xxxx

 

Since you feel threatened for some reason and want to insert some attitude, I'll respond in kind

It's spelled "strictly" with a T and yes....on sheetmetal that is all I use.


On a full restoration no...but in some cases you might leave things on such as a urethaned windsheild where the customer specified that they did not want it removed. Also soda blasting will take paint off rubber where sandblasting will eat it away and if that part is unavailable and must be reused some might consider that a benefit.

So that is your "trade secret"...thanks for sharing

Obviously you can't grasp what I am trying to get across....you can SEE where work was done previously...wether for curiousity or to point out somewhere you might want to double check someone elses repair this can be useful...obviously if you are doing body work you will pay attention to everywhere but you are just trying to split hairs because you feel threatened here.

Quote:

I really don't have time to go round and round with you about this. I've got work to do and I imagine that you do too. (your bondo is dry now)

Apparently you do....this was not meant as an attack on you and I even commented that there are good sandblasters out there and YES, I was referring to you giving you the benefit of the doubt not knowing you...but there ARE people out there who do this and should not....Yet you ASSumed things and decided to fire back with an attitude. You may have been around sodablasting but OBVIOUSLY you don't know enough about it thanks to your water comment...it's OK though, nobody is blaming you for being uninformed. I have also said that it is the way to go in my opinion...just like YOU have an opinion and in an adult world opinions can be shared as was being done....you took something personal that was not intended that way and responded childishly...sit back and think before you respond next time.

Go back to your sandbox and try not to read into things in a manner they are not intended next time.

 

I've opened this back up....I closed it to stop any continuation of misunderstanding or escalation. Greg and I have exchanged PM's and I think ironed out some of the perceived differences. I do not write off sand blasting completely as it does have it's uses but "I" personally prefer the soda and it's for a number of reasons...one that is not car related is that I don't have a beach when I am done in that soda washes away and is environmentally friendly...but it will kill grass so don't do it on part of your lawn you like . but there are many other benefits.....if you have heavy rust or pitting on metal of significant thickness then sand is going to be your only choice to remove it.

 

 

xxxx

 

.. as for my coupe it is a restomod, not gonna be anything close to stock, has eleanor fiberglass front end, hood, side skirts, fender flairs, and trunk lid.

I am also aware of the expenses to modify a car, my previous project a mustang v6 into a 99 gt motor and tras along with a 99 cobra irs cost around $6700.00, this project is expected to be around 20,000 when all is finished.

i am about $13,000 into the 67 coupe with basically paint interior and glass to finish.
one key i like is to use an excel spread sheet to both plan on parts needed along with parts purchased, the wife has a copy of this to ensure i am not too far into the dog house!

other than a few minor things 100% of the work has been done myself, this includes rebuilt front end with baer tracker system, roller spring percher, 620 lb coil springs, poly bushings(still to come adjustable strut rods) new upper and lower ball joints, new upper control arms!

rear suspension includes global west 5 leaf rear springs, kyb shocks, poly bushings. (still looking for the lsd dif)

the brakes were stock 4 wheel manual drum, and now 4 wheel power disk brakes, (stock 67 gt 4 piston front disc brakes,/ 97 ford explorer rear brakes and using a 67 gt350 master for f/r disc brakes)

drive train is a 351 w backed by a 88 mustang gt t5 rebuilt with gforce parts the engine has edelbrock intake manifold, carb, msd ready to run distributor and msd coil

list of still needs are huge and i know well over $5,000 just for parts but it is a fun little project i can work on when i have free time and weather permits!

now as for the sand blasting / soda blasting , i am still not completly decided where i am going to, but i do know epoxy primer is gonna be applied asap after the car is returned to me, what i am wondering now is , should body filler be applied over bare metal or is it ok to do over the epoxy primer, there are some spots (where the fiberglass will be molded to the car) that needs to have some body filler.

my problem is if i do not primer the entire car, where i install the fiberglass will have bare metal, but if i do primer the whole car i have to either grind down the primer to bare metal then apply body filler , or just apply the body filler over the primer

what is best

thanks

 

