J Tennu

Long story short... need new rotors and pads due to accidentally leaving ADVANCETRAC fully engaged during extended spirited driving stint("SERVICE ADVANCETRAC/ABS/TC OFF" lights all came on!). The main problem is from the rear driver-side rotor/pads. Sounds like the pads are fried and rotor is warped back there. The front set-up seems just fine.

I'm looking for good quality rotor and pad replacements for the street, primarily. How are Hawk HPS, Carbotech Bobcat 1521's, PFC Z-Rated, Porterfield R4-S, etc.? DBA 5000/4000 Series rotors? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

'Originally Posted by steveespo
Left rear seems to be the wheel that stability control uses the brake on most to control wheel spin and yaw. If you drive the car hard with TC on you will use up that brake. Discovered this when I was road racing and keeping Advance Track on as a safety net. Left rear would always be red hot.
Steve'

Brandon302

HPS's are great pads IMO. They aren't very dusty, they don't squeal, and they are pretty good pads to use on a road course.

J Tennu

Thanks. Funny thing is that I have Hawk HPS(front/rear) pads on stand-by... was planning to install them with a set of DBA 5000/4000 Series rotors, but had to change rear pads and rotors in a hurry at 16k miles... so I installed OEM pads/rotors, again. Now, at over 21k miles and left-rear rotor/pads are toast!

TheDivaDanielle

While you're replacing pads and rotors, replace the caliper bracket with the caliper bracket thats on the '13-'14 GT500s. Gain an extra inch out back of brake size for next to nothin'

PJRManagement

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Danielle - can you please explain this a little more? It may be for me...

TheDivaDanielle

2013 GT500's have larger brakes than the prior year. While the fronts are entirely new 6-piston calipers, the rears are simply larger rotors, and a caliper bracket that mounts the same, unchanged rear caliper 1" out further.

PJRManagement

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I know about the fronts (pretty awesome improvement BTW). But for the rear, how can a bracket that changes its mount 1" further out help with increase swept area and performance? And, would simply changing the bracket (while keeping the OEM GT rotors, calipers, & pads) make an improvement? You've got me curious!

11SHELBYGT500

She's talking about getting the larger rotor and you'd have to get the larger caliper too

TheDivaDanielle

well for one, they'd be able to more easily brake and dissipate heat. they wouldn't have to work as hard doing the same job as a rotor say... that was only 10" in diameter

PJRManagement

OK, that explains it. I mis-understood. I read it as you can simply change the rear caliper BRACKET (only) and get all the gains. Of course a larger rotor, caliper, and pad will be an improvement. My bad.

TheDivaDanielle

no need to change the caliper. that's why this is awesome. you'll already need rotors and pads anyway, so it's not that much more to also get new caliper brackets.

11SHELBYGT500

That doesn't make sense, if you're going with a larger rotor, a larger caliper would be necessary or it's pointless.

TheDivaDanielle

uh... nooo.

for example GM Perfromance Parts sold (and probably sells this still)



what is it? a front brake upgrade kit for their w-body chassis cars. same caliper, but different caliper brackets, and 1" larger rotors.

I remember installing it, on my GTP PaceCar and the braking ability did change. the brakes didn't fade easily, and they had more bite due to more clamping ability/less resistance from a larger diameter to slow the discs.

Granted this was for the front. The rears on a Mustang don't do THAT much (i think 30%) of the overall braking, but it's still a worthwhile upgrade seeing that it's cheap.

11SHELBYGT500

Don't buy everything you read. They sell this kind of stuff to people who don't know better.

TheDivaDanielle

When went did Ford even bother for 2013? Hmmmm.?

11SHELBYGT500

Are they using the same calipers

Ross

Same caliper. The only downside I see is more rotating mass from the larger rotor, and potentially disrupting the brake bias. OP spend a couple of extra bucks and get Brembo rear rotors. I think you want a softer rear pad than the front, not the same hardness.

J Tennu

This is very interesting... I'm going to take a closer look at this.

I'll gladly sacrifice a little extra rotating mass if this can handle more abuse due to wheel-spin/yaw control sensing loads. How can this disrupt the brake bias? I thought I may have already adversely affected brake bias by lowering the car(change in suspension geometry/weight transfer... less brake dive...). I'm not sure, but it seems as if the rear brakes are working more now than in stock form.

I'll look into seeing what Brembo has to offer in rotor sizes. A softer rear pad? I may need an example. Thanks.

Brandon302

I think a softer rear pad will just cause the pad to wear out quicker if your running with full ESC on. I would try running sport mode instead so you aren't cooking your brakes, also take the dust shield off.

J Tennu

That was my huge mistake. Turned off car, then a bit later I started her back up and went back out forgetting to engage SPORT MODE or turn off any other driver aids. I may have to get those sensors back there checked out, too. Dash lights lit up like a Christmas tree! I'm wondering if the Wavetrac torque biasing rear diff added to the equation...