Using Motorcraft 5W-50 Syn
7/5/13, 08:04 PM
#62
Shelby GT350 Member
That's right sat nights at Berlin tpk right? I have to make it out there soon. BBQ at home tomorrow with some friends otherwise I would try to head over. Perhaps next weekend
7/11/13, 02:46 PM
#63
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I know this thread is quite old, but I did want to add, I have tried boutique oils, well one. Royal purple, not impressed in the least. Not impressed with mobil either. I have tried both of the oils on my old 3v. I find they change the running characteristics of the 3v engine, in a bad way. Rougher running etc. Not to mention that I have never changed mobil oil on any car that didn't absolutely stink. My buddies use the stuff and I usually help them change the oil. It always feels grimy out of the pan and flows badly even warm, if you run mobil for more than 5k on any engine it will turn into black yougurt.
Personally with the 5.0 I went 5k with factory fill, and have been using what I ended up using on the 3v, which was Pennzoil platinum 5-20. I find the engine characteristics even compared to the factory fill are better. The engine is smother and quieter running. It also seems to run a touch cooler, based on the idiot gauge we have for engine temp. I have never bothering analyzing it. However my old car was picked up by a Canadian and restored after the crash. The car had been sitting for 6 months while he straightened out the chassis and replaced parts. He said the engine fired right up and ran better than new. So it wasn't in my head. He was very very pleased with the motor in that car. I have scoped my old engine, and running penzoil in there I could not see anything but a slight brown discoloration inside the engine.
Man I miss that car.
Also one thing to note, in 5k miles with the factory fill on the 5.0 I burned a quart of oil. With Pennzoil it does not burn an ounce. Could have been the break in period, then again it could have not. Yes I did check the oil when I bought it. had 17 miles on the odometer then. Was full.
Personally with the 5.0 I went 5k with factory fill, and have been using what I ended up using on the 3v, which was Pennzoil platinum 5-20. I find the engine characteristics even compared to the factory fill are better. The engine is smother and quieter running. It also seems to run a touch cooler, based on the idiot gauge we have for engine temp. I have never bothering analyzing it. However my old car was picked up by a Canadian and restored after the crash. The car had been sitting for 6 months while he straightened out the chassis and replaced parts. He said the engine fired right up and ran better than new. So it wasn't in my head. He was very very pleased with the motor in that car. I have scoped my old engine, and running penzoil in there I could not see anything but a slight brown discoloration inside the engine.
Man I miss that car.
Also one thing to note, in 5k miles with the factory fill on the 5.0 I burned a quart of oil. With Pennzoil it does not burn an ounce. Could have been the break in period, then again it could have not. Yes I did check the oil when I bought it. had 17 miles on the odometer then. Was full.
7/11/13, 05:00 PM
#64
Cobra Member
I agree that M1 and RP, despite what is said and what tests show, are not that great in my experience. They both break down very fast to me in other cars I own. So I don't want to chance things in the 5.0.
Currently I am running Pennz Ultra 5-20 and like it a lot. Next fill ill probably move to Amsoil 5-30.
Currently I am running Pennz Ultra 5-20 and like it a lot. Next fill ill probably move to Amsoil 5-30.
7/24/13, 01:57 AM
#65
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I have 9,500 miles on some Amsoil 5W-30 says you can go 10,000 before changing. Only had Motorcraft 5W-50, changed once, up to 13,500 miles then Amsoil. I don't have any data from the first couple opportunities, but this sample coming up could be quite useful. I picked Amsoil because I couldn't find any 5W-50, so try to make up for wrong viscosity by having superior quality oil that would work in a pinch.
Last edited by Lemmy; 7/24/13 at 04:13 AM.
7/24/13, 02:36 PM
#66
Cobra Member
I've personally witnessed an LS1 dyno 10 more rwhp changing from dino oil to amsoil syn and in another case from dino to Mobil 1 syn extended performance ( also on an ls1 car). Yes, 10 rwhp from an oil change.
