For those that are using a float charger or maintainer for their Mustang, I would like to know how you are connecting it.

I thought about keeping the hood propped open, but the use of a single prop rod makes me wonder if the hood would bend itself out of alignment if I kept it open for 6 months straight. I have an old Fox T-bird (1981) that uses the prop rod and the hood sits unevenly when properly latched (due to some misalignment from years of opening/closing the hood). My other car (00 Crown Vic) has a pair of gas struts that supports the hood evenly, so I don't have any problems keeping the hood open for 6-12 months at a time.

I thought about hard-wiring (or at least using the ring-terminal leads) my black and decker 2A maintainer, but I'm skeptical about keeping the harness attached to the battery. The harness certainly doesn't appear to meet OEM standards for use in an engine compartment. The last thing I want is the harness to short out while I'm driving far away from home.

The cigarette plug connector seems very logical, except jamming the wires in between the door seals seems like an easy way to distort the door seals.

I'm open to suggestions!

 

You could connect it straight to the battery, as normal. Then close the hood, just not all the way. That way it would be resting on the latch, like it normally would and not distort anything.

 

Charlie, with my NAPA maintainer. I just connect the (+) ring terminal to the terminal lead, connected underneath the main fuse box cover. Then connect the (-) ring terminal to the terminal lead connected at the strut tower post. This way, you won't need to keep your hood open.

I'm really not familiar with the Black & Decker maintainer, but other than the positive and negative terminal wires. My NAPA maintainer doesn't require an additional wiring harness.

Anyway, hope you'll find this useful..

 

Rocky: Can you explain a little more on how you connected the positive terminal? Is there a cover exposing the terminal lead in the fuse box?

 

Charlie: all I did was remove the cover from the main fuse box. Then followed the wiring harness down past the strut tower post, until locating the terminal lead right behind the fuses, facing the strut tower side..

As soon as you remove the cover.. just look down, and you'll find it..

Here's some pics to illustrate..

 

I use a Black and Decker Float Charger. It comes with the ring terminals that you attach to your battery and then you just plug it in when ever you want to use it. Here is a link.

http://www.blackanddecker.com/Produc...roductID=15572

 

For the past two winters I've used a Ctek charger. I permanently attached the pigtail to the battery, which tucks out of the way behind the battery when not in use. The charger is small enough that it fits next to the fuse box. Then I simply drop the power cord down through the engine compartment to the floor and hook it up to an extention cord. The hood closes all the way, the car cover goes on and It's good till spring.

 

It really isn't necessary to attach the ring terminals directly to the battery..

Just attach the (-) ring terminal to the terminal lead connected at the strut tower..Then attach the (+) ring terminal to the terminal lead connected inside the fuse box..

 

Rocky: Where do you keep that harness when the charger isn't connected? I'm kind of afraid that water or something might short out the leads.

 

Charlie: there's no wiring harness involved. The pics I posted, are the factory terminal cables, in which the (-) terminal cable is connected directly from the battery, to the strut tower location. While the (+) terminal cable is connected directly from the battery, to the fuse box.

All you need to do is..Disconnect the negative terminal cable, at the strut tower location. Then attach your (-) ring terminal wire on top of the terminal cable lead, then re-attach both the ring terminal, and cable to the strut tower. Then disconnect your positive terminal cable at the fuse box, attach your (+) ring terminal wire, on top of the terminal cable lead, and then re-attach both the ring terminal, and cable to the fuse box..

I've ran mine like this for nearly 2 years, and haven't experienced any problems with water..

 

So where are you storing the wire harness/connector and how are you preventing it from shorting out due to water intrusion?

 

Charlie: my NAPA maintainer includes only red and black terminal wires, along with the AC plug. As I mentioned before, the unit's ring terminal wires are attached directly to the factory terminal cables, mounted at the strut tower, and fuse box locations.

As for the unit itself. It stays mounted along side the strut tower, opposite the fuse box..There's already an exsisting hole, so there's no need for drilling an additional one.

Although, I usually don't drive my Stang in wet weather conditions. I'll either wrap the entire unit in plastic, or I'll just un-install it altogether.

Being as the unit's ring terminal wires, are attached directly to the factory cable terminals. There's really no need to worry about water causing them to short out.

Besides.. as long as the unit itself is un-plugged while the vehicle is running.. Water cannot short out the leads anyhow.

Just make sure you dry the leads off, before plugging the unit in, and you'll be just fine.

I'd post some better pics, but my camera battery just died. So I'll have to post some older ones instead.

If your able to zoom the image size..You'll notice exactly where I have the unit mounted.

Anyway, hope this helps out Charlie..