2012 Mustang Clutch Pedal Adjustment
#1
2012 Mustang Clutch Pedal Adjustment
It's getting harder and harder to start the car because I push the pedal down and wiggle and such to get it to crank. The clutch itself is catching at what should be a good height but I have room to spare. I can't just look at the mechanism so I'm not figuring it out, nothing about my car specifically is coming up when I do searches. So I'm just wondering how I might try the adjustment.
And if it's not that, what might it be? It just seems like I've been pushing harder and harder.
And if it's not that, what might it be? It just seems like I've been pushing harder and harder.
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Dauntless (6/20/18)
#3
I would say it could be anything, Since I seem to get results pushing harder and wiggling my first guess is the pedal height affecting the neutral switch. The key switch no longer chimes much when the door opens, it readily locks with the key in there most times, etc. So one other symptom that could prove relevant. First thing would be to adjust that pedal height, if it can be done.
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Dauntless (6/20/18)
#5
There is no clutch adjustment. It's a hydraulic clutch. It should always go down to the floor, and have good pedal feel. It could be that your brake fluid is done, and needs swapping out, if its not been done.
Have fun with the clutch line.. there's no bleeder screw for that. Here's that procedure:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=926&f=Clutch%...20Bleeding.pdf
Although that might not work as well because you aren't replacing the throwout bearing/slave cylinder or opening the lines up with that, so there is still gonna be some old fluid in the thing. Might need to get under the car and disconnect the clutch line so you can vacuum pump the stuff out of the throwout and the line then put it back together and do the procedure or the 50 pump thing. I have no idea why Ford didn't put in some sort of bleeder screw system to make this work better, but oh well. :shrug:
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Of course, that's assuming what you mean is the car won't start because the clutch is engaged. If it's that it doesn't even attempt to turn over without the wiggling and such, then it's the clutch safety switch being intermittent, and you'll just want to replace it.
I know this is for a Fox body, so the switch is different than what's in the 2005-2014. But the concept is the same, so you get the idea of what's going on. Also, here:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=934&f=Clutch%...linder.pdf&p=2
Looking at the [2] in the picture, follow the line from it to the mounting pin on the clutch lever. That line crosses the safety switch. That's the thing you need to replace. And compared to the Fox? Should be pretty easy... But I've said such before and been burned, so grains of salt here.
Also, there's no adjusting the switch engagement. It either works or it doesn't. Hence, you need to just replace the thing. Trying to work around it isn't going to work out well. They're under $25:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...y+switch,16665
Ford part number F5RZ11A152A
Hope that helps. Good luck!
Have fun with the clutch line.. there's no bleeder screw for that. Here's that procedure:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=926&f=Clutch%...20Bleeding.pdf
Although that might not work as well because you aren't replacing the throwout bearing/slave cylinder or opening the lines up with that, so there is still gonna be some old fluid in the thing. Might need to get under the car and disconnect the clutch line so you can vacuum pump the stuff out of the throwout and the line then put it back together and do the procedure or the 50 pump thing. I have no idea why Ford didn't put in some sort of bleeder screw system to make this work better, but oh well. :shrug:
---
Of course, that's assuming what you mean is the car won't start because the clutch is engaged. If it's that it doesn't even attempt to turn over without the wiggling and such, then it's the clutch safety switch being intermittent, and you'll just want to replace it.
I know this is for a Fox body, so the switch is different than what's in the 2005-2014. But the concept is the same, so you get the idea of what's going on. Also, here:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=934&f=Clutch%...linder.pdf&p=2
Looking at the [2] in the picture, follow the line from it to the mounting pin on the clutch lever. That line crosses the safety switch. That's the thing you need to replace. And compared to the Fox? Should be pretty easy... But I've said such before and been burned, so grains of salt here.
Also, there's no adjusting the switch engagement. It either works or it doesn't. Hence, you need to just replace the thing. Trying to work around it isn't going to work out well. They're under $25:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...y+switch,16665
Ford part number F5RZ11A152A
Hope that helps. Good luck!
Last edited by houtex; 6/20/18 at 12:05 AM. Reason: I keep misreading/understanding the question, and then fixing it. Sorry. :p
The following users liked this post:
Dauntless (6/20/18)
The following users liked this post:
Dauntless (6/20/18)
#7
The clutch itself seems just fine. I'm not sure what all they replaced under warranty but it had a problem and sat there for days waiting for one or more parts so it received a few. I'm hardly opposed to bypassing so much nonsense they put on cars these days, but I admit keeping the car from cranking while in gear is endearing, so I think I'd rather just change that. Cheap part, great. https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...-05156564.html I notice I search for info on replacing and more pops up on bypassing by just sticking a 10 amp fuse in there. I could at least try that to see if it starts better.
As for women liking the Mustang, I've seen no creepy old men looking it over at school, but a lot of college girls do even if it's just the basic V6.
As for women liking the Mustang, I've seen no creepy old men looking it over at school, but a lot of college girls do even if it's just the basic V6.
Last edited by Dauntless; 6/22/18 at 09:50 PM.
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