Build List
#1
Build List
2013 Premium GT Auto
Doing a NA street strip build goal (500rwhp)
- Kooks LT with catted H-Pipe leaving my flowmaster axle backs (don't want fumes with offroad pipe)
- Steeda Suspension Kit
- Steeda CAI w/ tune (done)
- Nitto DR's not sure size yet or rims
Question Marks are These:
- Are there any reputable head & cam packages or is all of the power already being made here?
- Torque/Stall Converter I only see one available.
Comments / Critiques?!
Doing a NA street strip build goal (500rwhp)
- Kooks LT with catted H-Pipe leaving my flowmaster axle backs (don't want fumes with offroad pipe)
- Steeda Suspension Kit
- Steeda CAI w/ tune (done)
- Nitto DR's not sure size yet or rims
Question Marks are These:
- Are there any reputable head & cam packages or is all of the power already being made here?
- Torque/Stall Converter I only see one available.
Comments / Critiques?!
#2
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: August 3, 2011
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There are heads and cams out there but they're pretty expensive. You're on the right track with the converter. Currently Circle D is the only one that makes one but there's another one being tested and should be in the market soon and should be less expensive than the Circle D.
#3
2013 Premium GT Auto
Doing a NA street strip build goal (500rwhp)
- Kooks LT with catted H-Pipe leaving my flowmaster axle backs (don't want fumes with offroad pipe)
- Steeda Suspension Kit
- Steeda CAI w/ tune (done)
- Nitto DR's not sure size yet or rims
Question Marks are These:
- Are there any reputable head & cam packages or is all of the power already being made here?
- Torque/Stall Converter I only see one available.
Comments / Critiques?!
Doing a NA street strip build goal (500rwhp)
- Kooks LT with catted H-Pipe leaving my flowmaster axle backs (don't want fumes with offroad pipe)
- Steeda Suspension Kit
- Steeda CAI w/ tune (done)
- Nitto DR's not sure size yet or rims
Question Marks are These:
- Are there any reputable head & cam packages or is all of the power already being made here?
- Torque/Stall Converter I only see one available.
Comments / Critiques?!
So far with the mods you have listed you may get to 400 rwhp. Not sure if head and cam packages will get you to 500 rwhp but a modest boost supercharger will get the job done.
#4
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#5
#6
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you can do the heads and cams...but in the end a blower will net you more power for much cheaper. you are looking 1600 for the cams, 3000+ for ported polished and assembled heads and then still have the labor and dyno costs. and you would have to spin the motor past 7500 to get close to the 500rwhp mark. While the stock internals will do it...playing with borrowed time expecially on 93 octane
#7
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https://themustangsource.com/f800/52...octane-509010/
heres a link to another members car and what he did to get to 522 at the wheels. And his car is a manual...auto would be a bit less at the wheels
heres a link to another members car and what he did to get to 522 at the wheels. And his car is a manual...auto would be a bit less at the wheels
#8
Cobra Member
Originally Posted by conv_stang
https://themustangsource.com/f800/52...octane-509010/
heres a link to another members car and what he did to get to 522 at the wheels. And his car is a manual...auto would be a bit less at the wheels
heres a link to another members car and what he did to get to 522 at the wheels. And his car is a manual...auto would be a bit less at the wheels
A tuned Auto, with a Circle D and drag radials is an 11.20- 11.30 car. The Autos are stupid fast back to back to back. Manuals get a good time and they think they cured cancer because it doesn't happen 2 in a row with the pos MT82.
Last edited by 2012GT; 2/17/13 at 10:07 PM.
#9
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Thats b/c we have to actually drive the car not put it in drive and press the gas like grandma
but yes the auto's will destroy us manual guys all day long
but yes the auto's will destroy us manual guys all day long
#10
Cobra Member
Originally Posted by conv_stang
Thats b/c we have to actually drive the car not put it in drive and press the gas like grandma
but yes the auto's will destroy us manual guys all day long
but yes the auto's will destroy us manual guys all day long
#11
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I used to be a diehard manual guy too don't get me wrong. Once I realized that my driving ability was having nothing to do with losing races, I put my ego in the backseat. I like winning alot more than rowing through gears praying she goes in 3rd or 4th. The new autos are surprisingly fun.
#12
Cobra Member
Originally Posted by conv_stang
i was just giving you a hard time. If I tracked my car more. I wouldve definitely went with the auto. But most of my time is just driving it and I still like rowing my own gears.
Last edited by 2012GT; 2/18/13 at 12:19 AM.
#13
Blackstang13,
If you want to make 500whp, you might be better off going forced induction than NA, it can be done NA, but the cams and supporting work can make it hard to tune and maintain good street manners and driveablity.
Kooks are great, fitment and performance is top-notch. Whether NA or forced they are a good choice.
Steeds is glad to help with the suspension and intake package whenever you are ready.
Once you figure out the wheels you can decide on tires, Matt Levine with Steeda would recommend going with Nitto NT05R’s, they have excellent traction and performance.
In the long term forced induction will be more reliable, perform better, and last longer.
Please email me if I can put you in touch with Matt Levine and we can get you started with your build. My email address is tim@steeda.com.
