Strano Performance Shift Improvement kit: MT-82 Transmissions
#61
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Originally Posted by blackgt87
I am glad you mentioned the NVH coming from the lockout tab rubbing. Mine was touching the lockout block while in first and second and the instructions with the shifter say to aim for a small gap. Although I could not push the shifter to the passenger side any more to create a gap. I don't know what else to do.
This probably explains why the noise is louder when I turn, because its probably pushing that tab into the lockout block harder.
This probably explains why the noise is louder when I turn, because its probably pushing that tab into the lockout block harder.
#63
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Originally Posted by blackgt87
How do you push it over? the holes in the base plate are not oval, and I dont see how it would move...
Last edited by mtnbikefuel80; 8/15/11 at 02:36 PM.
#65
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Originally Posted by blackgt87
I read that the first time I put it on, and I pushed it as hard as I could. I could not manage to make a gap there.
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I'm seriously debating if I should order this kit from Strano or wait for the MGW... I like the throws of the stock shifter, but the vauge feeling and the fact that I've missed 3rd on more than one occasion makes me want to upgrade.
Question to those who have already switched to Redline MTL: Do you need a pump to completely remove the stock fluid? I have yet to get up under the car and check for drain/fill plugs.
Question to those who have already switched to Redline MTL: Do you need a pump to completely remove the stock fluid? I have yet to get up under the car and check for drain/fill plugs.
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Originally Posted by 245/45ZR-17
I'm seriously debating if I should order this kit from Strano or wait for the MGW... I like the throws of the stock shifter, but the vauge feeling and the fact that I've missed 3rd on more than one occasion makes me want to upgrade.
Question to those who have already switched to Redline MTL: Do you need a pump to completely remove the stock fluid? I have yet to get up under the car and check for drain/fill plugs.
Question to those who have already switched to Redline MTL: Do you need a pump to completely remove the stock fluid? I have yet to get up under the car and check for drain/fill plugs.
As far as draining, no pump, just to refill. Drain plug is an easy find, the fill is on the side of trans facing the passenger side. Just an fyi, I wouldn't do it with the car hot because the drain n fill is right between the exhaust h pipe.
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Is the MGW out yet? Or did you get an early pre-order type of deal?
Also to fill the trans with the new fluid did you use a pump or just squeeze a funnel into the hole?
Also to fill the trans with the new fluid did you use a pump or just squeeze a funnel into the hole?
#69
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Originally Posted by 245/45ZR-17
Is the MGW out yet? Or did you get an early pre-order type of deal?
Also to fill the trans with the new fluid did you use a pump or just squeeze a funnel into the hole?
Also to fill the trans with the new fluid did you use a pump or just squeeze a funnel into the hole?
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Originally Posted by 245/45ZR-17
Is the MGW out yet? Or did you get an early pre-order type of deal?
Also to fill the trans with the new fluid did you use a pump or just squeeze a funnel into the hole?
Also to fill the trans with the new fluid did you use a pump or just squeeze a funnel into the hole?
To fill it we used a pump with a plastic hose on the end put into the fill plug. It's not easy to get to without it. Just be careful not to put the hose in too far and pump slowly otherwise it will drip back out.
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This is kind of going of the rails here fella's.
First, my kit, which has the Steeda shifter doesn't just change the handle. Everything down into the transmission shift rail is changed except the plastic cup at the bottom of the shifter. New handle, new base plate, everything.
There is no denying that the car shifts better, right? You guys need to understand that a lot of the reason the stock shifter is so vague is because it's meant to isolate you from the transmission noise as much as they can. But that causes slop in the system, just like say a big soft rubber engine mount with fluid isolates the engine more than billet mounts, or urethane mounts. Same thing here. Pick your poison, the fact is there is nothing bad going on here, and some change in harmonics is to be logically expected.
First, my kit, which has the Steeda shifter doesn't just change the handle. Everything down into the transmission shift rail is changed except the plastic cup at the bottom of the shifter. New handle, new base plate, everything.
There is no denying that the car shifts better, right? You guys need to understand that a lot of the reason the stock shifter is so vague is because it's meant to isolate you from the transmission noise as much as they can. But that causes slop in the system, just like say a big soft rubber engine mount with fluid isolates the engine more than billet mounts, or urethane mounts. Same thing here. Pick your poison, the fact is there is nothing bad going on here, and some change in harmonics is to be logically expected.
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This is kind of going of the rails here fella's.
First, my kit, which has the Steeda shifter doesn't just change the handle. Everything down into the transmission shift rail is changed except the plastic cup at the bottom of the shifter. New handle, new base plate, everything.
