Overboost

Which dealer has that? That's not far from my house. PM me if you have to.

Guest123

Is that a dealership??

JAJ

OUCH! Sorry about the bad advice... darned Internet!

When I was looking at a bunch of other parts, their pricing was good and the shipping was reasonable. You're going to pay HST in any case if you import it legally, but the freight shouldn't be so punitive. I did order a bunch of stuff from them, but I've got a USA address, so it's going there. If I wasn't buying other USA stuff I'd have gone with the Canadian option, but I'm going south anyway so it doesn't matter.

Good luck!

OAC_Sparky

Now that my order is in I can spill the beans.

This is the price my order and their advertised prices:

AR3Z-16A550-AA R GT500 Mudflap ($21,70)
AR3Z-16A550-AB L GT500 Mudflap ($21.70)

BR3Z-7213-DA 401A **** ($107.24)
BR3Z-7277-B 401A Shifter Boot ($35.46)

BR3Z-15200-AA CS Front Fascia w/ Fogs ($279.20)
BR3Z-17626-B CS Front Fascia Filler (Stoneguard) ($110.42)
AR3Z-17F828-AA GT500 Rear Diffuser ($120)

Plus I got the GT500 mufflers: M-5230-MGTCA1, cheapest I found was from Stinger1984 for $285 but unfortunately he never got back to me.

My price for all these parts as a package: $960. This would have cost me $900 more in Canada after taxes.

Now normally if you have these shipped to you the shipping cost would be $110ish in the US. I have family and friends I am visiting in Windsor, so I'm driving the hour to Ann Arbor Mi to pick them up to save the shipping and associated importation fees. I'll still have to pay the tax at the border.

The dealership is Varsity Ford, their website is www.newfordparts.com

Daddyd, I don't know where you are in Canada still, but this is the cheapest way I've seen to get these parts. If you were in the GTA and you PMd me like I suggested a few days ago I could've picked the valance up for you, but you didn't.

OAC_Sparky

I import a lot of stuff, from computer and electronics parts to swords and knives (I have a collection) to guitars and guitar parts (we have 3 guitar players and 11 guitars in this house lol); the only way I've found to cheaply import stuff is to ship by US Post, but most people won't. UPS is the worst, they hit you with a large brokerage fee ON TOP of tax and any applicable duty. The only way to get around it is to ship air freight, which in the end is just as expensive.

Beware of Fedex and DHL, though. You may not pay a brokerage fee at the door but they'll send you a bill later. I had one before from Fedex, the package was damaged by Fedex so I refused shipment and the brokerage company STILL tried to collect. While I was disputing the charge they tried to end run and send it to a collection agency; I had to get my lawyer to send a cease and desist letter to get them to change their tune.

Shipping stuff by UPS is cheap within the States, though. Every border city has a depot, most of the time I just get the stuff shipped to Niagara Falls depot and drive the 45 mins to pick it up. I usually end up at least $50 ahead by the time I knock off the shipping and fill the tank in the truck up.

Overboost

I also ordered the CS fascia, without fogs, for $200 from them. I will be picking it up Friday.

JAJ

I got burned by UPS on an importation myself a few years ago - between freight and brokerage it was $200 on an $800 shipment. That's when I got my shipping address set up in Washington State and I've been importing my own stuff ever since.

There are a number of integrated service companies that started up in the last couple of years that bundle freight, brokerage and tax collection for online merchants so that a US merchant can ship to Canada without any hassles. Tire Rack uses one, and LRS offers this service too. When I was looking at about $1,000 worth of FRPP items, the freight and brokerage were about $115 or so, which I thought was reasonable for a heavy shipment. It was still more than shipping to WA, but it wasn't very much more, and it would save me having to drive for three hours and sit in line at the border (the Nexus Traveler Card limit is $500).

I'm looking at getting the GT/CS Fascia so I can install brake cooling. I've never seen any reference to the filler part below. What does it do?

Overboost

I just picked mine up from Varsity Ford in Ann Arbor. Parts dept. is very nice and they were very helpful. Definitely recommend them for parts if you need them.

That stone guard may or may not be the same as the one on the car stock. I will find that out later when I try to install mine.

OAC_Sparky

It's the stone guard that attaches to the bottom of the valance to the rad suppport. I'm not sure it's not the same as the on that comes stock on the GT but the number is different so I figured better safe than sorry.

And yes, I think you can run without it but it might mean the valance will flap a bit under speed.

Ivan 5.0

Aaaah, cool man, thanks for answering that. 'Preciate that!

Overboost

Just completed the install of mine. Took 40 minutes with a friend helping. Very simple, just need 7,8 mm sockets, 7mm wrench, and flat/Philips screwdriver.

As for the stoneguard, the bumper bolts into the stoneguard, and there was no issue with the CS vs. the stock bumper. I would say it's safe to say you don't need the additional part.

Here's a pic after the install:

2010MustangGT

^^ Looks good I like me some C/S front valances!

OAC_Sparky

Oh well, I guess I'll have a spare; like I said, better safe than sorry.

Looks great though; unfortunately it'll be a couple months before I can put mine on. lol

S197 GT

Looks great! Did you pull the bumper on your install?

Guest123

Yea I would also like to know If you have to pull the bumper for the install????

Overboost

Yes, I pulled the bumper to do the install. Removing it takes less than 10 minutes if you have a second set of hands. Remove (8) push pins holding the radiator cover, (2) 8mm bolts on the posts at the top of the grille, then (2) 7mm screws in each inner fender. Next, there are (4) 7mm bolts underneath the bumper which attach it to the stone guard. Remove the outside temp sensor from the lower grille, and unplug your side marker lenses and the bumper pulls away.

rodmoe

I'll chime in though i put a CDC unit on i had to take the bumper off to make sure the 3M tape would be warm enough to bond here in wisconsin it is below freezing and i had no heat in my garage .That said it just takes a lil time and a extra set of hands is nice but not needed if you understand when you pull the bumper off its going to sound like you are ripping something apart and it is going to want to fall face first on the ground. But as stated before only a few pins and bolts and i had to remove the engine block heater plug in from the lower grill again not a big thing you either unplug it near the radiator or unhook it from the lower grill via a rubber hook type thingy. To me doing it alone the hardest part was reinstalling the side marker lights and that was only because i had to figure out how to keep the bumper part way on to do this alone Should be a snap if you take your time and follow the instructions