Catch can or breathers???
#42
Mach 1 Member
14Glassback.....LOL straight from the MANUAL
Running a breather system is nothing new. With new synthetic oils, sludge build up is NOT an issue. Even the best "catch can" systems, they CAN let some blow by gasses into your intake thus decreasing your octane level. Oil in your intake can cause other issues as well. Re-typing same BS over and over about sludge and seals. Breathers are NOT as environmentally correct, but they have more positive effects on your motor than negative. No way am I sucking oil into my intake while FI.
Running a breather system is nothing new. With new synthetic oils, sludge build up is NOT an issue. Even the best "catch can" systems, they CAN let some blow by gasses into your intake thus decreasing your octane level. Oil in your intake can cause other issues as well. Re-typing same BS over and over about sludge and seals. Breathers are NOT as environmentally correct, but they have more positive effects on your motor than negative. No way am I sucking oil into my intake while FI.
#43
The Text Book is great, but it only covers engines with PCV valves or engines that are essentially sealed, no middle ground, so an engine without ventilation would have the gasket issues mentioned. Breathers are in the middle of the two options and are not covered by this text. Granted they are more suited for boosted engines than NA, but if oil is changed on a regular basis there will be no issues with dilution of the oil. PCV valves were put into place for emissions control mainly and to stop the vent/drain tubes on older engines from leaking oil on the roads. You are right...to each their own.
#44
We know for a fact that this is BS. Bobs has been proven time and time again to be significantly better than JLT for example. That's far from "same as all the rest". Also how can you put a stamp of "catches 95% of the oil" out there like that? There is no measurable way you can tell how much is getting by to be able to assign a percentage to it. Even lining up cans consecutively doesn't tell the whole story because the second can is always dealing with a different density and temp of vapor.
Honestly it sounds like this guy wants to sell catch cans. How many people are really going to buy more than one and test it to substantiate his claims? Not many. So as long as he is confident and acts like he has nothing to hide, he will sell units. Plus he is on an f150 forum, full of NON motor and performance enthusiasts. Why don't we see him here or other mustang forums??? Probably bc he'd get called on his smoke and mirrors.
Honestly it sounds like this guy wants to sell catch cans. How many people are really going to buy more than one and test it to substantiate his claims? Not many. So as long as he is confident and acts like he has nothing to hide, he will sell units. Plus he is on an f150 forum, full of NON motor and performance enthusiasts. Why don't we see him here or other mustang forums??? Probably bc he'd get called on his smoke and mirrors.
I'm far from a catch can expert so I have no idea which one is the best. I can only go by my own experience and what I read from others.
I do know that before I bought my 14GT and was inquiring about which catch can to put on my fiancée's 07GT, most everyone said go with UPR. So when I bought my Mustang, that is what I went with and what my fiancée bought for hers. After running it for awhile on my car, I checked the hose at the intake barb and it was wet with oil. I was not happy about that.
After that, I did some more research and a lot of people said go with Bob's so that is what I did. I checked the output hose on it a few months ago and while it was not as wet as when I used the UPR, it did have a film of oil in the hose and on the intake barb. I also used the hose that came with the Bob's can so it was all new and never used. I cleaned the end of the hose out and the inside and outside of the barb and will recheck it at some point.
I do believe the Bob's can is much better than the JLT and I believe it is better than the original UPR version. My UPR can seemed to catch more oil than the Bob's can has so far but that may be because the engine was more broke in when I started running the Bob's can and seems to use less oil now than in the beginning. The new diffuser for the UPR can may end up being better than the Bob's can but who knows.
I would just like to run the most effective can I can but who knows which one that is. Some people base the effectiveness on how much oil a can catches and others on the least amount of oil that makes it to the intake.
I just posted those links so people could draw their own conclusions from the debates on there. I don't run a RX can and only heard that name a few times in the past on some of the Camaro and GM truck forums so I have no idea how good or bad they are. I just thought the guy on there made some interesting points.
Wayne
#45
I went out and pulled the quick connect off of the intake manifold barb. It's been about 1,300 miles since I last checked for signs of oil. Like before, there was a very slight film of oil on the outside of the manifold bard but it didn't discolor the Q-tip I used on it. I then ran the Q-tip around the inside walls of the barb and only came up with a very slight discoloration. I than ran a new Q-tip around the inside of the quick connect and I did get some oil colored discoloration but it wasn't really that much and the Q-tip was still mostly white. It was more than what I got from running a Q-tip over the inside and outside of the manifold barb.
It doesn't appear that very much oil is getting through so it seems that the Bob's can is doing it's job pretty well.
I plan on reinstalling the UPR can with the new diffuser at some point and see how well it does.
Wayne
It doesn't appear that very much oil is getting through so it seems that the Bob's can is doing it's job pretty well.
I plan on reinstalling the UPR can with the new diffuser at some point and see how well it does.
