Rogue

i have heard of wallace sandblasting, but any preferred blasters for my 67 coupe,

depending on price i can get the whole car done, but if it too expensive i will only get the interior and underside done, i can just use aircraft stripper on the topside!

anyone have any ideas on how much it cost to strip a complete car or even just sections

also what type of pre prep should i do , completly remove drive train fuel tank ect ?

wiring ?
fuel line?
exhaust?

thanks

mgreene

I would not sandblast the actual body - it can lead to warping or "tin canning" if not done correctly. I would recommend soda blasting, which strips but does not generate the heat that sandblasting does. I had my '70 Boss 302 soda blasted last year - cost me around $850.

Here are some pics : http://www.gt350h.com/bosses/back_from_soda_blaster

kennyg

I agree with mgreene on the warping of the sheet metal, but you have already determined you can paint strip the outside. Be sure to collect the paint/stripper and dispose of it properly. I would take the Mustang at least down to a roller before any blasting is done. Here's the number of a former RCMC member that does soda blasting. T & T Soda Blasting, Scott Thrasher, 931-993-3199. Give him a call and tell him what you want done. He's mobile which is a plus if you don't want to tow your Stang around. kennyg

BA Mustang

I would do soda blasting also. We had my dads truck soda blasted and then had the frame sand blasted. It works really well.

Rogue

so what do you think it will cost to do interior, underside, and engine bay ?

Kendal Coker

I had the underside, inside floorpan and firewall forward done in Decatur for $150. He is $125 per hour. I think the name is TJ's sandblasting on the new hy 24 just before Trinity. I had mine on a rotisserie so it made it simpler to work with.

mag-racing

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...6970_8520_8520



I use one of these and sand blast at home. It is too powerful for the thinner areas like the hood and trunk (learned the hard way). It worked great on the underside and the rest of my 68 coupe. It will also take any rusted, dirt caked suspension or frame part down to clean metal in seconds. It shoots out a swath of sand-water the size of a basket ball. Rinse and blow dry after your done.

Rogue

i have someone that will sandblast the entire car minus front fenders hood and trunk lid(all fiberglass) for 350.00....

i started stripping the car, got 50% done tonight, we will see how much more i can do tomorrow night,

just wondering do i need to remove fuel lines on the car or just cover the ends, what about brake hoses , will they get damaged?

also need to know how to remove the front and read 1/4 windows

thanks

Bigred15

I am removing everything off of my Capri, that way I know that it is not damaged.

Mberglo

I used Wallace sandblasting on the 65 Vert project. Won't do that again. While it was wonderful to have it totally stripped, I spent lots and lots of hours trying to get the hood flat again.

LMan

If you are using 'real' sand (not beads, shells, etc), assume that all rubber components will be eroded/consumed unless they are well-protected.

Bigred15

Several people suggest that you use walnut. Its alot softer and won't heat up the metal. Because its softer it also wont warp the metal. The drawback to walnut is that it isn't as good at taking off rust. I would prefer to get my car dipped (especially the 84 GT because of extensive rust) but that can get REALLY expensive and I don't know where there is one thats close.

Mberglo

Dipping has its own problems. It eats all of the adhesives that hold your hood, decklid, etc together. It also leaves bare metal where you can't recoat it.

mgreene

With soda blasting, you shouldn't have to worry about your hard lines. In fact it's said that it will not even affect glass or chrome as long as you don't just leave it pointed in one spot for a long time. Plus, you simply wash the residue out with water, not having to worry about small sand particles that can (and probably will) be flushed out from hidden areas when hit with a paint spray gun.

Greg G

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svopaul

I strictly ONLY soda blast cars at my shop. With sand you will spend an eternity trying to get the sand out and you still may have some in there that shows up from time to time. Not to mention the potential for warpage.

We have a mobile soda blaster in Alabama that will come to you....Call Ken Hayes at 256-441-2731 and tell him Paul at SVP sent you. Great guy and fantastic work and you don't have to tote your car somewhere. It's worth every penny! He just left here about 3 hours ago...been here 2 days blasting for me. Soda does not hurt chrome, rubber, glass, etc....it is by far the best way to strip a car!

Rogue

i was told soda wont actually remove rust though, if thats the case will i have to hit all the rust myself ?

wallace is who is quoting me 350.00 for inside, outside, undercarriage, and engine bay he also says there will be no warpage,

Scott Thrasher, is quoting me 650 but that includes picking up the car and dropping it back off, (soda the exterior and dash and media blast the rest, he also said he would have to go over where there is rust with the media since soda does not remove rust)

what do you think guys

remember there are no fender, hood, front facia, or trunk lid

svopaul

There are some different grades of soda....it will removed rust but will not remove the discoloration so you may want to go back lightly over those areas. I had a hood done yesterday for my Cyclone and it had a lot of surface rust....all gone other than some discoloration where the rust was which will be easy to take care of.

I've had sandblasters tell me there will be no warpage before....some of done good, others did not and did warp the panel. If you go that route make sure he knows what he is doing and good luck getting all the sand out.

Greg G

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svopaul

I also have ways to remove sand...not really "trade secret" just common sense and knowing what you are doing.....there are good sandblasters out there but for every good one there are probably 3 or 4 other guys who have little experience and figured they'd open a business doing it. It's the guys at home that have trouble getting sand out as I have seen a lot of cars at shows and cruise ins where when the trunk is opened you will find sand remnants in the trunk.

As far as soda and water...I think you really don't know much about how that process works...which is understandable if all you do is sandblast. We have soda blasted cars in the rain and we ALWAYS wash it out with water...why? because the soda leaves a film on the bare metal that keeps it from flash rusting. In fact you have to wash the car down with dishwashing soap and water when you are ready to prep it for paint....otherwise you can let it sit in the shop or garage for extended lengths of time without it rusting. Both cars I blasted yesterday were rinsed with water and allowed to air dry....not a spot of rust ANYWHERE on either car. I'd be happy to post pictures if you don't believe me . Put water on a sandblasted car or let it sit for any time and it will in fact flash rust.

Now on Frames or heavy metal I would always use sand but for sheetmetal bodies there is no other choice in my opinion and I say this because I am the one doing the body and paint work on the car...sand etches the metal while soda does not. You can look at a soda blasted car and tell where all previous body work/grinding was done...with sand it etches the metal and you cannot see that....sometimes this helps you address areas immediately where poor repairs were previously done.

If sand works for you, great....but don't write off other processes just because you don't understand them and have not used them. Sand has it's place, soda has it's place and other media has it's place.