3M CF Vinyl interior wrapping
1/23/12, 05:25 PM
#22
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Hytek
Oh I didn't see one 24 wide. I'll have to check. Splitters would look good with cf. You think it'll hold up with the weather?
1/23/12, 07:29 PM
#25
Shelby GT350 Member
Originally Posted by LEwis26
Beats paying 450 for the trucarbon ones. Although they would match my trucarbon splash guards.
1/23/12, 07:36 PM
#26
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Hytek
I've always liked those but they're so dang expensive. Do you have the front and rear?
They definitely keep my rockers and rear clip cleaner too. They look good and go with my black and white theme on my car.
1/23/12, 08:04 PM
#27
Shelby GT350 Member
Originally Posted by LEwis26
Yup. They protect so much more than the gt500's too. Those are worthless. It was $200 well spend IMO.
They definitely keep my rockers and rear clip cleaner too. They look good and go with my black and white theme on my car.
1/28/12, 11:34 AM
#28
Looks great, guys! I've been mulling doing some kind of dash kit, but couldn't really find one with the pieces that I want or with the right finish. I am so doing this. Love that dark cf look.
2/15/12, 12:23 AM
#31
Shelby GT350 Member
I just spent the last hour trying to line up the wrap and I'm wondering about where to cut it. Mike, you sir have patience my man. I either don't have enough, or enough beer....one or the other. Dang ADD getting in the way. Did you lay the wrap over the pieces first and heat it until it started forming to it or cut it to fit first? I have a feeling I'm doing it bass akwards.
Edit: I think I answered my own question. Lesson learned is a little heat allows it to form to the piece. Too much burns it.
Edit: I think I answered my own question. Lesson learned is a little heat allows it to form to the piece. Too much burns it.
Last edited by Hytek; 2/15/12 at 01:22 AM.
2/15/12, 08:26 AM
#32
I've been working with the stuff this week so let me share with you what I've learned. If you can remove the part(s) you're working with, you may want to consider just wrapping the item to fit, by cutting the wrap a little larger than needed, finding a good starting point to stick the wrap to the piece and then trimming it when you're done. For parts with simple shapes, like rectangles and circles, and for those parts you can't remove, consider making a stencil. I just took a piece of paper, traced over the part, cut it out, matched the stencil to the part, retraced, made a new stencil, rematched, etc., until it was just right. Takes a little extra work, but might save you some time in the long run. If it's a very simple shape and you have the tools, you could create a stencil on your PC by measuring the part and maybe using a picture as a background guide, but I found tracing took less time for anything beyond very simple shapes.
When ready to apply, start with the most difficult section first. If there is a steep curve or something, try to stick the wrap to the curve and then stretch the wrap around the rest of the piece from there, by slowly heating and stretching it. It's easier than trying to do a difficult section at the end of the job when you've already got the wrap stretched pretty well. Creases and wrinkles are difficult to avoid at that point. Note that if you have a "window" of any kind in the wrap, however, you'll probably want to start there instead. Otherwise, once you start heating and stretching, that "window" that you've cut into the wrap will start to become misshapen. In some cases, you might be able to stick the "window" section and a difficult section down at once and then stretch the wrap around those areas, but take your time so that you don't make any creases. For edges, keep pulling on the edge of the wrap to slowly stretch it out, to remove any wrinkles. It definitely takes some patience and planning.
I'll also mention that if you order any adhesive promoter, treat it like gold! I ordered a pen stick which lasted all of 2 minutes before it completely dried up. Granted I overdid the first application, but be warned that the stuff goes fast. If you're doing a whole interior, I'd recommend picking up a small can off of eBay for like $15. I couldn't find any locally and ended up using a medium stick/thickness 3M spray-on can, also used for carpets. It's not too bad if you smooth it out after spraying, but can give you some bubbles if you're not careful. Regardless of what you use, you can probably go easy on the promoter in the middle sections, but a little heavier on the edges, to avoid peeling. If you can wrap completely around the piece, great; otherwise, try to tuck the edges of the wrap into the part's creases, if applicable.
Oh and I used a hair dryer on hot temp w/ low fan, keeping it about 1/2 a foot to a foot away, as needed. Didn't burn anything but I'm sure it can be done and probably pretty quickly with a heat gun. My wife's hair dryer was plenty hot enough. Hope this helps.
P.S. When cleaning your parts, use no more than 50/50 alcohol and don't apply it directly to the part, but rather to a towel first. Applying it directly may leave streaks and straight isopropyl will strip the finish off your parts.
