Lowering Springs on a 5.0?
7/30/10, 01:15 PM
#61
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have you used a plumb and actually measured. That tells the true tale.
The axles are very tight to center from AAI, but even if that wasnt the case it makes a bigger case for the adj bar as you would need to account for in consitant attaching points.
Steeda part #555-2551
Price $159.95
Comes complete with everything you need.
Maximum Motorsports 05+ kit. I have them on my car
The axles are very tight to center from AAI, but even if that wasnt the case it makes a bigger case for the adj bar as you would need to account for in consitant attaching points.
Steeda part #555-2551
Price $159.95
Comes complete with everything you need.
Maximum Motorsports 05+ kit. I have them on my car
8/1/10, 08:20 AM
#62
So, with Eibach Sportlines, what bad is happening to my car w/ nothing added but springs? Also, aside from the P/H bar, what else would I need to "do it right"? I was told nothing about any of this by the guys at the shop that did the lowering on my car. 
8/1/10, 10:22 AM
#63
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Besides the adj panhard bar, you probably want to get an alignment.
8/1/10, 08:33 PM
#65
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Here's what you need to "do it right" on a budget:
Springs
Adjustable Panhard Bar
Cut bumpstops in half
AT LEAST get your alignment checked.
From there you can add the following to "go the extra mile":
Control arm relocation brackets
Upgraded control arms
Upgraded shocks/struts
Caster/camber plates
I'm sure there's more, but that's the very basics. In the least you need to fill the first list to make sure you're not messing up anything by skipping a step.
Springs
Adjustable Panhard Bar
Cut bumpstops in half
AT LEAST get your alignment checked.
From there you can add the following to "go the extra mile":
Control arm relocation brackets
Upgraded control arms
Upgraded shocks/struts
Caster/camber plates
I'm sure there's more, but that's the very basics. In the least you need to fill the first list to make sure you're not messing up anything by skipping a step.
8/1/10, 08:51 PM
#66
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I would like to chime in here:
to do it right on a budget
springs
panhard bar
I recommend shocks that are valved to go with a higher spring rate.
to TRUELY do it right:
bump steer kit.
if your going to track the car:
caster/camber plate
the stock control arms are fine unless you are a hardcore road race guy or plan to drag race quiet a bit.
to do it right on a budget
springs
panhard bar
I recommend shocks that are valved to go with a higher spring rate.
to TRUELY do it right:
bump steer kit.
if your going to track the car:
caster/camber plate
the stock control arms are fine unless you are a hardcore road race guy or plan to drag race quiet a bit.
8/1/10, 09:19 PM
#67
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I would like to chime in here:
to do it right on a budget
springs
panhard bar
I recommend shocks that are valved to go with a higher spring rate.
to TRUELY do it right:
bump steer kit.
if your going to track the car:
caster/camber plate
the stock control arms are fine unless you are a hardcore road race guy or plan to drag race quiet a bit.
to do it right on a budget
springs
panhard bar
I recommend shocks that are valved to go with a higher spring rate.
to TRUELY do it right:
bump steer kit.
if your going to track the car:
caster/camber plate
the stock control arms are fine unless you are a hardcore road race guy or plan to drag race quiet a bit.
http://www.steeda.com/news/steeda_ne...rt-mustang.php
8/1/10, 09:30 PM
#68
I am Shauny Clause
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I will ask Gus when I speak to him tommorow.
I am sure they just forgot to list it.
I am sure they just forgot to list it.
Last edited by Stinger1982; 8/1/10 at 11:54 PM.
8/2/10, 10:16 AM
#69
I've added springs only on countless cars with no issue.
Budget minded and on the street 90% of the time? $199 springs and alignment. Camber bolts may be needed, but not always. My 2011 didn't need them.
Have a little more Do the adj. panhard bar to center the rear.
I tracked my GT500 at VIR 4-5 (2 & 3 day)events with ONLY springs, adj. panhard bar, alignment, STOCK shocks, STOCK struts and STOCK sway bars. Passed many guys with the FRPP and "other" full suspension packages too.
Put the extra money in event admission, not extra parts.
Budget minded and on the street 90% of the time? $199 springs and alignment. Camber bolts may be needed, but not always. My 2011 didn't need them.
Have a little more Do the adj. panhard bar to center the rear.
I tracked my GT500 at VIR 4-5 (2 & 3 day)events with ONLY springs, adj. panhard bar, alignment, STOCK shocks, STOCK struts and STOCK sway bars. Passed many guys with the FRPP and "other" full suspension packages too.
