I have the Shaker 500 and will be installing the JL Audio Stealthbox and Alpine PDX-M6 mono amp. I also purchased a LC2i line out converter (LOC) because I do not want to replace the factory head unit. The tech at Crutchfield stated I should tap into the rear deck speakers at either the Shaker amp output (located above driver kickpanel) or at the rear speakers themselves...it does not matter. He stated the rear speakers produce a good range and the Alpine amp would filter for the lows. From reading other forums, it sounds like the rear speakers are not good to tap into because they are plain ol' crap.

Does anyone have a definitive answer with good reasoning on what should be tapped into...the rear speakers, the subs in the doors, or the door speakers?

 

The crutch field tech is correct. Rear would be fine. It's still a full range source. The amp has a built in crossover. Set the low pass filter to below 90 hertz and it will be fine. The quality of the rear speaker doesn't matter. The source range is what matters to the amp.

 

Yep, you can use the rear speakers which will probably be the easiest to get at anyway.

Let us know how this works for you. I have the stealthbox in my 2013, but i went with a 5-channel that has a 300-Watt RMS Mono output going to the stealth box. With some music, i feel that it is enough to the sub, but then with other styles i feel that it needs to be louder. So i am debating daisy chaining a dedicated Class D amp for it, or just swapping it out for a more powerful 5 channel, or leaving it as is.

 

What amp do you have? Also, what speakers/ what is the rest of the system?

 

I know this might be a bit late, but if you have a shaker radio, you can tap right into the pre-amp output on the head unit. It's connector C290B and it has all the pins you need. Enable , + , - , and Shield. There is one set for front (shaker 500) and one set for rear (shaker 1000). 8 pins total.

Did this on my sub install and it works beautiful. Clean wiring (no LOC) and the amp isn't running unless my radio is on.

(go to page 3 of 13)
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=710&viewfil...Navigation.pdf

 

So no bass roll off? I want a clean install and don't want to buy a LOC if I don't need to. The other threads all complain of roll off though. I know my way around electronics and like a good clear sound, but I'm no audiophile. Just want some more bass.

And dumb question of the day...where do the rear speakers hook up in the diagram?

Thanks!

 

If I could make a suggestion. PAC AOEM-FRD24. I use this in my car. No tapping any wires. You just plug into the back of the radio, then plug the harness into the other end. NO tapping or cutting any wires and you get front and rear RCA's. Unless you are going with an active LOC like the AudioControl devices that eliminate bass roll off that's how I did it and it works well for me. I got mine for like $34 on Ebay.

 

Oh and for the roll off issue I use a Bass Epicenter made by Soundstream. It works well but aftermarket head units still have a better bass range. I haven't used any of the AudioControl units so I have nothing to compare it to except stock but it is way better than stock.

 

Finally got mine installed. Pioneer 12" SVC running 400W RMS. More bass than I'll ever need and it sounds great. Thanks for the tips guys! Thanks to evil cart man as well his walkthrough had some great pictures and explanations.

 

Thats great advice , any idea if the PAC AOEM-FRD24 will be compatible with my 2013 mustang . I checked on ebay and but seems like its only compatible with 05-10 mustangs