GOvert project
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GOvert project
Hey guys, I still havn't been able to access Samir's site to capture my DATA from there, but here is a pic of one of the parts I am working on for the 2300 1965 vert project.
Found an Ace welder who filled in the EGR hole for me on the intake. He did a great job on it without over welding. So far have been using hand files to knock down the weld and casting marks. Looking at some polishing tools to buy. Here is a pic of half of the intake:
more to come as time permits !
Found an Ace welder who filled in the EGR hole for me on the intake. He did a great job on it without over welding. So far have been using hand files to knock down the weld and casting marks. Looking at some polishing tools to buy. Here is a pic of half of the intake:
more to come as time permits !
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Joined: January 19, 2007
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GOvert Project Granada donor car
The weather has put a hold on the GOvert project for the most part. I'm looking forward to some better weather and a new soldering iron/gun so that I can get back on the wiring rearrangment.
A couple of months ago I noticed a Granada on my path to and from work everyday. Decent looking car. I mentioned that if it were ever wrecked that it needed to be purchased. I think it was the week of Cristmas that Ken called from his cell saying he saw the Granada on the highway involved in an accident. A wrecker removed it from the scene and about three weeks later ended up at its home again. A few days later a stopped and asked about it. A woman came to the door and I spoke to her about it. I could hear her 'old man" yappin' in the background that "they wasn't gonna take no $100 for it". I asked her how much would they take and she said $500-, if they decided to sell it.
I thought to myself, a little high on the price, but I left her my number anyway. A couple of weeks later I got a call from her a she said they would take $300- for it. I went to get it and when I got there the battery was gone and her "old man" said he had knocked a hole in the gas tank to get the gas out.
OH well, I bought it anyway and in 15 minutes after rigging up an alternative fuel siupply, drove it out of there.
It's at the shop now and I'm patching it up to use as a beater until I need the brakes. I had a 5 gallon fuel cell in the collection of parts so I was able to remedy the fuel tank situation. Turns out the original tank was about junk and check this out ! an interesting way to repair a fuel sending unit. A medicine bottle for a float and a piece of pantyhose for a fuel strainer. I'll have to remember that one.
The old 302 has a lot of miles on it but I think it will work OK in the '74 Ford pickup when the time comes.
This Granada is the model with power disc brakes and an 8 inch diffy. Not all Granadas came equipped this way. I will be using the disc brakes and power steering off of the front of the Granada. The rotors, pads, calipers and bearings will need to be replaced, which will cost somewhere around $150-.
If anyone in the Granada Owners Club needs parts there will be some leftovers (LOL).
More on the progress as the weather permits !
A couple of months ago I noticed a Granada on my path to and from work everyday. Decent looking car. I mentioned that if it were ever wrecked that it needed to be purchased. I think it was the week of Cristmas that Ken called from his cell saying he saw the Granada on the highway involved in an accident. A wrecker removed it from the scene and about three weeks later ended up at its home again. A few days later a stopped and asked about it. A woman came to the door and I spoke to her about it. I could hear her 'old man" yappin' in the background that "they wasn't gonna take no $100 for it". I asked her how much would they take and she said $500-, if they decided to sell it.
I thought to myself, a little high on the price, but I left her my number anyway. A couple of weeks later I got a call from her a she said they would take $300- for it. I went to get it and when I got there the battery was gone and her "old man" said he had knocked a hole in the gas tank to get the gas out.
OH well, I bought it anyway and in 15 minutes after rigging up an alternative fuel siupply, drove it out of there. It's at the shop now and I'm patching it up to use as a beater until I need the brakes. I had a 5 gallon fuel cell in the collection of parts so I was able to remedy the fuel tank situation. Turns out the original tank was about junk and check this out ! an interesting way to repair a fuel sending unit. A medicine bottle for a float and a piece of pantyhose for a fuel strainer. I'll have to remember that one.
The old 302 has a lot of miles on it but I think it will work OK in the '74 Ford pickup when the time comes.
This Granada is the model with power disc brakes and an 8 inch diffy. Not all Granadas came equipped this way. I will be using the disc brakes and power steering off of the front of the Granada. The rotors, pads, calipers and bearings will need to be replaced, which will cost somewhere around $150-.
If anyone in the Granada Owners Club needs parts there will be some leftovers (LOL).
More on the progress as the weather permits !
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A few Dollars and I'm back at it !
It always takes tools to work on these cars and sometimes tools have to be replaced too. I purchased me a new soldering gun from HB.
Soldering Gun $8.99 in the store
Also stumbled across this on a Bronco II site. An accumulator/filter needed when adding EFI into an early Mustang.
Accumulator/Filter
Soldering Gun $8.99 in the store
Also stumbled across this on a Bronco II site. An accumulator/filter needed when adding EFI into an early Mustang.
Accumulator/Filter
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Dem's da Brakes ! [Part 1 sorta]
Saturday while I was rounding up a good brake pedal brace for another one I am working on, I was able to get in a little "fitting" time in on the brake booster similar to the one I will be using on the GOvert project. There was a piece of firewall attached to the brace so it made it easy to work on, on the bench. The blue paint is from where I spray painted the pattern on to some .0625 steel plate that will be in between the brace and firewall and tacked to the brace.
