Rear end mods
Rear end mods
Last week I removed the rear end from my '13 GT and took it to my friend to have a Swarr Bar welded on. I also had him weld up the axle tubes. My brother primed and painted it for me afterwards and it turned out really nice. I started to reinstall the rear end a couple of days ago and let me say that it was a PITA to do a R&R job like this all alone. The Swarr Bar adds a challenge to raising the rear end back into place. A couple of other things I wanted to point out are:
1. I installed BMR sway bar relocate brackets in preparation for 15X10 drag wheels and encountered some clearance issues with the sway bar and the lower shock mount bracket. I wish I had known this ahead of time and I could have addressed it when I took the rear to be worked on. It looks like I will have to massage the lower shock mount in order to gain the necessary clearance.
2.Getting the UCA bushing out of the rear end housing took a long time to do. I can't imagine doing this with the rear end in the car. I will be using a UPR spherical Bushing and a Pro Street adjustable UCA.
Here are a few pics of the rear end before I reinstalled it.







1. I installed BMR sway bar relocate brackets in preparation for 15X10 drag wheels and encountered some clearance issues with the sway bar and the lower shock mount bracket. I wish I had known this ahead of time and I could have addressed it when I took the rear to be worked on. It looks like I will have to massage the lower shock mount in order to gain the necessary clearance.
2.Getting the UCA bushing out of the rear end housing took a long time to do. I can't imagine doing this with the rear end in the car. I will be using a UPR spherical Bushing and a Pro Street adjustable UCA.
Here are a few pics of the rear end before I reinstalled it.







Last edited by NoSlo5oH; Mar 15, 2014 at 11:56 PM.
I'm guessing because you welded the axle tubes your drag racing the car? Why get a track pack then? That rear won't last long with constant clutch dumps on slicks.
What clearance issues did you have exactly with the sway bar relocation brackets? I have them and had no clearance issues but it is tight there.
What clearance issues did you have exactly with the sway bar relocation brackets? I have them and had no clearance issues but it is tight there.
I do plan to run the car a few times a year, but won't be doing any clutch dumps. I will slip the clutch to get out of the hole to avoid parts failure. The main clearance problem that I have is on the left rear corner of the control arm mounting bracket. The sway bar touches slightly. In addition to that clearance is very tight on both sides of the car between the outside rear of each control arm mounting bracket (about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch at most). Let me clarify that I most likely would have encountered the same thing using any of the sway bar relocation brackets that are being sold.
I'm not running control arm relocation brackets. I was considering buying some, but Kelly from BMR told me that I wouldn't really benefit from them at the stock ride height.
Last edited by NoSlo5oH; Mar 16, 2014 at 11:02 AM.
I have built and trussed many axles over the years doing off road desert racing, I sure hope the guy that welded that took his time and did not weld it all at once or you are going to end up with a bent axle housing from the heat and pulling of the metal on that brace.
Also you should not grind or (Clearance) a sway bar it ruins the integrity of the metal!
What made you decide to do this if you are not going to be launching this thing hard off the line? ( feathering the clutch)?
Also you should not grind or (Clearance) a sway bar it ruins the integrity of the metal!
What made you decide to do this if you are not going to be launching this thing hard off the line? ( feathering the clutch)?
I have built and trussed many axles over the years doing off road desert racing, I sure hope the guy that welded that took his time and did not weld it all at once or you are going to end up with a bent axle housing from the heat and pulling of the metal on that brace.
Also you should not grind or (Clearance) a sway bar it ruins the integrity of the metal!
What made you decide to do this if you are not going to be launching this thing hard off the line? ( feathering the clutch)?
Also you should not grind or (Clearance) a sway bar it ruins the integrity of the metal!
What made you decide to do this if you are not going to be launching this thing hard off the line? ( feathering the clutch)?
Last week I removed the rear end from my '13 GT and took it to my friend to have a Swarr Bar welded on. I also had him weld up the axle tubes. My brother primed and painted it for me afterwards and it turned out really nice. I started to reinstall the rear end a couple of days ago and let me say that it was a PITA to do a R&R job like this all alone. The Swarr Bar adds a challenge to raising the rear end back into place. A couple of other things I wanted to point out are: 1. I installed BMR sway bar relocate brackets in preparation for 15X10 drag wheels and encountered some clearance issues with the sway bar and the lower shock mount bracket. I wish I had known this ahead of time and I could have addressed it when I took the rear to be worked on. It looks like I will have to massage the lower shock mount in order to gain the necessary clearance. 2.Getting the UCA bushing out of the rear end housing took a long time to do. I can't imagine doing this with the rear end in the car. I will be using a UPR spherical Bushing and a Pro Street adjustable UCA. Here are a few pics of the rear end before I reinstalled it.
Thanks GrabberBlue. I talked to Kelly at BMR today and he suggested the v6 sway bar too. He also asked me how the suspension was loaded and I told him that I had a jack underneath the rear end. He said that I should install the bar and sit the car on the tires to see if that provides the necessary clearance and as a last resort, trim the control arm mounting brackets instead of the sway bar itself.
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