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A/C High Pressure Safety Valve

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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 06:22 PM
  #1  
GATORB8's Avatar
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From: Chicago
A/C High Pressure Safety Valve

Anyone have any experience replacing the High Pressure Safety Valve on the A/C?

Our 06 6 will blow refrigerant out of the valve as soon as the compressor kicks on, even with refrigerant withing acceptable pressures on the low side once the compressor is going. It looks to be part #F65Z19D644AA (Motorcraft YF-52) and seems to be part of the Compressor and Manifold Tube Assembly. Anyone know if this is replaceable by itself? Alldata and the iihs manual are missing the service procedure fro the valve itself.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #2  
Planeswalker's Avatar
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From: OKC, OK
Does the relief valve blow as soon as the clutch is engaged?
Do you have guages to monitor the high side of the system?
Just asking since it's probably another problem and you will waste time/money if it's diagnosed wrong.
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 05:41 PM
  #3  
GATORB8's Avatar
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by Planeswalker
Does the relief valve blow as soon as the clutch is engaged?
Yes, it was blowing once as soon as the clutch engaged
Originally Posted by Planeswalker
Do you have guages to monitor the high side of the system?
No
Originally Posted by Planeswalker
Just asking since it's probably another problem and you will waste time/money if it's diagnosed wrong.
Ask away, any help is greatly appreciated.

I was able to bleed off enough refrigerant to stop the blow off, but it took me down to the low end of the "acceptable" charge according to my cheap id low side gauge. I'm no stranger to doing my own work, but, like anyone else, I was a little wary of working on the A/C for the first time (more than recharging at least) and had taken the car to a local mechanic after my first attempt to recharge (and stop leak, which I'm regretting now) didn't correct the issues (at this point, the relief valve hadn't blown). After the mechanic said he had tightened the low and high side valves (only visible leaks) we went to pick up the car and the relief valve blew when we started the car. I've since replaced the high side valve, which continued to leak after his "repair".

I'm tempted to leave it as is, we live in Chicago now and the summer doesn't require anywhere near the potency as when we lived down south. However, if there is an easy fix to get it running correctly again, I'd definitely like to correct the failure.
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 05:55 PM
  #4  
05stangkc's Avatar
Administrator clevparts@aol.com
 
Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 12,588
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From: Visalia Ca.
I pulled up the only 2 TSB's on an 06 And Made you a couple of PDF's from the FORD SERVICE MANUAL in Regards to the A/C System. Perhaps you will find this info useful!

KC
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
tsb06-14-03.pdf (49.4 KB, 762 views)
File Type: pdf
2006acmustang.pdf (89.8 KB, 741 views)
File Type: pdf
2006acmustang1.pdf (174.2 KB, 620 views)
File Type: pdf
tsb06-04-09.pdf (46.8 KB, 565 views)
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 06:39 AM
  #5  
05YellowGT's Avatar
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Joined: February 24, 2005
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From: Delray Beach , FL
good to see you posting again KC
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 01:23 PM
  #6  
05stangkc's Avatar
Administrator clevparts@aol.com
 
Joined: November 27, 2004
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From: Visalia Ca.
Originally Posted by 05YellowGT
good to see you posting again KC
Thanks!

I got a lot of catching up to do!

KC
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 12:47 AM
  #7  
Planeswalker's Avatar
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Joined: September 9, 2009
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From: OKC, OK
Originally Posted by GATORB8
Yes, it was blowing once as soon as the clutch engaged

No

Ask away, any help is greatly appreciated.

I was able to bleed off enough refrigerant to stop the blow off, but it took me down to the low end of the "acceptable" charge according to my cheap id low side gauge. I'm no stranger to doing my own work, but, like anyone else, I was a little wary of working on the A/C for the first time (more than recharging at least) and had taken the car to a local mechanic after my first attempt to recharge (and stop leak, which I'm regretting now) didn't correct the issues (at this point, the relief valve hadn't blown). After the mechanic said he had tightened the low and high side valves (only visible leaks) we went to pick up the car and the relief valve blew when we started the car. I've since replaced the high side valve, which continued to leak after his "repair".

I'm tempted to leave it as is, we live in Chicago now and the summer doesn't require anywhere near the potency as when we lived down south. However, if there is an easy fix to get it running correctly again, I'd definitely like to correct the failure.
My A/C went out last summer and I thought I was gonna remove the system, save some weight and tough it out, in TX, in the drought year...yeah didn't last long.

Lets try to narrow it down some:
Now that you dropped some charge, does the system cool at all? Or warm air all the time? Or cool for awhile then warm?
Any weird noises?
Do you know what normal pressure range for when the system is running is? If so is it low/normal/high/keep rising? Using your guage on low side.
Have somebody turn on the A/C, watch the compressor clutch. Does it engage and stay or cycle on/off. Can probably hear it as well, will affect idle.
I hate car A/Cs, so much can cause a problem on a relatively simple system!

EDIT: You can go to Autozone and rent a good set of guages. You pretty much have to buy them and they refund you when you bring them back.

Last edited by Planeswalker; Jun 20, 2012 at 12:50 AM.
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Old Jun 23, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #8  
ford4v429's Avatar
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From: N.E. Ohio
wondering if the metering orifice might be mostly blocked? a bit of debris could have got in during the repair, if blocked the charge would have to be vented till the pressure line filled just shy of hydraulic lock situation with the compressor...just wondering aloud...not a ac guy, no idea what kinda pumps they use, but always guessed theyd had a built in relief- but thinking about sealed system, guess it wouldnt HAVE to be there, charge volume could balance it out...
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