So do you have to modify other parts on the car to get them installed? The OP said something about the starter wires unable to connect without replacing the terminal lugs,...something of that nature. How do you like your headers? It was between SW and Kooks for me but I chose SW just because I've never had them before on any of my muscle cars.

 

Typically no. I know a few people with kooks and a shop that uses them exclusively and they had never had any issues. But that being said not every one will be perfect. With that I would recommend kooks to anyone. I had there headers on my mach1 as well.

 

Ok, so here's an update:

Headers are installed now and everything is back in place.
Once I removed the k member it was smooth sailing, I would recommend dropping the k member to anyone that is going to install the Kooks 1-7/8. Maybe it's not needed on other header brands or even on the kooks 1-3/4, but with the issue I had with my starter cables there was no way I could get to what I need to with the k member there.

As far as the starter issue, I'm not sure why mine wouldn't bolt back up the way it came off. I ended up having to bend the ring terminal completely 180° and have it come in from the opposite side of the starter.

YES clearances are very tight during install but once everything is bolted down, there is plenty of clearance all over. Pretty impressive for how much space these things take up.

I ended up not being comfortable with how close the header was to the entire starter, so I not only wrapped the cables with the supplied insulation wrap but I wrapped the entire starter with a thick fire blanket that is used for protecting 2x4's when you're sodering copper pipes close to a wall. I think it worked out pretty good, wrapped it up then secured it with stainless zip ties. I DO NOT want to have to replace my starter anytime soon. LOL

Even though I ran into some issues along the way, I would absolutely do it again.... as long as I dropped the k member first. I think you're able to do a much higher quality job with the k member out since you actually have room to tighten all the bolts properly.

As far as sound goes, my car is stored in the garage for now so I haven't heard it under load, but idling and revving sounds amazing!!

I also tried loading the cam idle tune from Bama and this thing sounds like a top fuel dragster!! The sound is light years better than the steeda cam idle tune i used to have.

Now I REALLY can't wait for the snow to melt!!

 

So glad you got everything worked out. I'm sure you will enjoy them.

 

Ok, now it's time for you to make some videos!

 

I know, I tried the other day but the back of my car is up against the garage wall and it sounded really echoey/weird in the video.
I'll be getting new tires and rims soon, ill be able to move it outside and try taking video again

 

Awesome man congrats! Glad everything worked out great. I had kooks on a few of my older stangs and loved them, but I felt like venturing out and trying other brands.

 

Have someone video you while you do some idle, revs, drive offs, drive by, and WOT

 

It's going to be a while I think. It was 20 below on the way to work this morning

 

just for fun here is My car with KOOKS Headers, Catted X pipe, stock over axle pipes and kooks cat back.

 

Jummy! What is usually picked up from 1-3/4 and a tune?

 

a solid tune is worth 20-25 hp with these cars. the 1 3/4 headers offer any where from 15-20 on top of that. the 1 7/8 aren't worth any more power out the gate but offer a better foundation for a bigger build. if I'm not mistaken KooKs is the only true equal length header available and they has the collector spike that helps with scavenging keeping more dirty air in the exhaust and more clean air in the cylinder. Short of a full custom tuned tri-y set up, you wont find a better header. At least that's my opinion anyway.

 

Ahh I'm from Texas. We don't have that problem haha

 

Custom tuned tri-y???

Check these out..

 

yep. like that pretty much. primarys on that one are a mile long. i dont know if the parings are tuned together or not but with that much work involved and clearly a talented builder i would imagine so. its a pretty freakin sweet set up.

 

ok. serioulsy...that is ****ing ridiculous. the man hours spent in fitting that has got to be crazy. mad skills.

 

"Made all of it myself. 0.035" thick 321 stainless. Stepped 1 5/8" 1 3/4" 1 7/8". Tri-Y with slip fit merge collectors."


ok. serioulsy...that is ****ing ridiculous. the man hours spent in fitting that has got to be crazy. mad skills.

 

Go back in history to the Trans-Am pony car racing series: There were a couple of well-supported racers who had "180-degree" tuned headers that had primaries crossing from bank to bank. They sounded like V-12s at high revs. I believe they did add power, but the complexity overbalanced the gains, and they didn't catch on.