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Roush Calibration

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Old 6/20/18, 01:43 PM
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Roush Calibration

Does anybody know how to get the module ID, module info, calibration ID or software number from a 2013 Roush? I have an ELM327 OBD2 reader and I also have Forscan (lite). My OBD2 reader is HSCAN only. Can I get the information Roush needs by upgrading to the OBD2 reader to HSCAN and MSCAN? I know the MSCAN allows you to do programming on the F150 trucks with Forscan, but will I be able to see the above info on the Mustang?


I posted about my car intermittently stalling when the clutch pedal is pushed in. Roush is wondering if it's in the calibration, and they have no record of any updates ever being applied to this car. Since the car is used, it's possible the original owner tuned the car with an aftermarket tune and Roush can't help me unless they know it's got their tune. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 6/20/18, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmoyer View Post
Does anybody know how to get the module ID, module info, calibration ID or software number from a 2013 Roush? I have an ELM327 OBD2 reader and I also have Forscan (lite). My OBD2 reader is HSCAN only. Can I get the information Roush needs by upgrading to the OBD2 reader to HSCAN and MSCAN? I know the MSCAN allows you to do programming on the F150 trucks with Forscan, but will I be able to see the above info on the Mustang?


I posted about my car intermittently stalling when the clutch pedal is pushed in. Roush is wondering if it's in the calibration, and they have no record of any updates ever being applied to this car. Since the car is used, it's possible the original owner tuned the car with an aftermarket tune and Roush can't help me unless they know it's got their tune. Any help is appreciated.
I'm pretty sure you have to take it to a certified Roush dealership to confirm that it is truly a Roush tune. I think they use a special dongle/software to upload/download tunes.
Good luck Scott!
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Old 6/20/18, 05:33 PM
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I called Tindol Ford in NC and they provided some input also stating that it sounds tune related. Tindol Ford works with Roush on the design and development of the Roush cars and they know these cars. They provided me the name of a dealership in Daytona that they'll work with to troubleshoot the issue, if needed.

The first thought they had is that if Roush has no record of the calibration for my car other than what it was built with, then the Phase 3 kit was installed by a dealer that didn't do the software update to go with it. When you purchase the phase 3 kit, you get a voucher for an updated tune. If Roush has no record of that tune, was it done?
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Old 6/21/18, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmoyer View Post
I called Tindol Ford in NC and they provided some input also stating that it sounds tune related. Tindol Ford works with Roush on the design and development of the Roush cars and they know these cars. They provided me the name of a dealership in Daytona that they'll work with to troubleshoot the issue, if needed.

The first thought they had is that if Roush has no record of the calibration for my car other than what it was built with, then the Phase 3 kit was installed by a dealer that didn't do the software update to go with it. When you purchase the phase 3 kit, you get a voucher for an updated tune. If Roush has no record of that tune, was it done?
That is true. If you have the Phase 3 car, you need the Phase 3 tune.
I would check with Roush. Give them your VIN and they should be able to check it for you.
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Old 6/21/18, 05:34 PM
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Spoke with Gavin today at Roush. He stated that the '13 Phase 3 cars are not documented properly. He said that if they were Aluminator packages or Roush installed Phase 3 kits, they have the info, but if it was a dealer or even Internet purchase of the parts, they don't don't have that information. I asked about the voucher being applied to the VIN and he said that it wasn't the case in '13, but was in 2014.

I mentioned in another post about my brakes not working as well as I thought. Today, my son said he locked up the brakes and didn't have any ABS reaction. That got me to thinking that if I have a vacuum leak, the car won't run smooth, could stall, the brake booster wouldn't build the proper vacuum leaving me with manual brakes! By George, I think I found it. Now to find the leak.
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Old 7/10/18, 07:05 PM
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Hey Scott any luck with your car?
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Old 7/10/18, 08:06 PM
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Nothing yet.I spoke with Chris at Roush and he asked me to overnight the computer to him and he'll figure it out and overnight it back. Thinking about taking it out and shipping it tomorrow.