Put the extra money in event admission, not extra parts.
8/2/10, 10:28 AM
#70
I don't believe in cutting the bumpstops unless the manufacturer of the springs tells you to do so. I've seen too many people who do this and destroy something because they had no sort of protection after removing them.
With some vehicles, it's inevitable to remove/cut them, but I would avoid it if possible.
With some vehicles, it's inevitable to remove/cut them, but I would avoid it if possible.
8/2/10, 11:56 AM
#71
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I don't believe in cutting the bumpstops unless the manufacturer of the springs tells you to do so. I've seen too many people who do this and destroy something because they had no sort of protection after removing them.
With some vehicles, it's inevitable to remove/cut them, but I would avoid it if possible.
With some vehicles, it's inevitable to remove/cut them, but I would avoid it if possible.
Last edited by Modshack; 8/2/10 at 11:57 AM.
8/2/10, 12:12 PM
#72
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I don't believe in cutting the bumpstops unless the manufacturer of the springs tells you to do so. I've seen too many people who do this and destroy something because they had no sort of protection after removing them.
With some vehicles, it's inevitable to remove/cut them, but I would avoid it if possible.
With some vehicles, it's inevitable to remove/cut them, but I would avoid it if possible.
For a 1.5" drop the stock length bumpstops are simply too long.
8/2/10, 05:03 PM
#73
So far loving the Sportlines with no problems here. 19's keep the ride quality compared to the 20's.
8/2/10, 05:59 PM
#74
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8/2/10, 06:14 PM
#75
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Not to directly call you out. I mean no offense; I'm just amused that so many people think a .5" radius is so incredibly noticeable.
8/2/10, 07:26 PM
#76
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I am very genuinely baffled that so many people claim there is such a difference between a 19" and a 20". I can't envision the difference being anything more than either perceived or grossly exaggerated in one's mind.
Not to directly call you out. I mean no offense; I'm just amused that so many people think a .5" radius is so incredibly noticeable.
Not to directly call you out. I mean no offense; I'm just amused that so many people think a .5" radius is so incredibly noticeable.
8/2/10, 09:00 PM
#78
Eibach Sportlines with the new bumpstops they provide. I had the Pro-Kit on my last stang, and I wanted to go lower... this is lower, lol.
Oh young grasshopper. I own 2 sets of wheels, these stock 19's and the Bullitt Motorsport 20's, both have been on this car multiple times to compare ride at stock height and lowered, and I assure you, there is a large difference. You are failing to take into account rubber compounds associated with a performance 20" tire vs the stock tire. The rim diameter isn't the only thing changing, the rim width changed also, and with that the tire profile and make up are different. The 19x8.5 has a taller side wall and is more rounded of a profile from the contact patch when compared to a 20x10 wheel with a tire designed to keep the over all tire height the same +/-a few mm. The tire on the 20 has a shorter sidewall and goes straight up from the contact patch so ther is less meat in vertical as well as diagonal to absorb the impacts the road throws at it. Also, taller side walls with narrower contact patches have more give than a shorter sidewall with a larger contact patch. Think smashing a sphere vs smashing an oval of similar volumes both secured at points on the lateral ends, the sphere will have more vertical travel and spring vs the oval, but the oval will have less lateral travel. That's the point of getting wider and taller rims, to increase the amount of wheel that is metal, not rubber, to prevent flex under heavy driving, Like autoX, which 18s and 19s work, but 20's are too tall becaus they dont flex enough. Drag racing uses short rim height and wider wheels to allow tire flex and hook up on large contact patches. You need to think in 3d and take into account more variables than just 2d and one single variable changing, its not that simple. Again, I'm no professional at wheels/tires/suspension... but I used to be pretty **** good at Math, Physics, and Chemistry back in my college days. 
When I get home from work tomorrow I'll draw a pic and show you what I mean, it's kinda hard to describe.
I am very genuinely baffled that so many people claim there is such a difference between a 19" and a 20". I can't envision the difference being anything more than either perceived or grossly exaggerated in one's mind.
Not to directly call you out. I mean no offense; I'm just amused that so many people think a .5" radius is so incredibly noticeable.
Not to directly call you out. I mean no offense; I'm just amused that so many people think a .5" radius is so incredibly noticeable.
When I get home from work tomorrow I'll draw a pic and show you what I mean, it's kinda hard to describe.
8/3/10, 05:45 AM
#79
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8/3/10, 05:52 AM
#80
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Here are some better pics of the FRPP 1inch drop. I am getting more impressed with the ride everyday as they are now settling in. I really think this is how the car should have come stock.