SpectreH

I'm ordering a supercharger (Procharger i-1) and figured I need to go ahead and upgrade the driveshaft and ditch the factory two-piece unit.


I've narrowed it down to three choices:


Steeda aluminum: http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang...-238-10002094/


Driveshaft shop aluminum: http://www.americanmuscle.com/dss-al...ft-1114gt.html


Driveshaft shop carbon fiber: http://www.americanmuscle.com/dss-cf...ft-1114gt.html


Any comments or suggestions on these choices?

AMAlexLazarus

Hey - For what it's worth I would shoot for the DSS One Piece Aluminum based on the price alone. While it's still going to weigh significantly less than the OEM DS I don't think carbon fiber is needed unless this car is going to be living at the track. Drop me a line if you misplaced our discount code and I'll get you set up!

Alex

esfkotaro

I've had the same question, but I was leaning towards the CF simply for the reviews I've read that suggested that the CF improves not just the weight factor, but also the NVH\Driveability factor. Numerous reviews said that the DSS CF DS (lol) didn't just make the car rev more freely, but also made hard launches and general take-off much smoother. Something about the CF absorbing the clunk better than aluminum\steel can.

Anyhow, based on what I've read (As I've not yet upgraded my DS myself), Alex is right from a simple performance to cost standpoint, but if you have the cash to pony up, the CF DS reviews suggest benefits beyond just raw performance. Then again, that may just be people looking for whatever they can to justify having spent the extra $500 or so, who knows.

Edit: I should mention that the aluminum 1-piece will also smooth up the driveline noticeably over stock (2 piece steel stocker is a clunky mess). The reviews I was talking about aren't just about the CF DS vs the stock steel DS, it was also DS's aluminum vs CF (people who initially went with the aluminum, then went with the CF, or mags that reviewed both side by side, etc.) And whatever you decide, I very much recommend a DS safety loop to match...a family friend is missing a leg due to an accident racing, in which the DS ripped though the floor and mangled his leg, due to not having a safety loop.

AMAlexLazarus

This is a hell of a reply - I think you're doing my job better than I am! Thanks for the help here too. I just doesn't make sense to throw the money at the CF DS unless the car is a trailer queen/purpose built racecar.

OP PM Received and replied as well, enjoy!

Alex

esfkotaro

I tend to agree, the extra $500 is **** hard to justify outside of a track car. And you do a fine job Alex! I just find that a lot of folks in our hobby tend to look just at the numbers (and those with a $ before them are VERY important numbers), but tend to forget some of the less quantifiable benefits\drawbacks to certain mods. Only reason I've been leaning in that direction (CF), again, is while I'm modding for power to a point, driveability and reliability are my two primary concerns at every step, with this being my DD.

To be completely practical and honest, though, I'll probably end up doing the Aluminum DS anyhow. $500 goes a long way on new parts, and the Alum. shaft will correct a good portion of what I want from the CF anyhow. And I could really use that $500 for other things (mods). I have quite the wishlist going forward, believe you me.

In addendum to my original post: Only reason I have not commented on the Steeda DS is that I know\have read next to nothing about it, other than their sales page details. I've used Steeda products in several of my past Mustangs, and never had any issues with anything from them. As far as DSS's shafts go, I've heard nothing but rave reviews, so as far as I can tell you can't really go wrong with either, based on DSS reviews and my experience with Steeda products.

tj@steeda

Here is article that was done on our unit for more reading - Let's Roll

I would be happy to put you in contact with one of the team members that runs this on their car ... he could give you direct feedback of the product.

You can shoot me an email at tim@steeda.com & I will set-up the connection ... effortless on your part!

Best Regards,

TJ

SpectreH

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I will decide very soon which direction to go in. I should have the i-1 ordered Fridaybor Monday. Waiting on some input as to which intercooler to get.

The main reason I even consider the CF unit is if I build the engine up at a later date. The initial install won't really require it but I kind of go along the lines of buy it one and be done.

SplitSecond

Both the Aluminum and carbon fiber shafts from DSS are rated for the same amount of horsepower and torque. The only advantages I am seeing with the carbon fiber shift is that it is 1 pound lighter (18 vs. 19) and the diameter is slightly smaller. So unless you need the extra clearance from a smaller driveshaft, you are paying $500 extra for an extra pound.
I would go with the DSS aluminum myself.

SpectreH

I went with the CF DS because it was on sale, I had some store credit with AM, and the discount code helped too. The DS should be here Thursday, the i-1 is 2-3 weeks out. Then it's build time


If I end up with too much axle hop, I see a set of Steeda LCAs and UCA in my future. I've read the Brembo equipped cars already have GT500 LCAs, so I'll see how is goes.

tj@steeda

& ... you won't be disappointed!!

Best Regards,

TJ

bodon

I bracket race my car. I went with Shaftmasters. Best price($599) and the difference between the alum. shafts is negligible. Install was easy, they included Loctite for the bolts, the proper socket for the bolts and even a tap to clean the threads with. Ive run mine up to 120 mph and its smooth as silk. Just a side note though, after the install it made absolutely NO difference in ET or trap speed at the track. That really surprised me.

SpectreH

Quick question: the directions are virtually nonexistent. They say to torque the 10mm bolts to 57 lb-ft. I assume that is the driveshaft to flange adapter. What to I torque the flange adapter to differential to and the driveshaft to transmission to? One thing I read online seemed to say 41 lb-ft.

esfkotaro

I would imagine that they would be torqued to factory (Ford) spec. So whatever the factory DS bolts were torqued to, the new bolts will be as well.

This may (or may not, it's for the 2011 GT) help:

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=751&viewfil...and%205.4L.pdf

The torque specs for the factory DS are there, with diagrams.

SpectreH

Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for.

MKMotorsport

Anyone have/run/log some decent miles on a CF shaft??? What kind of longevity do they have in a street application? How many miles do they last in a street app.??

SpectreH

Good question....I'll report on how it works in my case. Still waiting on that supercharger to arrive at this point. I put about 1000 miles a month on my car, so if it has shortcomings, I'll find out fast. The 2013-14 GT500s have a factory CF driveshaft. I have no heard anything bad from them.

MKMotorsport

Ah didn't know that GT500's had one stock, interesting. So they must stand the test of time if an OEM uses it, albeit on a limited production vehicle. I'm an avid mtn biker, and in the VERY early days of CF handlebars Easton use to caution against extremely prolong use and that the bar should be replaced every so often. Not sure if that applies anymore, maybe they have overcome that, this was in the early days of CF consumer products.