There is no denying that the car shifts better, right? You guys need to understand that a lot of the reason the stock shifter is so vague is because it's meant to isolate you from the transmission noise as much as they can. But that causes slop in the system, just like say a big soft rubber engine mount with fluid isolates the engine more than billet mounts, or urethane mounts. Same thing here. Pick your poison, the fact is there is nothing bad going on here, and some change in harmonics is to be logically expected.
First, my kit, which has the Steeda shifter doesn't just change the handle. Everything down into the transmission shift rail is changed except the plastic cup at the bottom of the shifter. New handle, new base plate, everything.
There is no denying that the car shifts better, right? You guys need to understand that a lot of the reason the stock shifter is so vague is because it's meant to isolate you from the transmission noise as much as they can. But that causes slop in the system, just like say a big soft rubber engine mount with fluid isolates the engine more than billet mounts, or urethane mounts. Same thing here. Pick your poison, the fact is there is nothing bad going on here, and some change in harmonics is to be logically expected.
#75
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I'm seriously debating if I should order this kit from Strano or wait for the MGW... I like the throws of the stock shifter, but the vauge feeling and the fact that I've missed 3rd on more than one occasion makes me want to upgrade.
Question to those who have already switched to Redline MTL: Do you need a pump to completely remove the stock fluid? I have yet to get up under the car and check for drain/fill plugs.
Question to those who have already switched to Redline MTL: Do you need a pump to completely remove the stock fluid? I have yet to get up under the car and check for drain/fill plugs.
Last edited by mtnbikefuel80; 8/15/11 at 02:45 PM.
#76
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This is kind of going of the rails here fella's.
First, my kit, which has the Steeda shifter doesn't just change the handle. Everything down into the transmission shift rail is changed except the plastic cup at the bottom of the shifter. New handle, new base plate, everything.
There is no denying that the car shifts better, right? You guys need to understand that a lot of the reason the stock shifter is so vague is because it's meant to isolate you from the transmission noise as much as they can. But that causes slop in the system, just like say a big soft rubber engine mount with fluid isolates the engine more than billet mounts, or urethane mounts. Same thing here. Pick your poison, the fact is there is nothing bad going on here, and some change in harmonics is to be logically expected.
First, my kit, which has the Steeda shifter doesn't just change the handle. Everything down into the transmission shift rail is changed except the plastic cup at the bottom of the shifter. New handle, new base plate, everything.
There is no denying that the car shifts better, right? You guys need to understand that a lot of the reason the stock shifter is so vague is because it's meant to isolate you from the transmission noise as much as they can. But that causes slop in the system, just like say a big soft rubber engine mount with fluid isolates the engine more than billet mounts, or urethane mounts. Same thing here. Pick your poison, the fact is there is nothing bad going on here, and some change in harmonics is to be logically expected.
I have been editing my initial review as time goes on
Last edited by mtnbikefuel80; 8/15/11 at 03:06 PM.
#77
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There is a little bit of play in the holes of the shifter that allow you to move it side to side. It's not much, but it's there. I used a flat-head screwdriver to push the baseplate over. Only takes a tiny bit.
#78
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I agree that third through sixth shifts and gear engagement are much much better now with the Steeda shifter and Redline fluid than stock and can't wait to drop the drive shaft to get the bushing on to see how that affects shifts (Nothing against your kit Sam, it has been an improvement and I have read a lot of great reviews on the Tri-Ax and any brand of shift bracket which is why I bought this kit). I also realize that NVH will increase (and fully expect it to) due to the harder bushings in the shifter itself and the stiffer base bushing. My issue right now is the pressure between the lockout tab and lockout base making it more difficult to shift into 1st and 2nd than before with the stock shifter and causing excessive NVH due to this contact, I just haven't had a chance to get it on my friends lift to investigate this issue further. (After swapping to redline and breaking in the shifter a little there isn't much of an increase in NVH over stock in 3-6). And the base bushing should be a non-issue now that I know what to torque the guide bearing bolts to so I can drop the drive shaft (ill cut off extra material from the bushing if my friend and I still can't get it on)
I have been editing my initial review as time goes on
I have been editing my initial review as time goes on
#79
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Originally Posted by montreal ponies
So Eric, have you managed to finally get your Steeda shifter and mount on properly ! I have mine sitting in the garage and waiting to be installed.
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Also hoping my SS brake lines, fluid, and pads will be in by then cuz im having his mechanic come out so i can learn how to bleed the brakes. Speaking of which, you're going to be getting another order from me shortly Sam
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#80
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Originally Posted by mtnbikefuel80
(i don't have jacks/ramps/torque wrenches. I know i know i need to get some of those).