeywhat

No pictures, but the vertical panels and door sills all just rest on the carpet. Lift up each section just enough to stuff the wire inside, and move on down the line. You MIGHT have to actually remove the sill to get the wires under but I think you can do it without. You can run them inside the rear panels right from the trunk, the seat should hide everything from that point.

Blue Notch

Search button is your friend. This thread has a lot of useful information. I referenced it many times when I was working on mine.

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...s-data-521961/

K.A.I.N

The only things I removed when installing an amp/sub in the trunk are the passenger front fender splash guard, rear seat bottoms and trunk mat. I ran an 8 AWG power cable through the grommet in the passenger footwell, behind the kick panel, under the door sills, and then to the trunk. The signal wires I ran on the driver's side, same method. I have the Shaker, which puts the amp above the driver kick panel. You don't want to run your signal and power wires in parallel because of interference; if you need to cross them, do it once and at a 90 degree angle.

05PRMTX

I have a whole thread somewhere of my audio intall....
Here you go
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...mplete-535543/

Shipey

I'd install Focal Integration Series (ISC, I think they are called) in the doors because they are very efficient and work well with the stock head unit. They sound great, and for me were an improvement over Boston Acoustic and Pioneer. A powered JL Audio sub in the trunk should give you what your are looking for, IMO.

maverick1125

Here is a suggestion that you can try and it's free and doesn't require any wiring.

What I did was I found a free app while searching for an "equalizer" on my cell phone The one I found has a bass booster and an equalizer so you can adjust the sound to your liking and add however much more bass you want. While playing Pandora using bluetooth the base stereo sounds great because the app actually adds the bass you are looking for and the equalizer can adjust the ranges so you can fit it to however you like.

Try it out. It's free and only takes the time to set it up on your cell phone