The top two booster studs line up with the top two on the firewall. I just had to file them a little to the outside. The center hole also needed enlarged a little. Then I marked the location of the bottom two studs and drilled the holes for them. The booster fit like a glove. Then I had to remove the factory nutserts form the brace so that the booster studs would slide through it. This brace had a busted out bushing from being used in a manual transmission car. It needs the roller bearing upgrade.
This booster is off of an '83 Mustang. It doesn't have a relief in it like the one off of a '79.
Here is a picture off the booster, firewall and brace. I still need an auto pedal and relocate the pushrod pin down a little. I will do that when I mount the '93 booster to it. I don't anticipate it being different but you just never know.
The brake system will consist of a booster off of a 1993 Mustang 4 cylinder model. A dual master cylinder and proportioning valve off of a 1977 Granada.
Granada front disc spindle assemblies and rear wheel cylinders off of probably an "87 5.0 GT Mustang. I am going to look at the different Foxbody rear wheel cyl diameters before I make a final decision on them.
This idea is a culmination of ideas from many sources including the internet. One in particular mustangsteve.com.
More later as the project progresses.
The top two booster studs line up with the top two on the firewall. I just had to file them a little to the outside. The center hole also needed enlarged a little. Then I marked the location of the bottom two studs and drilled the holes for them. The booster fit like a glove. Then I had to remove the factory nutserts form the brace so that the booster studs would slide through it. This brace had a busted out bushing from being used in a manual transmission car. It needs the roller bearing upgrade.
This booster is off of an '83 Mustang. It doesn't have a relief in it like the one off of a '79.
Here is a picture off the booster, firewall and brace. I still need an auto pedal and relocate the pushrod pin down a little. I will do that when I mount the '93 booster to it. I don't anticipate it being different but you just never know.
The brake system will consist of a booster off of a 1993 Mustang 4 cylinder model. A dual master cylinder and proportioning valve off of a 1977 Granada.
Granada front disc spindle assemblies and rear wheel cylinders off of probably an "87 5.0 GT Mustang. I am going to look at the different Foxbody rear wheel cyl diameters before I make a final decision on them.
This idea is a culmination of ideas from many sources including the internet. One in particular mustangsteve.com.
More later as the project progresses.
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So, did that Harbour Freight soldering iron give out on you yet? I bought one, it came with 4 tips I believe. I tried the three thinner ones first, each one would break in two as I was trying to TIN them. The final one as a big fat one and I used it maybe 3 times until it broke.
Harbor Freight doesn't sell just the tips, they said to go to Radio Shack. So, I bought 4 new tips. The first time I tried the Radio Shack tips, the tips held up fine, but the Chicago Tools soldering gun died. Well, it didn't quit working, but it got so HOT the tips fell out of the gun. Not the replacement tips I bought but the big metal parts that stick out of the gun and you screw the tips into. What a joke of a soldering gun.
Harbor Freight doesn't sell just the tips, they said to go to Radio Shack. So, I bought 4 new tips. The first time I tried the Radio Shack tips, the tips held up fine, but the Chicago Tools soldering gun died. Well, it didn't quit working, but it got so HOT the tips fell out of the gun. Not the replacement tips I bought but the big metal parts that stick out of the gun and you screw the tips into. What a joke of a soldering gun.
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Tools,Tools, Tools
My experience with the Harbor Freight stuff is if it is defective it seems to break almost right away. I think the soldering gun has a one year warranty.
I must have got the better one out of the lot this time around.
I'll update the GOvert progress soon. I'm looking at a new tool to do some metalwork with. If you own an early convertible and are familiar with the drain gutter channel thing behind the back window you might know why I need this tool. Mark knows of the area I'm talking about.
Shrinker Stretcher Set
Shrinker/Stretcher Stand
It's all about
METAL
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Update: 5-07-07
I finally got to work on the GOvert project several hours this weekend. After several weeks I picked up where I left off on the wiring. It took a few minutes to figure out where I was at on it but the biggest savior of it all is If I cut a wire to re-route or lengthen it I would solder it right back together. The sun was going down when I was ready to start up the engine that hadn't been started since Sunday Jan 14th. I installed the battery, hooked it up, turned the key and I heard the fuel pump, pre-pump. Turned it over, and it wouldn't fire. The sun was over the horizon by now and it was getting to the point that I couldn't see what color the wires were. Oh well, there is always Tomorrow morning. I got up at 6 am, started the coffee pot and found a piece of wire to make a groundwire to go from the electronics panel to a body ground.
picture of board not installed (file photo)
I hooked up the ground wire, turned the key and she fired right up up. I felt good that that went well and I didn't see any magic smoke. I worked on it a couple of more hours and at one point I heard a snap and a pop but no crackle. After that the tach and the ammeter didn't work.
I will have more pictures soon. I have to remember to take the camera home with new batteries in it.
Til later....
picture of board not installed (file photo)
I hooked up the ground wire, turned the key and she fired right up up. I felt good that that went well and I didn't see any magic smoke. I worked on it a couple of more hours and at one point I heard a snap and a pop but no crackle. After that the tach and the ammeter didn't work.
