Thanks, RedCandy5.0. This kind of input is what we need...

 

LOL, Come on, your not reading my posts

1) The powers there, you saw it, so the tune now comes into play.
Cars don't lose the power on the street now do they. If your not faster by the equal amount the tune is off.
Load is changed, so throttle can be closed, timing pulled and tons more. Log it at the track, you'll see it with your own 2 eyes.
Just think about it, makes cense.
2) you went faster, period. But one run, two runs or more are not a test.
You need to get at least 3 equalruns and then do the swap and 3-4 more.

LOL,
Good luck guys, I need to get back to work.

 

There are a lot of variables...and I think all we care about is how they will perform in the real world.

For one thing (and commonly noted problem) is that dyno pulls are usually done with the hood open. 1/4 mile runs are typically not...unless you have the upgraded hood hinges

 

LOL, can't help myself.

Your one of those who think under hood heat is high and dynoing with the hood up is unfair, LOL.

Dude, stop fighting and research, listen, learn, test and think about it all.
Seriously, this is what we do.
Here's proof about under hood temps

 

"Comments have been disabled for this video."
Afraid of something?

I seem to recall that people believe that the air pressure benefit of an open hood is also one of the variables...which you guys didn't address...but the usual open hood question was just an example of how the dyno doesn't necessarily represent the real world.

I understand that you guys sell these things to put food on the table.
The rest of us have a choice and want to know the truth before spending our hard earned cash.

Those of us who might end up buying one certainly don't have to spend our cash with JLT so you might want to adjust your tone. Just sayin'.

So if the open hood is truly not a factor, it still begs the question why a lot of folks don't seem to find gains on the strip.

EDIT: FWIW, I am a past customer of JLT. I had a CAI on my 2009 GT and was happy with it.

 

Get a grip, Tucker. You're (n.b.) altogether too thin-skinned to be a world-class bloviator.

If I thought you were a lier (sic) I'd say so. From here it looks as if you're just a little short on reading and writing skills, and overdosed on Kool-Aid.

"Research" doesn't mean "Read everyone's opinions but just believe mine are facts". It means putting some science on the question and being skeptical about the results, not least about your own. You can't bully science.

To quote a sage of some repute, "... listen, learn, test and think about it all."

Half the harm that is done in this world
is due to people who want to feel important.
They don't mean to do harm - but the harm
does not interest them. Or they do not see it,
or they justify it because they are absorbed
in the endless struggle to think well of themselves.
--- T.S. Eliot

 

With all of this being said/debated, it seems to me that there still is no BEST aftermarket air intake out there for our cars... yet. It seems to me that Ford's stock air intake was well designed. Can it be improved? I'm sure it can be, but I don't think someone has done it quite yet. Airaid's OEM-like material(carbon fiber tube, optional) and removable insert is very well designed, but it does not seal completely to the hood or front of car... Steeda's offering is high quality and seals better to the hood and front of car, but must be tuned and metal parts may be less desirable for under hood temps... AEM and K&N have an enclosed filter box, but AEM uses a metal tube and K&N materials are questionable... JLT requires a tune and doesn't completely attach to the OEM air scoop... C&L has tune/no-tune options, but it doesn't completely attach to the OEM air scoop...

Do you think there is room for improvement for an aftermarket CAI?

 

The thing I'd like to see, and it might be the only almost-purely cosmetic thing I'd put under the hood, would be a major aftermarket supplier develop an intake tube that replaces the accordion-and-rubber thing the 5.0 comes with. And it might not really be workable without its own accommodation of engine/chassis motions. With a choice between sound-tube and plain, I think it would be a big seller.

 

You may want to do what nick bolli (grnenvy) did and just open up the airbox The airbox is good because it pulls cold air, but the restriction is the snorkel going up front IMO

 

Well, I installed everything. The car performs much better and sounds amazing with the o/r x pipe and cam tune. Th only issue I am having is the cam idle stalling all over and having a hard time settling in. It seems like it drops too low and gets stuck there after disengaging the clutch. It happens the most when backing up, pulling thru drive thrus, and running the a/c. I have contacted BAMA a few days ago. I am hoping to hear from them today. I will post a video as soon as the issue is resolved. I have tried the idle relearn, which made it worse. Any advice?

 

Since intake temperature is virtually the same, where does the extra power come from? Obviously from a reduction in flow restriction. C&L has a graph that illustrates this quite well. At WOT negative pressure is created between the throttle and air inlet. At peak torque there is a significant negative pressure of 23 inches of water with the stock system. With my Steeda CAI it is about 6 inches and it is likely that the similarly-sized JLT would be the same. That is the equivalent of eliminating 0.6 psi of negative boost.

 

Making your way around the internet tonight?

The power is from allowing the engine to breath easier. The same as it's been since the day of the combustion. easyier in easier out.

Thanks
Jay

 

Yes I was. I am a psychiatrist and I was on call last night. We admitted 12 patients. There was no point in my going to bed before 0200 since I knew the hospital would be calling me all night.