Best Regards,
TJ
If you want to make 500whp, you might be better off going forced induction than NA, it can be done NA, but the cams and supporting work can make it hard to tune and maintain good street manners and driveablity.
Kooks are great, fitment and performance is top-notch. Whether NA or forced they are a good choice.
Steeds is glad to help with the suspension and intake package whenever you are ready.
Once you figure out the wheels you can decide on tires, Matt Levine with Steeda would recommend going with Nitto NT05R’s, they have excellent traction and performance.
In the long term forced induction will be more reliable, perform better, and last longer.
Please email me if I can put you in touch with Matt Levine and we can get you started with your build. My email address is tim@steeda.com.
Best Regards,
TJ
#14
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I definitely understand that. I miss dropping it in 3rd or 2nd on the highway sometimes myself. I have only tracked my car once when I borrowed some DR's. I went 12.18-12.25 on 4/4 runs with just a Steeda 93 tune, steeda CAI and DRs. I know with the same mods a manual can go 11.90s by sidestepping the clutch at 6k with a perfect run through the gears. However, it's usually backed up by a 13.50. I know if I line up with any car what mine is going to do each and every time. If i line up with a Zo6, he better not miss a gear.
#15
I agree that the automatics are a little quicker and more consistent than the manuals day in and day out. However, it is not impossible for a manual transmisson to be reasonably consistent. BTW, I am replacing my 2011 GT 6MT with a 2014 GT 6A so I am a believer.
Making these three 6MT passes back to back surpassed my goals with my 6M transmission. Since I am now 70 I am not sure how much longer I will want to shift gears thus helping me make my decision to go with the automatic. My mods at the time of these three passes were:
Steeda CAI, Lethal cat delete offroad exhaust, SCT Dynojet tune (419 rwhp), AM shifter w/Barton 2 pc shifting bracket, GT 500 mufflers and a borrowed set of M/T drag radials.
I am told that I lifted the left front tire off the ground on each of these passes. Wish I had a video.
At the same time my friends with automatics and the same mods as me were running 11.88's.
Making these three 6MT passes back to back surpassed my goals with my 6M transmission. Since I am now 70 I am not sure how much longer I will want to shift gears thus helping me make my decision to go with the automatic. My mods at the time of these three passes were:
Steeda CAI, Lethal cat delete offroad exhaust, SCT Dynojet tune (419 rwhp), AM shifter w/Barton 2 pc shifting bracket, GT 500 mufflers and a borrowed set of M/T drag radials.
I am told that I lifted the left front tire off the ground on each of these passes. Wish I had a video.
At the same time my friends with automatics and the same mods as me were running 11.88's.
Last edited by 32Fountain; 2/18/13 at 11:49 AM. Reason: additonal information
#16
[QUOTE=tj@steeda;6557004]Blackstang13,
In the long term forced induction will be more reliable, perform better, and last longer.
Concerned with where I live and using a blower. It runs at least 100 in the summer here and summers are from April to September and the altitudes from 2k to 5k+ above sea level. Not sure if that matters on the Stangs but it does on most blowers here.
Anyway I am pretty decided on exhaust with Kooks and high flow cats staying with the X pipe and will be installing at the end of the month. Suspension I should start at the end of March as I am not sure on rims as the stock 8.5 rims aren't big enough for tires in the rear and I want to do suspension and tires together if possible.
In the long term forced induction will be more reliable, perform better, and last longer.
Concerned with where I live and using a blower. It runs at least 100 in the summer here and summers are from April to September and the altitudes from 2k to 5k+ above sea level. Not sure if that matters on the Stangs but it does on most blowers here.
Anyway I am pretty decided on exhaust with Kooks and high flow cats staying with the X pipe and will be installing at the end of the month. Suspension I should start at the end of March as I am not sure on rims as the stock 8.5 rims aren't big enough for tires in the rear and I want to do suspension and tires together if possible.
#17
Don't dyno race your car. Your 385 rwhp Auto will smoke 400+ rwhp manual cars at the track 9 out of 10 times. With a circle D, you're unbeatable, a manual isn't close . Forget about 500 rwhp NA, aint happening. Plus there's no purpose other than to say "I have 500 rwhp". Sounds like something a guy in a Supra would say. "I have 700 rwhp".... and he still only runs high 12s.
A tuned Auto, with a Circle D and drag radials is an 11.20- 11.30 car. The Autos are stupid fast back to back to back. Manuals get a good time and they think they cured cancer because it doesn't happen 2 in a row with the pos MT82.
A tuned Auto, with a Circle D and drag radials is an 11.20- 11.30 car. The Autos are stupid fast back to back to back. Manuals get a good time and they think they cured cancer because it doesn't happen 2 in a row with the pos MT82.
#18
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It can be done if you are willing to pay for it. Just don't think the stock bottom end on the GT is upto it for longevity. It is strong but I just don't think it can handle the rpms. There are plenty of companies that can get you there. If that's what your goal is then go for it man.
#20
It can be done if you are willing to pay for it. Just don't think the stock bottom end on the GT is upto it for longevity. It is strong but I just don't think it can handle the rpms. There are plenty of companies that can get you there. If that's what your goal is then go for it man.
I appreciate the help and I will start posting pics and sound clips soon.