Should there be rust on the rear axle of a car (V6 automatic) less than a year old? I'm not talking just little spots like on a brake rotor but completely covering the rear axle.
Does anyone know if Ford treats this with any kind of rust inhibitor at the factory? Should this be something to take to the dealer or be worried about? Anyone else have this type of problem/taken theirs to the dealer for this? :scratch:

 

The rear axles aren't painted and will rust eventually. They are thick steel so there is no issue here.

I personally am going to paint my rear axle housing once the weather gets warmer.

 

I have surface rust on mine. Not a big deal.

 

metal`s rust nothing you can do unless you paint them....

 

OK, if I want to paint them what kind of paint should I use? Is there something that'll eliminate the rust (short of hours with a scotch-brite pad). Where do I get it? How do I do it without taking out the axle? Sorry, I'm not too mechanically inclined so this is all new to me. I don't have a lift so the only way I know to do it I guess is to crawl under the car :scratch: I guess I'll figure out a way to make the painting part happen--just let me know what type of stuff to get. Thanks for all the info amigos!! You RULE! :worship:

 

My Rear axle is rusty too. I just took a scotch-brite pad, sanded it all down. Then i used POR-15 black paint. It comes in a pint or quart can and you brush it on. Its the best stuff in the world to use on top of rust. Just dont get it on your skin.

 

where do you buy POR-15?

 

it really is the best........o and what he daid don`t get it on your skin you yourself will also be painted for a few day`s and maybe a week or 2.......
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where do you buy POR-15?

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i find it at my local speed shop by the engine paints..........

 

You might also want to check out Zero Rust. Designed to go over rust, works just as well or better, easier to use (won't eat skin), can get it in rattle cans and it's cheaper! Can be hard to find, do an internet search. I did the entire underside of my 66 GT with this stuff and it's very tough.

 

THE DAY AFTER I TOOK DELIVERY I PAINTED MY ENTIRE REAR AXLE WITH GLOSS BLACK RUST PAINT. THIS IS AVAILABLE ANYWHERE AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO APPLY IT NOW ALSO. jUST WIPE DOWN ENTIRE AXLE TO REMOVE ANY DUST OR DIRT AND APPLY A GOOD COAT. THE RESULTS ARE AMAZING.

 

EDIT- hey admin: I just noticed this thread moved from 'issues' to 'appearance', but its kinda both/kinda neither...any chance of adding another branch for 'durability concerns' or something like that? the underbody sealing/paint is not for cosmetics, nor performance, but theres a lot of things that could help the car live longer...



+1 for POR15...

but- suggest getting "ospho", or "metalprep" or whatever brand phosphoric acid you can find, wipe down with that, rinse ,rinse,rinse, and once its REAL dry, POR-15 it. Phosphoric acid converts iron oxide to iron phosphate, and it wont creep under the paint(although not much will get under POR anyway- hard as heck...acid sounds harsh, but its actually kinda mild- it will burn skin I'm sure, but have had it on hands/arms, just tingles enoght to get your attention to rinse it off- its not like battery acid...just have to rinse REALLY well to neutralize it so the paint will bite.

Driveshaft is bare too- but if painting, I would suggest the acid etch/then spraypaint, because if you brush the driveshaft, you might affect balance...that things cranking about 3k on the highway, even a slight imbalance might get you some vibration.

I use a cheep spray bottle for the metalprep(mark it well and keep away from kids!), just dont breathe it or get it in your eyes- goggles a must(same for POR- it does NOT come off skin- cant imagine getting in eyes...) I usually have a fan sucking away from where I'm working so no mist to breathe too.

look in here at 'might want to look under your car' thread- I found a LOT of missed spots in my seam sealer, and I question the reasoning behind the little 'dirt scoop' in front of rear wheels that leads into inacessible rocker panel...I sealed mine up last night, going to put 'roll-on bedliner' in stone chip prone outer wheelhouse- if you look factory undercoat is only 'where you can see it' with tire on- pull tire and look up- outer half has nothing but paint. Also found passenger side undercoat missed about a foot long/4" wide swath up above tire...somebodys not paying close attention on the line...

As much as I hate mudflaps I put them on a couple nights ago- only got 300 miles on the car, but last time out just driving home from carwash had a mess behind all 4 tires...went back tonight and got a set of 'truck' flaps to cutup and hide up under wheelwells in rear to keep the mud/dirt from up around fuel tube/muffler areas...will cut for loose fit so they wont rub anything, and sandwich uner mudflaps...wont be able to see unless looking under...BTW- front flaps I attached with the original rocker pegs- nice and tight, no drilling required(had to drill 3 holes per side into plastic in rear- used one original screw, two into black plastic bumper support, and one hole at very bottom of bumper lip(painted part)...hated to do that one, but if not I think it mighta flapped and rubbed the paint anyway.

 

I took a pic to preserve it forever!

 

What would you recommend, the black/semi-gloss, I'm assuming POR-15 doesn't need a top coat with the Clear POR-15? And is the Metal-prep they speak of on their site "suggest getting "ospho", or "metalprep" or whatever brand phosphoric acid"

Thanks,

 

I am still perplexed as to why they never painted this. Every other live axle ford makes is painted

 

to save 50 cents a car

I have used POR 15, and while I do think it is an OK product, I don't think I will buy it again.

I may remove the rear housing and just give it a good cleaning, prepping and paint.

 

Just get rusty jones

 

Why would you not buy it again? Is it too messy to deal with? What would you paint your axle with? I was actually thinking Tremclad Rust paint. But the thing that drew me to the POR 15, is it sounds really tough, I would think rust paint would just chip.

 

Ben,

I used the POR 15 kit on my '66 Galaxie project and just didn't think the results were worth the cost/prep time. It is messy and a pain in the rear to clean. The only product I really liked was the metal prep product which is a phosphoric acid based liquid that leaves a zinc phosphate coating.

If I am going to do this, i'll probably use that type of prep-solvent and either get some gloss tremclad or semi gloss paint from the eastwood company.