Wayne
#47
I went out and pulled the quick connect off of the intake manifold barb. It's been about 1,300 miles since I last checked for signs of oil. Like before, there was a very slight film of oil on the outside of the manifold bard but it didn't discolor the Q-tip I used on it. I then ran the Q-tip around the inside walls of the barb and only came up with a very slight discoloration. I than ran a new Q-tip around the inside of the quick connect and I did get some oil colored discoloration but it wasn't really that much and the Q-tip was still mostly white. It was more than what I got from running a Q-tip over the inside and outside of the manifold barb.
It doesn't appear that very much oil is getting through so it seems that the Bob's can is doing it's job pretty well.
I plan on reinstalling the UPR can with the new diffuser at some point and see how well it does.
Wayne
It doesn't appear that very much oil is getting through so it seems that the Bob's can is doing it's job pretty well.
I plan on reinstalling the UPR can with the new diffuser at some point and see how well it does.
Wayne
Well, tonight I went out to install my UPR can with the new diffuser. I took the Bob's can off and pulled out the quick connects from the hoses.
Looking into the end of the output hose that I had just pulled the quick connect out of, I saw no oil at all. It was completely dry. I looked inside the barbed end of the quick connect that had been inside the hose and ran a new Q-tip all the way around the inside of it and it came back completely white. No discoloration at all. I'm not sure what to think since I did get a slight discoloration on the Q-tip when running it inside the quick connect end. Maybe I forgot to clean that side out when I originally installed it. Maybe it's working even better than I thought.
I did drain the Bob's can and I had 1/2 ounce of oil in it in 1,300 miles. The oil didn't look like it had any water in it at all.
I ended up not installing the UPR can because when I went to mount it, I discovered the problem I was having before. The bottom of the can hits the coil cover and actually wore part of the knurled section on the edge of the can smooth and also wore a spot on the cover itself. It also rubs on the AC line that is there. I'm going to talk to UPR about making a bracket that holds the can up higher so it clears both the AC line and the coil cover. The Bob's can doesn't touch a thing.
Wayne
#49
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: March 27, 2014
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Posts: 919
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've posted this in a couple spots already, but I installed my Moroso with 25 kms/15mi on the car yesterday. There was already significant oil in the stock PCV line. Apologies for the bad cell pics...
I haven't driven it with the catch can in place yet, pretty much been thunderstorming since I picked the car up yesterday. Got the can and a few other things on.
I haven't driven it with the catch can in place yet, pretty much been thunderstorming since I picked the car up yesterday. Got the can and a few other things on.
#50
GT Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 11, 2014
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've posted this in a couple spots already, but I installed my Moroso with 25 kms/15mi on the car yesterday. There was already significant oil in the stock PCV line. Apologies for the bad cell pics...
I haven't driven it with the catch can in place yet, pretty much been thunderstorming since I picked the car up yesterday. Got the can and a few other things on.
I haven't driven it with the catch can in place yet, pretty much been thunderstorming since I picked the car up yesterday. Got the can and a few other things on.
#51
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: March 27, 2014
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Posts: 919
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#52
Well, tonight I went out to install my UPR can with the new diffuser. I took the Bob's can off and pulled out the quick connects from the hoses.
Looking into the end of the output hose that I had just pulled the quick connect out of, I saw no oil at all. It was completely dry. I looked inside the barbed end of the quick connect that had been inside the hose and ran a new Q-tip all the way around the inside of it and it came back completely white. No discoloration at all. I'm not sure what to think since I did get a slight discoloration on the Q-tip when running it inside the quick connect end. Maybe I forgot to clean that side out when I originally installed it. Maybe it's working even better than I thought.
I did drain the Bob's can and I had 1/2 ounce of oil in it in 1,300 miles. The oil didn't look like it had any water in it at all.
I ended up not installing the UPR can because when I went to mount it, I discovered the problem I was having before. The bottom of the can hits the coil cover and actually wore part of the knurled section on the edge of the can smooth and also wore a spot on the cover itself. It also rubs on the AC line that is there. I'm going to talk to UPR about making a bracket that holds the can up higher so it clears both the AC line and the coil cover. The Bob's can doesn't touch a thing.
Wayne
Looking into the end of the output hose that I had just pulled the quick connect out of, I saw no oil at all. It was completely dry. I looked inside the barbed end of the quick connect that had been inside the hose and ran a new Q-tip all the way around the inside of it and it came back completely white. No discoloration at all. I'm not sure what to think since I did get a slight discoloration on the Q-tip when running it inside the quick connect end. Maybe I forgot to clean that side out when I originally installed it. Maybe it's working even better than I thought.
I did drain the Bob's can and I had 1/2 ounce of oil in it in 1,300 miles. The oil didn't look like it had any water in it at all.
I ended up not installing the UPR can because when I went to mount it, I discovered the problem I was having before. The bottom of the can hits the coil cover and actually wore part of the knurled section on the edge of the can smooth and also wore a spot on the cover itself. It also rubs on the AC line that is there. I'm going to talk to UPR about making a bracket that holds the can up higher so it clears both the AC line and the coil cover. The Bob's can doesn't touch a thing.