When ready to apply, start with the most difficult section first. If there is a steep curve or something, try to stick the wrap to the curve and then stretch the wrap around the rest of the piece from there, by slowly heating and stretching it. It's easier than trying to do a difficult section at the end of the job when you've already got the wrap stretched pretty well. Creases and wrinkles are difficult to avoid at that point. Note that if you have a "window" of any kind in the wrap, however, you'll probably want to start there instead. Otherwise, once you start heating and stretching, that "window" that you've cut into the wrap will start to become misshapen. In some cases, you might be able to stick the "window" section and a difficult section down at once and then stretch the wrap around those areas, but take your time so that you don't make any creases. For edges, keep pulling on the edge of the wrap to slowly stretch it out, to remove any wrinkles. It definitely takes some patience and planning.
I'll also mention that if you order any adhesive promoter, treat it like gold! I ordered a pen stick which lasted all of 2 minutes before it completely dried up. Granted I overdid the first application, but be warned that the stuff goes fast. If you're doing a whole interior, I'd recommend picking up a small can off of eBay for like $15. I couldn't find any locally and ended up using a medium stick/thickness 3M spray-on can, also used for carpets. It's not too bad if you smooth it out after spraying, but can give you some bubbles if you're not careful. Regardless of what you use, you can probably go easy on the promoter in the middle sections, but a little heavier on the edges, to avoid peeling. If you can wrap completely around the piece, great; otherwise, try to tuck the edges of the wrap into the part's creases, if applicable.
Oh and I used a hair dryer on hot temp w/ low fan, keeping it about 1/2 a foot to a foot away, as needed. Didn't burn anything but I'm sure it can be done and probably pretty quickly with a heat gun. My wife's hair dryer was plenty hot enough. Hope this helps.
P.S. When cleaning your parts, use no more than 50/50 alcohol and don't apply it directly to the part, but rather to a towel first. Applying it directly may leave streaks and straight isopropyl will strip the finish off your parts.
Last edited by wheelman; 2/15/12 at 09:00 AM. Reason: P.S.
2/15/12, 10:15 AM
#33
Shelby GT350 Member
Originally Posted by wheelman
I've been working with the stuff this week so let me share with you what I've learned. If you can remove the part(s) you're working with, you may want to consider just wrapping the item to fit, by cutting the wrap a little larger than needed, finding a good starting point to stick the wrap to the piece and then trimming it when you're done. For parts with simple shapes, like rectangles and circles, and for those parts you can't remove, consider making a stencil. I just took a piece of paper, traced over the part, cut it out, matched the stencil to the part, retraced, made a new stencil, rematched, etc., until it was just right. Takes a little extra work, but might save you some time in the long run. If it's a very simple shape and you have the tools, you could create a stencil on your PC by measuring the part and maybe using a picture as a background guide, but I found tracing took less time for anything beyond very simple shapes.
When ready to apply, start with the most difficult section first. If there is a steep curve or something, try to stick the wrap to the curve and then stretch the wrap around the rest of the piece from there, by slowly heating and stretching it. It's easier than trying to do a difficult section at the end of the job when you've already got the wrap stretched pretty well. Creases and wrinkles are difficult to avoid at that point. Note that if you have a "window" of any kind in the wrap, however, you'll probably want to start there instead. Otherwise, once you start heating and stretching, that "window" that you've cut into the wrap will start to become misshapen. In some cases, you might be able to stick the "window" section and a difficult section down at once and then stretch the wrap around those areas, but take your time so that you don't make any creases. For edges, keep pulling on the edge of the wrap to slowly stretch it out, to remove any wrinkles. It definitely takes some patience and planning.
I'll also mention that if you order any adhesive promoter, treat it like gold! I ordered a pen stick which lasted all of 2 minutes before it completely dried up. Granted I overdid the first application, but be warned that the stuff goes fast. If you're doing a whole interior, I'd recommend picking up a small can off of eBay for like $15. I couldn't find any locally and ended up using a medium stick/thickness 3M spray-on can, also used for carpets. It's not too bad if you smooth it out after spraying, but can give you some bubbles if you're not careful. Regardless of what you use, you can probably go easy on the promoter in the middle sections, but a little heavier on the edges, to avoid peeling. If you can wrap completely around the piece, great; otherwise, try to tuck the edges of the wrap into the part's creases, if applicable.
Oh and I used a hair dryer on hot temp w/ low fan, keeping it about 1/2 a foot to a foot away, as needed. Didn't burn anything but I'm sure it can be done and probably pretty quickly with a heat gun. My wife's hair dryer was plenty hot enough. Hope this helps.
P.S. When cleaning your parts, use no more than 50/50 alcohol and don't apply it directly to the part, but rather to a towel first. Applying it directly may leave streaks and straight isopropyl will strip the finish off your parts.