7/24/13, 07:34 PM
#69
Cobra Member
7/27/13, 07:20 PM
#71
Mach 1 Member
I saw a camaro go from Dino to royal purple and gain 10rwhp. It was on some auto tv show. I forgot the name of it but it was about 7 years ago.
7/27/13, 07:56 PM
#72
Shelby GT350 Member
I could see going from a thick oil to very thin oil could free up hp (not gain, just free up). But the tradeoff using thinner oil that doesn't provide the protection a thicker oil does isn't worth it to me.
7/31/13, 08:34 PM
#74
Cobra Member
Yes sir. That's a fact . I've personally seen it done with Amsoil, RP and MOb1 ext perf.
Last edited by 2012GT; 7/31/13 at 08:36 PM.
8/7/13, 08:48 AM
#75
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You guys do realize the bos302 is built to different tolerances right? Also the track pack may be built to different tolerances. With assembly line tech that ford is using on the 5.0L they electronically match the bearings to part numbers to get a perfect fit every time.
In either case, if you drive the living crap out of your car day in and day out, throw the recomendations out the window from the factory and run 5-50 or even 60w oil. It will break down to what the tolerances need in short order and give you thermal protection at higher operating temp. In theory anyway. Add an oil cooler while your at it, it will help more than anything else you can do oil wise. If you use the bos302 cooler, it should help the engine reach operating temp faster too. Also keep in mind that the 2013+ 5.0L dont have piston oil squirters, that changes the game somewhat as at higher rpm the demand for oil is concentrated to bearings and not to cooling pistons. Personaly I like the fact that the older cars have piston squirters, if I decide to go power adder route or forged piston and rod route im still keeping them.
In either case, if you drive the living crap out of your car day in and day out, throw the recomendations out the window from the factory and run 5-50 or even 60w oil. It will break down to what the tolerances need in short order and give you thermal protection at higher operating temp. In theory anyway. Add an oil cooler while your at it, it will help more than anything else you can do oil wise. If you use the bos302 cooler, it should help the engine reach operating temp faster too. Also keep in mind that the 2013+ 5.0L dont have piston oil squirters, that changes the game somewhat as at higher rpm the demand for oil is concentrated to bearings and not to cooling pistons. Personaly I like the fact that the older cars have piston squirters, if I decide to go power adder route or forged piston and rod route im still keeping them.
8/7/13, 08:59 AM
#76
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You guys do realize the bos302 is built to different tolerances right? Also the track pack may be built to different tolerances. With assembly line tech that ford is using on the 5.0L they electronically match the bearings to part numbers to get a perfect fit every time.
In either case, if you drive the living crap out of your car day in and day out, throw the recomendations out the window from the factory and run 5-50 or even 60w oil. It will break down to what the tolerances need in short order and give you thermal protection at higher operating temp. In theory anyway. Add an oil cooler while your at it, it will help more than anything else you can do oil wise. If you use the bos302 cooler, it should help the engine reach operating temp faster too. Also keep in mind that the 2013+ 5.0L dont have piston oil squirters, that changes the game somewhat as at higher rpm the demand for oil is concentrated to bearings and not to cooling pistons. Personaly I like the fact that the older cars have piston squirters, if I decide to go power adder route or forged piston and rod route im still keeping them.
In either case, if you drive the living crap out of your car day in and day out, throw the recomendations out the window from the factory and run 5-50 or even 60w oil. It will break down to what the tolerances need in short order and give you thermal protection at higher operating temp. In theory anyway. Add an oil cooler while your at it, it will help more than anything else you can do oil wise. If you use the bos302 cooler, it should help the engine reach operating temp faster too. Also keep in mind that the 2013+ 5.0L dont have piston oil squirters, that changes the game somewhat as at higher rpm the demand for oil is concentrated to bearings and not to cooling pistons. Personaly I like the fact that the older cars have piston squirters, if I decide to go power adder route or forged piston and rod route im still keeping them.
8/7/13, 09:19 AM
#77
Bullitt Member
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...l#post12001064
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/...64#post1804864
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