Wayne
I actually did end up mounting my UPR can before my trip to Texas last week. I just got back today. I used the mounting bracket off of my Bob's can to mount the UPR can and it held it up high enough not to hit anything. Here is a picture of it mounted using the Bob's bracket.
I drove a total of 1,207 miles on the trip. Unfortunately the new diffuser and taking the SS mesh out of the output side of the can like UPR recommended, did not work to keep oil from making it to the intake. Here are a couple of pictures I took after I got home.
I also drained out the UPR can and got 5/8 of an oz of oil out in 1,207 miles vs the 4/8 of an oz of oil out in 1,300 miles on the Bob's can.
So it seems that the UPR catches more oil but still doesn't prevent oil from getting to the intake.
Wayne
Last edited by 70monte; 6/22/14 at 06:17 PM.
#53
GT Member
Join Date: February 11, 2012
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#54
Shelby GT350 Member
Join Date: May 6, 2012
Location: Crofton MD
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#55
GT Member
Join Date: February 11, 2012
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is the parts list:
Summit:
Fragola Performance Systems AN to Pipe Thread Fittings 481611-BL – 2 ea $4.97ea
Fragola Performance Systems Series 2000 Pro-Flow Hose Ends 220110-BL – 2ea $9.97ea
Fragola Performance Systems E-Z Clamp Hose Ends 280210 – 2ea $6.97ea
Ebay:
STAINLESS STEEL/NYLON BRAIDED 15KPSI AN10 BLACK OIL/FUEL LINE/HOSE FOOT/FEET – 3ft - $15
The can I used will not fit with the battery in place, where as the peterson setup will work with the battery in stock location. I moved my battery to trunk
Summit:
Fragola Performance Systems AN to Pipe Thread Fittings 481611-BL – 2 ea $4.97ea
Fragola Performance Systems Series 2000 Pro-Flow Hose Ends 220110-BL – 2ea $9.97ea
Fragola Performance Systems E-Z Clamp Hose Ends 280210 – 2ea $6.97ea
Ebay:
STAINLESS STEEL/NYLON BRAIDED 15KPSI AN10 BLACK OIL/FUEL LINE/HOSE FOOT/FEET – 3ft - $15
The can I used will not fit with the battery in place, where as the peterson setup will work with the battery in stock location. I moved my battery to trunk
#56
Shelby GT350 Member
Join Date: May 6, 2012
Location: Crofton MD
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is the parts list:
Summit:
Fragola Performance Systems AN to Pipe Thread Fittings 481611-BL – 2 ea $4.97ea
Fragola Performance Systems Series 2000 Pro-Flow Hose Ends 220110-BL – 2ea $9.97ea
Fragola Performance Systems E-Z Clamp Hose Ends 280210 – 2ea $6.97ea
Ebay:
STAINLESS STEEL/NYLON BRAIDED 15KPSI AN10 BLACK OIL/FUEL LINE/HOSE FOOT/FEET – 3ft - $15
The can I used will not fit with the battery in place, where as the peterson setup will work with the battery in stock location. I moved my battery to trunk
Summit:
Fragola Performance Systems AN to Pipe Thread Fittings 481611-BL – 2 ea $4.97ea
Fragola Performance Systems Series 2000 Pro-Flow Hose Ends 220110-BL – 2ea $9.97ea
Fragola Performance Systems E-Z Clamp Hose Ends 280210 – 2ea $6.97ea
Ebay:
STAINLESS STEEL/NYLON BRAIDED 15KPSI AN10 BLACK OIL/FUEL LINE/HOSE FOOT/FEET – 3ft - $15
The can I used will not fit with the battery in place, where as the peterson setup will work with the battery in stock location. I moved my battery to trunk
#57
I Have No Life
This is the parts list: Summit: Fragola Performance Systems AN to Pipe Thread Fittings 481611-BL – 2 ea $4.97ea Fragola Performance Systems Series 2000 Pro-Flow Hose Ends 220110-BL – 2ea $9.97ea Fragola Performance Systems E-Z Clamp Hose Ends 280210 – 2ea $6.97ea Ebay: STAINLESS STEEL/NYLON BRAIDED 15KPSI AN10 BLACK OIL/FUEL LINE/HOSE FOOT/FEET – 3ft - $15 The can I used will not fit with the battery in place, where as the peterson setup will work with the battery in stock location. I moved my battery to trunk
Last edited by FromZto5; 6/27/14 at 06:47 PM.
#58
GT Member
Join Date: November 25, 2013
Location: White Mountains NH
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Kudos to Ford for building our monster Coyote motor without direct injection. The real problems with blow by oil buildup developed with early direct injected motors due to the blow by oil not having treated fuel to clean the intake any longer. Most manufacturers of direct injected motors have added very sophisticated separators.
And that is why separators are a good solution for us as well. Not as critical for our Coyote but helpful.
And that is why separators are a good solution for us as well. Not as critical for our Coyote but helpful.
#59
What do you mean unless your supercharged ?