My son took the car to Mastiff Performance today and they said that it does not perform like a car of this caliber should. They suggested that we send the computer to Roush, and while the car is out of service, replace the spark plugs. They mentioned that they've seen massive power loss with poor plugs, so I'll try to address that this week.

They also test drove the car and said the brakes feel fine. They said the Brembo brakes don't provide the anti-lock shutter feel that other cars have. Unless I feel this for myself in another performance pack '13/'14, I won't believe it. I still think the brakes are too hard to press, like they don't have much assist to them. This is the second shop that said this.
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Old 7/11/18, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmoyer View Post
Nothing yet.I spoke with Chris at Roush and he asked me to overnight the computer to him and he'll figure it out and overnight it back. Thinking about taking it out and shipping it tomorrow.
My son took the car to Mastiff Performance today and they said that it does not perform like a car of this caliber should. They suggested that we send the computer to Roush, and while the car is out of service, replace the spark plugs. They mentioned that they've seen massive power loss with poor plugs, so I'll try to address that this week.
They also test drove the car and said the brakes feel fine. They said the Brembo brakes don't provide the anti-lock shutter feel that other cars have. Unless I feel this for myself in another performance pack '13/'14, I won't believe it. I still think the brakes are too hard to press, like they don't have much assist to them. This is the second shop that said this.
Good luck man.
You're probably itching to drive the car too.
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Old 7/13/18, 08:48 AM
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Drove the car last night. Now I might have a couple new issues! We replaced the plugs with NGK plugs and gapped them to .028, per multiple sources. The car seemed to run smoother and accelerate smoother, but it didn't fix the stalling issue. Decelerating to a red light and the clutch applied, the RPMs dropped until the car died. It started right up, so no issue there, but then the advanced trac light was on! After a few minutes, it went off. I need to check this.

Next, when getting ready to push the clutch in to shift, there was no clutch. The pedal was already sitting on the floor. After pumping the pedal a few times, it remained on the floor until it was manually pulled back up. It worked fine since.

I really don't like buying used cars, and this is why!!!
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Old 7/13/18, 10:09 AM
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On thge Advanced Trac issue - did you cycle the ignition switch off before restarting? When mine stalled due to dirty throttle body, I would get that warning if I simply restarted without turning the key to off first.
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Old 7/13/18, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmoyer View Post
Drove the car last night. Now I might have a couple new issues! We replaced the plugs with NGK plugs and gapped them to .028, per multiple sources. The car seemed to run smoother and accelerate smoother, but it didn't fix the stalling issue. Decelerating to a red light and the clutch applied, the RPMs dropped until the car died. It started right up, so no issue there, but then the advanced trac light was on! After a few minutes, it went off. I need to check this.
Next, when getting ready to push the clutch in to shift, there was no clutch. The pedal was already sitting on the floor. After pumping the pedal a few times, it remained on the floor until it was manually pulled back up. It worked fine since.
I really don't like buying used cars, and this is why!!!
Holy crap!!! That sucks man. Yeah,....I'm not a believer in buying used, especially muscle cars/sports cars. I hope you get it all figured out.
Is there a warranty for this car? Cannot you talk to the dealership that sold you the car?
Good luck Scott.
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Old 7/14/18, 05:51 PM
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Finally convinced my son that we need to pay service to figure out what's wrong with the car. We found a 2014 Stage 3 at a local dealership and we test drove it and determined that there is something wrong with the brake system. I keep telling him they feel like manual brakes, but two shops, one being a performance shop, said the brakes were fine. After driving that car, he acknowledged that I was right!! Sometimes the kids just gotta listen to the old man!

I was also very disappointed in the car we drove today. It had 34k miles on it and it felt very slow. My old '14 GT felt faster. Based on the performance of that car, we determined that we do have the full phase 3 option and the tune, and it might just need to be updated. The phase 3 will throw you back in the seat and will also brake the tires loose easily in 3rd gear. The one we drove today didn't feel like it could break loose unless we turned off traction control.