Sounds like you have a plan and understand the size of your project. While you can use some filler over primer I would not really recommend it. An epoxy or urethane 2 part primer is a great filler in itself for small imperfections. I will prime and block sand a car 2-3 times before painting to make sure it is slick and straight and primer often allows you to get out many things without using filler. If I were you I would handle any sizeable repairs prior to applying primer....and as far as the fiberglass where it is to be molded into the body I would NOT use body filler for that task....it will only end up showing up down the road in the form of a crack. There are tons of products out there we use for different bonding taskes in body work/repair....things like panel bonding adhesive, semi rigid parts repair, SMC adhesive, and on and on. 3M makes a lot of different 2 part products. Body filler is not a glue and should not be applied in any sort of thick fashion. For thicker areas needed there is Marglass or similar fiberglass reinforced body filler which is far more durable than your typical filler. If you are not familiar with a lot of the tricks and trade practices I would strongly suggest letting a professional shop(one you can trust) do your body work....it may stretch your budget a little more but in the end you will not have to redo any of it a few years down the road.

 

I got around to downloading some pictures.....this is one reason I like soda blasting....thought I'd share for those planning their project to help in decision making where needed. The picture is after being blasted and removing 4 layers of paint from the cowl panel....visible is where the original chalk marking of "0229" was under all that paint.....that number matches the last 4 in my VIN on my '65 GT....this would have been lost forever with sand as it would have etched the metal there but now we know where it was and that it was there....means nothing really for a restomod but helps in a concours restoration.

 

anyone you would recommend to do body work and paint?

 

Your best bet is to talk to other local people and get a word of mouth referral. Word of mouth is the best advertising and you can get real world input from those who have used them.

We do this in my shop but I'll be honest with you...I am backed up and have a waiting list so it would be some time before I even have an opening.

 

The 67 gt350 MC is not a 4 wheel disc MC. You should use an SVO MC with proportioning valve.

 

this is the stock disc master cylinder

this is the gt350 mc

 

this is only available if you get the booster, it is not sold as just the mc

 

GT350s didn't have rear discs.

 

well either way this was a great setup and it does work on 4 wheel disc brakes, and for only 200 bucks and a lifetime warranty i couldn't go wrong. i am using the stock proportioner valve for now but swapping to a 94-95 proportioning valve

 

I have a very similar setup on my mustang (explorer rear). It is not running yet. My 68 came with factory power brakes. I am planning on using the MC and PB I have or a direct replacement. Is this a bad idea? Is there a big difference in hydraulic pressure or MC's for disc's and drums? Rogue do you have this setup working now? Rogue why are you changing to a 94-95 proportion valve? Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

The SVO MC is like a $15 item at a local parts store. More importantly, SVOs came with factory 4 wheel disc brakes. I don't know everything, but if you do not use the correct proportioning valve your rear brakes pads will constantly drag on the rear rotor. Read the following thread from another site. It was started by me when I stumbled across a Turbo Coupe w/4 wheel disc brakes. I wanted to put them on my Capri, great info here.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=56982

 

Disc brakes require more fluid to operate than drums, so the MC bowl must be larger. Disc brake master cylinders also incorporate a valve that sustains a little pressure on the pads. They are also slower to engage than drum brakes. Without a proportioning valve to delay the rear drum brakes, they would lock up before the front discs, sending you in a spin. An adjustable prop valve like a Wilwood is desirable so you can tune it to lock the front discs just before the back drums. The factory tuned prop valves found in 4wheel disc cars must be tuned for that particular setup. I would not use a 94/95 prop valve on a vintage Mustang.

Do your homework before you mess with your brakes.

 

I have an adjustable proportioning valve that I am planning on using to dial in the correct settings. I have used them for years on round track cars. I am just curious about the mention of a specific 94 - 95 model valve. I have not done all of my homework on master cylinders yet as I am still working on other stuff. I know that disk MC's are larger, but I did not know that drum MC's would not hold enough fluid for disk brakes. Will an SVO MC bolt up to a 67/68 power booster? I will do some research. Thanks for the help.

 

I agree, too many people don't pay attention to thier braking systems or go half a**. Unless your car already has good brakes (94-up) then I believe that brakes should be your first or second mod. The brakes in my 86 GT are pathetic, my Tundra weighs about 2000 pounds more and stop alot quicker than my Mustang. Before I do anything else to the car I plan to at least upgrade to rear discs. Ideally, I will do a 5-lug Cobra upgrade.