See post #3 in "Isn't it funny"
Yeah, I've had over a dozen of them since the 70's.
Had a '57, '62, '65, '67, '69, '70, '71, 2-'73's, '77, 2-78's and a '79.

 

So that was the one you were talking about. I saved the listing thinking I might go take a look. Description and pics looked pretty good for $1500. I've got a JUNK '76 or so Ranchero at my shop that's grown in right now. I'll let you know when I drag it out. It's never been smoked in by me, door won't shut because it's not on there, '72 front cap sitting on it, no rust(well maybe not on one little spot), RARE rim blow wheel that's dry rotted, was new once...Also got a mixed breed 76 front/72 rear Torino stock car! kennyg

 

i had a 85 5.0 fuelie i turned into a carbed motor. put it into a 80 200-i6 stang. had to change the k-member. wish it was the roller version. built it to a nice runner.

current project is my 96 GT. the turbo 4v is fun, but i want more. i'm making an intake manifold for it from tubular aluminum. gonna put a larger turbo on it when i rebuild it. the motor just went in the car in april. also have a kellogg crank for it this time. the stock cast crank can only handle 650ish rwhp. im going a bit past that this time. my mahle pistons are a weak link also. switching to CP units this time. i may reuse the rods, but only with ARP 2000 bolts. they are rated for 800hp/8000rpms as they are now. same rods a termi uses. heads are ported already. SS intake valves.

im fabricating a turbo setup for the 2007 4.6 3v that is temporarily going on the car while i build the 4v 1000hp motor. using a gt3788va turbo from a duramax on it with a 05 powerstroke turbine housing and the VA tig welded fixed at .9 a/r. putting a 3200 rpm converter in it. gonna gear it 3.90 probably.

car is already a full tubular suspension/coil over, 90/10's setup. i use hoosier 275/50/15 dot pro's at the track. should be ready for its first run at the huntsville track this spring.

im driving it right now with the turbo 4v. plan to swap the 4.6 3v turbo motor into it in a weekend soon. when its not so cold.

 

Rebuild Diff and install 4.10's into IRS rear end. Thanks to Mberglo, Puter, and somebody else(???) for showing me. I've went ahead and ordered a video from Richmond as well as pinion depth setting tools to do it right.

 

Messed around in my garage when I got home from work. Took the hood off my '68 Cougar getting ready to tear down the top end. Here's a pic of the right bank rocker studs, look back to the 5th and 7th stud and you'll see they are 'taller' than the others. Same situation on the left bank. Pulling the heads and having screw in studs installed. kennyg

 

Cougar Project Update: Picked me up some wheels and tires
if they look familiar they should. Thanks Jake for a good deal and nice to meet you. I'm debating, with myself, about whether to buy chrome or black lug nuts. Opinions? Also, I've decided to install the screw in studs myself. I picked up a good sized drill press, talked to a machinist friend and he suggested using the press to center the tap, that was my biggest concern with doing it by hand and getting the studs crooked. I'll start a build thread soon. To be continued...kennyg

 

Good to meet you too. The color lug nut is a hard decision. I think either set would look good. I only went with chrome because they were priced right when I ordered the cragars.

 

paint the nuts the same color as the car

 

Got my Grant classic series wheel installed. Looks good, but I need to make a metal plate to add onto their adapter. My wheel moves all over the place because of a gap between the steering column walls and the adapter. So I think I could make a piece that would fit on the adapter to close the gap and stop the excess movement.

 

Your adapter must not be installed correctly. Make sure it is not upside down as I think the spline as a taper. Grant has been making these for years. If it is installed properly and not fitting right it may be the wrong adapter.

 

I know it isn't on wrong. This is my second grant kit I've put on this car. My dad also has the same setup and wheel and his moves around also. Grants aren't any good that is all. I would have waited and got a better steering wheel, but I needed this wheel so I could actually drive it. Whenever I can I will upgrade to the Lecarra setup for these mustangs.

 

No, Grants are good and they fit right if it is installed right

i wont even get into how many people use grant wheels and install kits in every single auto market from streets to auto x. if their stuff was bad, or JUNK think of the lawsuits they would go thru due to steering related accidents.

make sure you have the correct install kit!

for our mustangs they list 2 types, one is a universal ford one, and the other is for like ealry mustangs and bronco's

you need the mustang\ bronco one,

a steering wheel should never move around or wobble or anything like that. after all if those little aluminum splines shear off, then your talking about no steering and a possible deadly accident.

you should never choose looks over safety.

http://64.60.165.189/pc-296-1-3294.aspx

this is the corect part,

the cheap 10.00 universal ones will not work

but keep in mind i did have to trim my metal plate cover to keep it from rubbing and making a nasty squeek

 

If they aren't any good why would you waste money on it? If they weren't any good they would have been out of business long ago.

Rogue is right on the money. Try again for better results. If you are still wobbling a lot maybe it is your column or steering box.

 

I want to drive it to Jack Daniels if I get it painted. I wouldn't have enough money to buy the Lecarra between now and March 13th. So I bought a temporary until I can afford the Lecarra.

I bought kit number 3294. I'm going to mod the adapter to make it work for now.

This is what I want:


Hey I just went out and took my Grant back off and was inspecting the shaft. The splines are fine, but the whole shaft is moving around. So I know that isn't really good, but what do I have to do about that? Rebuild the steering setup? I'll get a video of it to show everyone.

 

BA, I've installed several Grants over the years, all were brought to me by the customers so what they purchased is what I had to deal with. I know that 'bolt-on' usually isn't! Grants been in business a million years, yaddah yaddah yaddah...That Lecarra will look sweet when you can afford it.

Sounds to me like the problem you are having is due to a worn or missing tapered bushing found at the top of the steering shaft under the wheel. Make sure it didn't stick to the OE wheel when you removed it. The part may still be serviced by Ford or one of the catalog parts companies. I havn't tried to buy one in years. Also, your adapter may not be putting pressure against it to hold it in position. This could be possibly corrected, as well as tightening up the gap between the installed wheel and steering column tube, by sliding the tube up just a hair. Loosen the 2 yoke attaching nuts at the bottom of the dash and move the column up to where you like it and retighten the fasteners. Be careful that you don't get it too tight and that you leave clearence for the turn signal canceller. Hope this gives you something to go on. kennyg

 

There has to be something I am missing. It also broke a piece of my turn signal setup. I can't seem to find the part anywhere and don't know what it is called. Also I tried moving the column back and forward earlier today and that didn't work. I'll have to look into it more tomorrow.

 

Good video. Looks like it has to be missing something and has nothing to do with the adapter. Put your stock wheel back on and see what it does.

 

Jake, i will try to pull mine off and see what you are missing

 

I think there is a spring or something missing. I'll have to search my floor boards for it. Couple guys on another forum said my upper bearing could be shot.


EDIT: Found out it was a spring that goes in the hole to keep it still. Installed that and the pins, and it works fine now. It is going to take some time getting used to though. I'm used to the 15" wheel and not a 13 1/2" one, also used to a stock seat and not a racing one.

 

Bought the black lugs and they look good, a real quality product that I found on theebay for $21.25 for the set of 20. I'm painting the drums, hubs, and new grease caps black. kennyg