I will have more pictures soon. I have to remember to take the camera home with new batteries in it.
Til later....
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GOvert August '07 Update
It has been a couple of months since I have been able to work on the GOvert project however here is a quick update.
I happily got the electrical system re-routed in a rough sort of way. There are about 50 wires now that will have to be made longer or shorter. I was showing it to Mark the last time he was out and I kind of missed his question the first time around. I'm not so much trying to eliminate any sensors or systems other than deleting the EGR part of it electrically and mechanically. Actually the challenge was removing the "computer" harness from the main harness. Unlike the early computer controlled cars/engines that had a seperate ECM harness from the main harness, the "93 4 cyl Mustang had just one, big, messy harness. I sucessfully seperated the computer harness out of the main harness and over a period of 2 to 3 months and a whole lot of coffee, did this without letting out any "magic smoke". I've got the car back at the shop now and have left the battery hooked up for almost 3 months now without any electrical problems or dead battery syndrome.
As you can see from the picture it is quite a "nest" of wire and this doesn't include the 10 or so pounds of wire and instrument cluster that I deleted. The starter solenoid is mounted on the inside of the cowl and when it is installed in the '65 mustang will be located in the righthand torque box near the starter accessible from the inside of the car by folding back the front passenger carpet and removing an access panel to get to the solenoid.
The battery is behind the drivers seat now and in the '65 will be under the left rear seat installed much like and old VW Beetle battery was from the factory.
The engine compartment area is starting to look cleaned up a bit without all the wires running to the DIS module, relay box etc. When I install the headlight and other harnesses in the '65 I am going to route them through the frame rails to kind of "hide" them too.
Well this is all for now and I am going to have to save up for all of the metal required to rebuild the sub-body.
Inner convertible rocker assy's
One piece floor pan
Convertible quarter panels
Trunk floor drop offs
Rear frame rails (back halfs)
Rear conv cross brace
Front aprons
Radiator support
Front frame rail repair panels
ETC
ETC
ETC
More later...........
I happily got the electrical system re-routed in a rough sort of way. There are about 50 wires now that will have to be made longer or shorter. I was showing it to Mark the last time he was out and I kind of missed his question the first time around. I'm not so much trying to eliminate any sensors or systems other than deleting the EGR part of it electrically and mechanically. Actually the challenge was removing the "computer" harness from the main harness. Unlike the early computer controlled cars/engines that had a seperate ECM harness from the main harness, the "93 4 cyl Mustang had just one, big, messy harness. I sucessfully seperated the computer harness out of the main harness and over a period of 2 to 3 months and a whole lot of coffee, did this without letting out any "magic smoke". I've got the car back at the shop now and have left the battery hooked up for almost 3 months now without any electrical problems or dead battery syndrome.
As you can see from the picture it is quite a "nest" of wire and this doesn't include the 10 or so pounds of wire and instrument cluster that I deleted. The starter solenoid is mounted on the inside of the cowl and when it is installed in the '65 mustang will be located in the righthand torque box near the starter accessible from the inside of the car by folding back the front passenger carpet and removing an access panel to get to the solenoid.
The battery is behind the drivers seat now and in the '65 will be under the left rear seat installed much like and old VW Beetle battery was from the factory.
The engine compartment area is starting to look cleaned up a bit without all the wires running to the DIS module, relay box etc. When I install the headlight and other harnesses in the '65 I am going to route them through the frame rails to kind of "hide" them too.
Well this is all for now and I am going to have to save up for all of the metal required to rebuild the sub-body.
Inner convertible rocker assy's
One piece floor pan
Convertible quarter panels
Trunk floor drop offs
Rear frame rails (back halfs)
Rear conv cross brace
Front aprons
Radiator support
Front frame rail repair panels
ETC
ETC
ETC
More later...........
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Joined: January 19, 2007
Posts: 231
Likes: 2
Harbor Freight soldering iron
So, did that Harbour Freight soldering iron give out on you yet? I bought one, it came with 4 tips I believe. I tried the three thinner ones first, each one would break in two as I was trying to TIN them. The final one as a big fat one and I used it maybe 3 times until it broke.
Harbor Freight doesn't sell just the tips, they said to go to Radio Shack. So, I bought 4 new tips. The first time I tried the Radio Shack tips, the tips held up fine, but the Chicago Tools soldering gun died. Well, it didn't quit working, but it got so HOT the tips fell out of the gun. Not the replacement tips I bought but the big metal parts that stick out of the gun and you screw the tips into. What a joke of a soldering gun.
Harbor Freight doesn't sell just the tips, they said to go to Radio Shack. So, I bought 4 new tips. The first time I tried the Radio Shack tips, the tips held up fine, but the Chicago Tools soldering gun died. Well, it didn't quit working, but it got so HOT the tips fell out of the gun. Not the replacement tips I bought but the big metal parts that stick out of the gun and you screw the tips into. What a joke of a soldering gun.
In the meantime for my reading pleasure...
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_...rth/meCh5.html
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