Ok. The small plug is for the subwoofer. But still, the Switch should go into the Sync module... for non-NAV cars. That's how my ACM was setup...

I was looking again at my harness. The only connector cut is the message center one (going to the clockspring)... i can fix that (but i guess with a base/non sync car that isn't used anyways). You want the harness? But you should use Jim's Sync module with it...

LEXiiON

 

I think I will take it. I think the 13 sync module isn't going to work. Not sure why. But it is what it is.

 

I'm not worried about the message center for now. I do plan on doing a lcd swap once you all work out the kinks.

 

Then, as it is already wired up for the LCD, you are good to go

By the way, if you have a 13 base, the LCD swap is a no brainer. New steering wheel switch plus the wire and you are good to go.

LEXiiON

 

I have a 10 base.

 

I think that's why I'm having so many issues with the sync, because it came from a 13

 

Oh ok. Well the wire harness should be snug then From a 10 premium wired for the LCD

In general the LCD cluster on a 10 works fine... It's just the gauges we need to fix and the ABS module...
And I have aftermarket boost and AFR we have to translate.

$75 for the harness and mirror...
That is my special offer for you

LEXiiON

 

lol ok. I will send you a pm.

 

Do you have the GPS module? If not I can put that in the box, too.

LEXiiON

 

You can use the black box from Redline Chips. That way you don't need to mess with programming.

 

I dont have one.

 

Ok cool.

 

I just got the mic to work. Still no buttons though. I wonder if the buttons have a different resistance that the 13s do.

 

Yeah I have the black box, but zero needs to adjust it for our 10's... It displays nothing, not even IAT...

LEXiiON

 

That might be true. Compare P/Ns if they come up on all
Models it is the same switch. If not the 13 is different

LEXiiON

 

they are the same.

 

Well I'm calling it a night its after midnight here. I mess with it some more after work tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Phone 507 ohms
OK 335 ohms
Voice is 52 ohms


I didn't try the sync module to see what it is on the wires. I ran out of light and time.

but looking at the diagram for the 13 switches is has them listed on it. I don't know enough to figure this out. But I do know they are not matching. If sync read resistance, then to me it looks like this maybe why my buttons are not workin. Can I add resistor in line to make it work? Any thoughts?

 

I may have to put the sync on hold for a bit. I had something wierd happen to my car today. I was turning right and I felt a rumble in the brake pedal. Then a loud clicking sound and it felt as if the one of the front brakes locked up on me. Then all my traction control lights came on and my car started to make that chiming sound as if the door was open. So I think it will be going to the shop.

 

I can't stop trying to figure this out. I looked at ford parts between a 2010 right hand switch and a 2013 right hand switch. I found that they have different motorcraft part numbers. The 2010 with audio is sw-6713. It is listed for $71.00. The 2013 redundant switch shares the same part number. But it is $31.00. It just says multifunction. The one that says audio has a motorcraft part number sw-6982 and is listed for $72.00. I did go and check to see if 2010, 11, and 12s share the same part number, and found that the do. I'm thinking that this is the reason why my buttons don't work. It makes me think that the resistance are different enough for sync not to read the input.

what do you all think