When ready to apply, start with the most difficult section first. If there is a steep curve or something, try to stick the wrap to the curve and then stretch the wrap around the rest of the piece from there, by slowly heating and stretching it. It's easier than trying to do a difficult section at the end of the job when you've already got the wrap stretched pretty well. Creases and wrinkles are difficult to avoid at that point. Note that if you have a "window" of any kind in the wrap, however, you'll probably want to start there instead. Otherwise, once you start heating and stretching, that "window" that you've cut into the wrap will start to become misshapen. In some cases, you might be able to stick the "window" section and a difficult section down at once and then stretch the wrap around those areas, but take your time so that you don't make any creases. For edges, keep pulling on the edge of the wrap to slowly stretch it out, to remove any wrinkles. It definitely takes some patience and planning.
I'll also mention that if you order any adhesive promoter, treat it like gold! I ordered a pen stick which lasted all of 2 minutes before it completely dried up. Granted I overdid the first application, but be warned that the stuff goes fast. If you're doing a whole interior, I'd recommend picking up a small can off of eBay for like $15. I couldn't find any locally and ended up using a medium stick/thickness 3M spray-on can, also used for carpets. It's not too bad if you smooth it out after spraying, but can give you some bubbles if you're not careful. Regardless of what you use, you can probably go easy on the promoter in the middle sections, but a little heavier on the edges, to avoid peeling. If you can wrap completely around the piece, great; otherwise, try to tuck the edges of the wrap into the part's creases, if applicable.
Oh and I used a hair dryer on hot temp w/ low fan, keeping it about 1/2 a foot to a foot away, as needed. Didn't burn anything but I'm sure it can be done and probably pretty quickly with a heat gun. My wife's hair dryer was plenty hot enough. Hope this helps.
P.S. When cleaning your parts, use no more than 50/50 alcohol and don't apply it directly to the part, but rather to a towel first. Applying it directly may leave streaks and straight isopropyl will strip the finish off your parts.
2/15/12, 11:13 AM
#34
BTW, I just got off the phone with a 3M graphic tech and he confirmed for me that the Di-NOC stuff is rated for interior only, but the Scotchprint (1080) is rated for about 5 years of exterior use. I asked him about any possible effects of adhesive/promoter on auto paint, but just got the company line about testing an inconspicuous part. And do what? Wait 5 years to see what happens?...lol...I suppose if I was debating about painting a part, like a roof, and used the Scotchguard, but ended up with some paint damage, I would've had to paint the roof anyway if I wanted to make a change without the Scotchguard and if I'm switching back, it'd be one less layer of paint and both the same color...if that makes any sense.
2/15/12, 12:03 PM
#35
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
John,
Follow wheelmans advice.
I usually cut the parts oversized, and trimmed afterwards. I heated all surfaces with my heat gun before applying, and then used more heat in the tough curve areas. The worst place is the e-brake cutout. Requires a lot of careful heat and gentle stretching and placement.
Mine is in no way perfect, but most of the small creases are really hard to find unless pointed out.
Follow wheelmans advice.
I usually cut the parts oversized, and trimmed afterwards. I heated all surfaces with my heat gun before applying, and then used more heat in the tough curve areas. The worst place is the e-brake cutout. Requires a lot of careful heat and gentle stretching and placement.
Mine is in no way perfect, but most of the small creases are really hard to find unless pointed out.
2/15/12, 12:19 PM
#36
Shelby GT350 Member
Originally Posted by LEwis26
John,
Follow wheelmans advice.
I usually cut the parts oversized, and trimmed afterwards. I heated all surfaces with my heat gun before applying, and then used more heat in the tough curve areas. The worst place is the e-brake cutout. Requires a lot of careful heat and gentle stretching and placement.
Mine is in no way perfect, but most of the small creases are really hard to find unless pointed out.
Follow wheelmans advice.
I usually cut the parts oversized, and trimmed afterwards. I heated all surfaces with my heat gun before applying, and then used more heat in the tough curve areas. The worst place is the e-brake cutout. Requires a lot of careful heat and gentle stretching and placement.
Mine is in no way perfect, but most of the small creases are really hard to find unless pointed out.
2/15/12, 12:30 PM
#37
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2/15/12, 08:11 PM
#38
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Hytek
Ok cool thanks. How far away are you holding the heat gun in the difficult areas. My 1st attempt I melted the wrap at 6 inches away on low heat.
I had 2 little melt-throughs on the e brake area but it is on the outside bottom edge so you can barely see it.
2/18/12, 09:25 PM
#40
Shelby GT350 Member
Originally Posted by Jaysmtang
How hard is it to remove the dash pieces?