'10-14 Interior and Audio Place to discuss 2010-2014 interior and audio type modifications.

Adding the OEM nav

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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 05:04 PM
  #41  
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I am not totally sure on the price, as I didn't buy it. Try Partscheap.

The wrecker isn't including it for you?

And did you get the harness from me?
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 05:05 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jim010
I am not totally sure on the price, as I didn't buy it. Try Partscheap.

The wrecker isn't including it for you?

And did you get the harness from me?
no it wasn't included....

and still haven't gotten the harness! i keep waiting for it at home!
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #43  
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It can ~ 12 business days.

You got the tracking number, right?
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 05:11 PM
  #44  
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Yeah, it has said that it was processing at Edmonton twice so I am getting a little confused.
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 09:39 PM
  #45  
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In case my reply gets lost, I'll give the instructions on the OEM amp wiring here.

Remember to take off the door sills, kick panels and lower rear seat cushion.

Whenever the diagrams called for twisted wires, I twisted them. I used monster cable from the amp to the speakers.

From connector C210 big connector behind passenger kick panel closest to the door) to connector C4364A on the amp using shielded 4 twisted pair cable (can use the cable I sent you):
C210 to C4364A
pin 1 = shield wire (drain wire)
pin 11 to pin 8
pin 12 to pin 4
pin 13 to pin 6
pin 14 to pin 2
pin 23 (need male pin inserted) to pin 7
pin 24 (need male pin inserted) to pin 3
pin 25 (need male pin inserted) to pin 5
pin 26 (need male pin inserted) to pin 1

C290 to connector C4364B on the amp (different from C4364A):
C290 to C4364B
pin 15 to pin 9

C4364B to connector C2280D on SJB:
C4364B to C2280D
pin 1 to pin 3 (will need large female pin inserted)

C4364B to driver rear speaker connector C484
C4364B to C484
pin 12 to pin 1
pin 5 to pin 2

C4364B to passenger rear speaker connector C485
C4364B to C485
pin 10 to pin 1
pin 3 to pin 2

C4364B to ground at G401 behind the rear trunk panel. Ground located beside passenger taillight
C4364B to G401
pin 7 to ground

C4364B to driver front speaker
No access to the connector here. You will have to splice into the wire. Will be trickey. Look underneath the dash for the bundles of wires along the top of the of the dash. Peel back the tape. Look for a twisted pair of wires in that bundle. The colours of the twisted wires will be white and white with a brown stripe. The wires will disappear into the side of the car, so cut the twisted wires a good distance from the side so you have enough length to work with to splice the new wires from the amp to. You want to splice to the wires leading into the side of the car.
C4364B to driver side speaker
pin 13 to wire white
pin 6 to wire white with brown stripe

C4364B to passenger front speaker
No access to the connector here either. You will have to splice into the wire as before. Look underneath the dash for the bundles of wires along the top of the of the dash again, this time on the passenger side. Peel back the tape. Look for a twisted pair of wires in that bundle. The colours of the twisted wires will be white with a purple stripe and white with an orange stripe. The wires will disappear into the side of the car as before, so cut the twisted wires a good distance from the side so you have enough length to work with to splice the new wires from the amp to. You want to splice to the wires leading into the side of the car.
C4364B to passenger side speaker
pin 11 to wire white with purple stripe
pin 4 to wire white with orange stripe

Last edited by jim010; Feb 3, 2013 at 09:53 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #46  
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This all makes sense now! 1 more thing.. Where does the drain wire go? It shows it attaching to a shield in the diagram..

Also, how did you remove the old pins from the wiring harness connectors?

Last edited by 10MustangGT; Feb 4, 2013 at 03:28 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 04:56 PM
  #47  
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The drain wire is only connected at Connector C210. It does not go anywhere else. The shield is the metal foil covering the wraps around the 4 twisted wires. It cuts interference from other wires, and also reduces interference from those wires to others.

The pins are pressed into the plug and held in there with a tab. Press the tab down inside the slot and pull the pin out from the back. You shouldn't have to be removing any pins, though - only adding.

Last edited by jim010; Feb 4, 2013 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 10:08 PM
  #48  
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Just heard from 10MustangGT.

Another successful retrofit of the OEM nav. That makes 3 people.

Anyone else doing this?
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 09:20 AM
  #49  
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I got it all done! Everything works perfect and i LOVE it! I have an amp bracket to sell if anyone needs it. I will sell it below Tousley cost.

I will post pictures at a later date. I recommend removing the entire dash, and not just the dash pieces. It will save you some time and make things much easier.
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 09:24 AM
  #50  
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Oh well .. wish I knew this before trading in my Supercharged 2010 GT ...
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 08:21 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by dmhines
Oh well .. wish I knew this before trading in my Supercharged 2010 GT ...
And that awesome sunset gold color!
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 08:26 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by jim010
Just heard from 10MustangGT.

Another successful retrofit of the OEM nav. That makes 3 people.

Anyone else doing this?
I'll be doing it as soon as i find the parts!!

Any leads are appreciated!
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 08:38 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by zeroaviation

I'll be doing it as soon as i find the parts!!

Any leads are appreciated!
i have an amp bracket that i could sell you!
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by 10MustangGT
i have an amp bracket that i could sell you!
Thanks! But I'm gonna go aftermarket... Dont wanna deal with all of that headache!

ACM, Screen, Bezel Ordered! It was a tough find, $900 for all three. A little high, but i'm impatient Next up i'm going to find the main harness...

I'm going to do the best I can to do a write up on this with pictures.

-Matt
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 02:21 PM
  #55  
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Has anyone tried the Siruis link or Radio who has done this swap?
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 03:05 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by zeroaviation
Has anyone tried the Siruis link or Radio who has done this swap?
good question
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #57  
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You will need a couple of extra cables for those to get them to work. The radio and Sirius work fine one you have them hooked up. They are not part of the main dash harness. I think you can reuse the cables off of the old harness, if I remember right.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 03:34 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by jim010
You will need a couple of extra cables for those to get them to work. The radio and Sirius work fine one you have them hooked up. They are not part of the main dash harness. I think you can reuse the cables off of the old harness, if I remember right.
Excellent. I will give it a go.

All other parts in your listing have been ordered. I'm in it at $1300 for everything.
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #59  
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Let me know if you run into problems, but it really is just plug and play. It just happens to be a lot of plugs ...
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Old Apr 12, 2013 | 07:00 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by jim010
First, your list of parts and why you need them:



sun load sensor ($20) - DG9Z 13A018 A. Don't know what this enables.
The sunload sensor is used on vehicles with automatic climate control systems to compensate for the amount of solar radiative strength coming in through the windshield to help the HVAC control module to apply the right amount of compressor duty cycle and blower speed to compensate for the additional heat produced by the sun's rays.
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