Yea almost all my NVH is coming in first and second and im 99.9% sure thats the reason. Im hopefully putting mine back up on the lift this weekend to try and push it more towrds the passenger side and try putting the base bushing on again. Also need to change the spring tension and put some grease on the lockout tab so it doesn't squeak.

 

How do you push it over? the holes in the base plate are not oval, and I dont see how it would move...

 

There are tolerances so it should be able to move a small amount, hopefully that will get me a slight gap. If that doesn't work i may take the dremel to the edge of the lockout tab. The squeaking of the tab and lockout rubbing against each other and causing difficulty when i shift is much more annoying than the NVH.

 

I read that the first time I put it on, and I pushed it as hard as I could. I could not manage to make a gap there.

 

Yea, i read those after the fact. I watched a youtube video on how to install. I had to pull the shifter really hard to the drivers side to get the fourth screw in so that may have moved it if i didn't have the other screws torqued down enough. We'll see. It may come down to using the dremel to shave a little off the side.

 

I'm seriously debating if I should order this kit from Strano or wait for the MGW... I like the throws of the stock shifter, but the vauge feeling and the fact that I've missed 3rd on more than one occasion makes me want to upgrade.

Question to those who have already switched to Redline MTL: Do you need a pump to completely remove the stock fluid? I have yet to get up under the car and check for drain/fill plugs.

 

I was in the same boat. I ended up going with MGW because it replaces the whole shifter and not just the handle. It should be here next week so I'll post up some reviews after install.

As far as draining, no pump, just to refill. Drain plug is an easy find, the fill is on the side of trans facing the passenger side. Just an fyi, I wouldn't do it with the car hot because the drain n fill is right between the exhaust h pipe.

 

Is the MGW out yet? Or did you get an early pre-order type of deal?

Also to fill the trans with the new fluid did you use a pump or just squeeze a funnel into the hole?

 

Pump with a tube

 

Kind of a pre order. Someone bailed on theirs and I was on their wait list. I was told it would be shipping soon earlier last week, but my card hasn't been ran, so once I see that I'll get my hopes up.

To fill it we used a pump with a plastic hose on the end put into the fill plug. It's not easy to get to without it. Just be careful not to put the hose in too far and pump slowly otherwise it will drip back out.

 

Thanks for the tips guys!

 

No prob. Good luck!

 

This is kind of going of the rails here fella's.

First, my kit, which has the Steeda shifter doesn't just change the handle. Everything down into the transmission shift rail is changed except the plastic cup at the bottom of the shifter. New handle, new base plate, everything.

There is no denying that the car shifts better, right? You guys need to understand that a lot of the reason the stock shifter is so vague is because it's meant to isolate you from the transmission noise as much as they can. But that causes slop in the system, just like say a big soft rubber engine mount with fluid isolates the engine more than billet mounts, or urethane mounts. Same thing here. Pick your poison, the fact is there is nothing bad going on here, and some change in harmonics is to be logically expected.

 

I agree. My car is shifting like butter these days. I get a good deal of NVH if I get lazy and rest my hand on the shifter but that's about it. My Long Tube Headers and O/R X-pipe took care of any little noises I had in the past - they are gone now for ever and ever -right out the tail pipes LOL!

 

The Steeda shifter is much better and more solid than the stock shifter and does help the vagueness, i haven't missed third yet (then again I don't remember missing third original shifter). The stock shifter has a really thin base plate, plastic joint, and plastic lockout tab. Redline definitely improved smoothness of gear engagement. I cant report on the bracket yet as I am having difficulty installing that, but should be cleared up this week. I went to Lamotta performance here and he has a Barton in his car but his engine was dropped out of the car so i couldn't drive it to see the difference.

 

I agree that third through sixth shifts and gear engagement are much much better now with the Steeda shifter and Redline fluid than stock and can't wait to drop the drive shaft to get the bushing on to see how that affects shifts (Nothing against your kit Sam, it has been an improvement and I have read a lot of great reviews on the Tri-Ax and any brand of shift bracket which is why I bought this kit). I also realize that NVH will increase (and fully expect it to) due to the harder bushings in the shifter itself and the stiffer base bushing. My issue right now is the pressure between the lockout tab and lockout base making it more difficult to shift into 1st and 2nd than before with the stock shifter and causing excessive NVH due to this contact, I just haven't had a chance to get it on my friends lift to investigate this issue further. (After swapping to redline and breaking in the shifter a little there isn't much of an increase in NVH over stock in 3-6). And the base bushing should be a non-issue now that I know what to torque the guide bearing bolts to so I can drop the drive shaft (ill cut off extra material from the bushing if my friend and I still can't get it on)

I have been editing my initial review as time goes on

 

There is a little bit of play in the holes of the shifter that allow you to move it side to side. It's not much, but it's there. I used a flat-head screwdriver to push the baseplate over. Only takes a tiny bit.

 

So Eric, have you managed to finally get your Steeda shifter and mount on properly ! I have mine sitting in the garage and waiting to be installed.

 

Unfortunately no Was hoping to be able to go to my friends house to use his lift and tools this weekend but he doesn't have time (i don't have jacks/ramps/torque wrenches. I know i know i need to get some of those). I am going there next sunday for sure though, planning on trying to move the shifter over and greasing the lockout tab and dropping the driveshaft guide bearing to install the bracket. Even without the setup at 100% shifting is getting better and better every day since i swapped fluids, that redline is the best!

Also hoping my SS brake lines, fluid, and pads will be in by then cuz im having his mechanic come out so i can learn how to bleed the brakes. Speaking of which, you're going to be getting another order from me shortly Sam

 

I just bought Rhino Ramps from Advance Auto Parts for $28 online with store pickup. If you've near one that's a heck of a deal. They're on sale plus there's a 20% coupon code on the site.