Watts Link
#3
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-w...d-mustang.html
Last edited by StangFreak; 10/25/10 at 06:23 PM.
#5
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i took my 05 to the track a few times
i had the fays2 watts link on it along with a bunch of other suspension mods. After the install the car definitly felt tighter in the turns and felt less like the rear was gunna slide out. definitly helps keep the traction even during turns.
I will be getting on for my 5.0 once it gets here. for the money i felt it was definitly worth it.
i had the fays2 watts link on it along with a bunch of other suspension mods. After the install the car definitly felt tighter in the turns and felt less like the rear was gunna slide out. definitly helps keep the traction even during turns.
I will be getting on for my 5.0 once it gets here. for the money i felt it was definitly worth it.
#7
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A Watts Link on a street driven Mustang is overkill IMO. Just get a decent suspension set up and a good adjustable panhard bar. Check out the FRPP kit or Steeda.
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-w...d-mustang.html
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-w...d-mustang.html
I sell a lot of Watts links, and I've never had someone tell me "eh, it's not any better".
#8
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^ +1, the watts link really helps settle the rear when it goes over bumps on the street. it makes it as close to an IRS as possible with the SRA, and for a reasonable price
#10
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A Panhard bar attaches to the body on one side, the axle on the other. As the body moves up and down that attachment point moves up and down, but the axle side does not. The PHB is a fixed length and that means the body moves laterally as it moves up and down. The roll center moves up and down and left and right as this happens. Also in hard cornering turning left pulls the right rear down, and turning right the right rear is pushed up away from the axle.
The Watts link (and there are various types, I prefer Fays2 and Steeda and they are all I sell) gets rid of all that weird geometry change and the jacking effects. The body moves straight up and straight down relative to the axle. The right rear isn't unloaded in hard cornering and you can get power down better. And the big perk..... the rear just isn't as nervous feeling. See 20115.0's post..... Very basically a Watts link is 2 short PHB with a balance bar in between. The lateral body control is still there like a PHB, but the propeller balances the forces and lets the body move vertically without the "swing" motion a PHB has.
Take a pen, hold it steady on one side and move the other up and down--you'll see how the PHB works.
Here is a pic of a Fays2 unit: http://www.stranoparts.com/data/images/p30718170733.jpg
And a Steeda unit:
http://www.stranoparts.com/data/images/p31028132345.jpg
The Watts link (and there are various types, I prefer Fays2 and Steeda and they are all I sell) gets rid of all that weird geometry change and the jacking effects. The body moves straight up and straight down relative to the axle. The right rear isn't unloaded in hard cornering and you can get power down better. And the big perk..... the rear just isn't as nervous feeling. See 20115.0's post..... Very basically a Watts link is 2 short PHB with a balance bar in between. The lateral body control is still there like a PHB, but the propeller balances the forces and lets the body move vertically without the "swing" motion a PHB has.
Take a pen, hold it steady on one side and move the other up and down--you'll see how the PHB works.
Here is a pic of a Fays2 unit: http://www.stranoparts.com/data/images/p30718170733.jpg
And a Steeda unit:
http://www.stranoparts.com/data/images/p31028132345.jpg
Last edited by sam strano; 10/27/10 at 01:37 PM.
#12
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#16
Sam, first of all, thank you for taking the time to answer all of our noobie questions
Why do people always recommend an adjustable PHB for people lowering their cars? Wouldn't it be more productive to just go for the Watts link instead?
Why do people always recommend an adjustable PHB for people lowering their cars? Wouldn't it be more productive to just go for the Watts link instead?
#17
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Quick fix for $100.... versus $1000 for a watts link
#18