I've heard the Roush tunes were weak, but that was really bad.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...odelCode1=MUST
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Old 7/15/18, 08:43 AM
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That sucks Scott. I hope you get it all figured out soon.
Roush tunes don't suck, they're just on the conservative side. The Phase 3 that you have is still a Roush tune, just turned up. lol My car will throw you back in your seat in 3rd and in 4th gear bad!! I love it.
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Old 7/15/18, 09:41 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. Actually, I don't know if we have the Phase 3 tune. I'm assuming we do, but we haven't gotten the calibration info from the computer yet to know if the tune is Roush's.

Regarding the clutch issues, and the braking issues, I think I might just replace the booster. Not being a mechanic, I know the clutch is hydraulic, but doesn't it use vacuum just like the brakes? Maybe my booster is bad.
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Old 7/16/18, 08:13 AM
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Scott, may I ask if you bought your car private sale or from a dealership?
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Old 7/16/18, 03:59 PM
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Private sale. The guy I bought the car from doesn't seem to be much of a car guy, but just wanted a fast car, so i won't blame him for trying to unload a problem. He probably doesn't know much about this thing.

I could also be very naive!!
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Old 7/16/18, 04:57 PM
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Have you overnighted the computer to Roush yet?


Another option would be to get it tuned by experienced operator like;


http://www.brenspeed.com/


https://www.vmpperformance.com/


http://www.teamjdm.com/


These are just the names I know that specialize in these cars, I'm sure there are others that I am unaware of.


If you have one nearby getting tuned on their dyno is your best option but they can all do a remote tune option.

Last edited by Fawls; 7/20/18 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 7/29/18, 05:36 PM
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Update...Still haven't sent the computer to Roush due to the car being used daily. We have noticed, however, that the car has woken up since we replaced the spark plugs. We've also started going to a different gas station for fill ups. The car hasn't stalled with the new gas and it pulls really strong. I was a passenger in the car and my son got on it. I could feel my innards sucked back into the seat!!!

We had an opportunity to take the car to a performance shop and get a couple dyno pulls. Unfortunately, the weather was really bad with heavy rains and a very wet environment. A friend of ours has a Lexus that has pulled over 800hp on this same dyno (Mustang Dyno), but only pulled 698 last night with no changes. The shop said the difference was because of how wet it was and the wet tires. So, when we ran our car, we pulled 586hp in a 4th gear pull. Not as good as we expected, but following the Lexus, we blamed the low numbers on the weather and spinning on the dyno. At least we know the car does have the Phase 3 and was running well.

As to the brakes, they just started working. My son took the car to a friend of mine that builds race cars and engines. He called me and said the brakes felt fine to him. I took the car for a drive and slammed on the brakes and the ABS activated and the car came to a halt. I wonder if there was an air pocket in the system somewhere that is now released.
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Old 7/30/18, 04:58 AM
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Mustang dynos give 10-15% lower numbers than a Dynojet.
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Old 7/30/18, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmoyer View Post
Update...Still haven't sent the computer to Roush due to the car being used daily. We have noticed, however, that the car has woken up since we replaced the spark plugs. We've also started going to a different gas station for fill ups. The car hasn't stalled with the new gas and it pulls really strong. I was a passenger in the car and my son got on it. I could feel my innards sucked back into the seat!!!

We had an opportunity to take the car to a performance shop and get a couple dyno pulls. Unfortunately, the weather was really bad with heavy rains and a very wet environment. A friend of ours has a Lexus that has pulled over 800hp on this same dyno (Mustang Dyno), but only pulled 698 last night with no changes. The shop said the difference was because of how wet it was and the wet tires. So, when we ran our car, we pulled 586hp in a 4th gear pull. Not as good as we expected, but following the Lexus, we blamed the low numbers on the weather and spinning on the dyno. At least we know the car does have the Phase 3 and was running well.

As to the brakes, they just started working. My son took the car to a friend of mine that builds race cars and engines. He called me and said the brakes felt fine to him. I took the car for a drive and slammed on the brakes and the ABS activated and the car came to a halt. I wonder if there was an air pocket in the system somewhere that is now released.
So good to hear Scott!!!
Enjoy that Roush!

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