Gears question
#21
Thanks Gents,
- Ltndrvr, you were right. I did have a major glaring error despite my checking several times- it was 2500 at 70 mph not 75mph - the needles were in the same place every time but I was looking at 70mph (not 75) and 2500 RPM. I don't know why I had 75mph on the brain. I take an incorrect thought and run with it sometimes.
Now I see why it looked wrong against your calculations - duh (haha!)
The speed and tach needles are both kinda fat but the definitely looks 2500 at 70mph. I would trust your math over the instruments because my needle floats at 500 - 700 at idle.
The needle used to stay between 1000 and 2000 with most of my driving
and now it stays between 2000 and 3000 on the highway. It does not go below 2000 on the highway for me!
Interestingly, I loaded the S, P, and R tunes and I cannot honestly tell a difference between any of the tunes. The gears just have the car wound up like a top no matter what tune setting.
- Ltndrvr, you were right. I did have a major glaring error despite my checking several times- it was 2500 at 70 mph not 75mph - the needles were in the same place every time but I was looking at 70mph (not 75) and 2500 RPM. I don't know why I had 75mph on the brain. I take an incorrect thought and run with it sometimes.
Now I see why it looked wrong against your calculations - duh (haha!)
The speed and tach needles are both kinda fat but the definitely looks 2500 at 70mph. I would trust your math over the instruments because my needle floats at 500 - 700 at idle.
The needle used to stay between 1000 and 2000 with most of my driving
and now it stays between 2000 and 3000 on the highway. It does not go below 2000 on the highway for me!
Interestingly, I loaded the S, P, and R tunes and I cannot honestly tell a difference between any of the tunes. The gears just have the car wound up like a top no matter what tune setting.
Last edited by 08SGT1977; 1/24/11 at 06:11 PM.
#22
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Originally Posted by rmurad38
I posted this on another forum, here are the RPMs i got:
70mph-2250rpm
65mph-2000rpm
60mph-1750rpm
So yes, a bit of a change, but not too drastic, still very mellow if cruising on the freeway.
rmurad38
#23
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The a '02 SN95 uses much shorter tires so the RPM at a certain speed would be different than a S197 car.
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Originally Posted by Ltngdrvr
The a '02 SN95 uses much shorter tires so the RPM at a certain speed would be different than a S197 car.
#26
It definitely takes a hit on fuel mileage but I am very pleased because it accelerates very quickly and is still nice and quiet at 70 mph. I have heard people complain of 4.10 gears and excessive highway noise on other types of vehicles. I am not worried if I don't use first gear because my car is automatic transmission. I have no idea what gear I am in, it just goes.
Last edited by 08SGT1977; 1/24/11 at 06:23 PM.
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Originally Posted by 08SGT1977
It definitely takes a hit on fuel mileage but I am very pleased because it accelerates very quickly and is still nice and quiet at 70 mph. I have heard people complain of 4.10 gears and excessive highway noise on other types of vehicles. I am not worried if I don't use first gear because my car is automatic transmission. I have no idea what gear I am in, it just goes.
#28
Will there be a noticeable difference between 3.31 and 3.55? What about 3.31 and 3.73?
I'm hesistant because my clutch problems persist. Shifting into 2nd takes so much longer and it will still lurch, even with slipping the clutch a bit. If somehow Ford finds a fix and my shifting from 1st to 2nd is as smooth as the rest of my shifts, I'd like to go 3.73. I've read that 4.10 is excessive on the manual transmissions
I'm hesistant because my clutch problems persist. Shifting into 2nd takes so much longer and it will still lurch, even with slipping the clutch a bit. If somehow Ford finds a fix and my shifting from 1st to 2nd is as smooth as the rest of my shifts, I'd like to go 3.73. I've read that 4.10 is excessive on the manual transmissions
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Originally Posted by JimmyM
Will there be a noticeable difference between 3.31 and 3.55? What about 3.31 and 3.73?
I'm hesistant because my clutch problems persist. Shifting into 2nd takes so much longer and it will still lurch, even with slipping the clutch a bit. If somehow Ford finds a fix and my shifting from 1st to 2nd is as smooth as the rest of my shifts, I'd like to go 3.73. I've read that 4.10 is excessive on the manual transmissions
I'm hesistant because my clutch problems persist. Shifting into 2nd takes so much longer and it will still lurch, even with slipping the clutch a bit. If somehow Ford finds a fix and my shifting from 1st to 2nd is as smooth as the rest of my shifts, I'd like to go 3.73. I've read that 4.10 is excessive on the manual transmissions
#30
Hmm, idk whats going on with your clutch. What month was your mustang built in? Because the June models have had a big problem with their trannys's and drivelines or so ive heard. I would put 4.10's on a track car but 3.55 will get the job done. 3.73's are just tat xtra step up
I have 3.31 already. So if 3.55 will not be THAT huge of a difference, I'll probably just skip over it and go 3.73.
I don't know what wrong with my clutch either, but apparently a lot of people also experience it (both GT and V6)
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ng-thread.html
Last edited by JimmyM; 1/26/11 at 01:13 AM.
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Originally Posted by JimmyM
Mine was Job 2 and built some time in September
I have 3.31 already. So if 3.55 will not be THAT huge of a difference, I'll probably just skip over it and go 3.73.
I don't know what wrong with my clutch either, but apparently a lot of people also experience it (both GT and V6)
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ng-thread.html
![Wink](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Got a tune on em and **** even with an intake, exhaust, and a few other mods youll be blasted out like a rocket
#32
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Found this online
All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 or 20 miles you must let the differential cool for 30-40 minutes before proceeding. Drive 500 easy miles before towing. Tow for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and let the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. Change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.
All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 or 20 miles you must let the differential cool for 30-40 minutes before proceeding. Drive 500 easy miles before towing. Tow for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and let the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. Change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.
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