Bought another 2000
I had taken the fender and hood off earlier in the week so the engine is exposed. When I went out this morning and the EZ Up Canopy had collapsed on top of the car. It was staked on two corners and had a landscape paver on a third corner. Amazingly as mangled and twisted as the EZ Up was the metal was not touching the body anywhere. I think the damage to the canopy was a combination of the wind and the water on top. The center post was resting on the plenum and the nylon canopy had fallen between the mangled frame and was on top of the engine compartment full of water. Three of us carefully moved it off of the car and separated the canopy from the frame. The frame was beyond repair and is now in the trash pile. The white canopy was dirty and greasy so it is now covering the engine.
KennyG called this morning and hopefully will be painting parts today. If all goes as planned control arms will be finished this evening. Anyone know where to get poly urethane spring insulators locally?
Ordered my vinyl to cut the stripes. We went with a mint green. Should look pretty good on the white car. Will fire up the vinyl cutter this weekend and get things going. Haven't decided yet between 8", 9" or 10" stripes. I have to measure the recess in the hood and the width of the third taillight to make the final decision. (see the attachment)
Still need to order carpet and will wait to install new upholstery until I get the carpet.
KennyG called this morning and hopefully will be painting parts today. If all goes as planned control arms will be finished this evening. Anyone know where to get poly urethane spring insulators locally?
Ordered my vinyl to cut the stripes. We went with a mint green. Should look pretty good on the white car. Will fire up the vinyl cutter this weekend and get things going. Haven't decided yet between 8", 9" or 10" stripes. I have to measure the recess in the hood and the width of the third taillight to make the final decision. (see the attachment)
Still need to order carpet and will wait to install new upholstery until I get the carpet.
Last edited by garagewear; Jun 10, 2010 at 09:22 AM.
Almost ready to prime the repairs and paint. Monday, monday, monday. Doing hardwood floors this weekend otherwise I would do it tomorrow. Here's a couple of pics, mostly of repairing the hood. The corner was damaged and broken off, but fortunately garagewear got the broken piece with the Stang. Prepped the damaged area and reattached the corner of the skin with fiberglass resin. Ground out a bunch of cracks, then built the area up with polyester filler, sanded between coats, applied a higher grade filler, then finished sanded. The fender has several issues and are almost smoothed to my liking. The bumper will be a cinch. To be continued...kennyg
Started working on the control arms yesterday and when I got it up in the air I thought I would check the axles. Left axle is bent. Has about an inch of wobble to it. Can't tell by looking if the housing is bent so I guess I will replace the whole rearend.
Removed all of the black stripes last night. The green vinyl came in UPS on Friday. Worked on the stripes in Corel Draw some Saturday. Will cut them one night this week. Have about a 1000 tee shirts to print and dining room to paint first.
Removed all of the black stripes last night. The green vinyl came in UPS on Friday. Worked on the stripes in Corel Draw some Saturday. Will cut them one night this week. Have about a 1000 tee shirts to print and dining room to paint first.
Fender and hood are back on car. Pulled the rearend last night in prep for the replacement one. When the car slammed the curb on the left side it ripped the upper control arms and bent the lowers. It also bent the left axle. I thought there would be damage to the brackets so I bought a torque box repair kit and tubular control arms. What I did find for damage underneath is the drive shaft and pinion slammed the bottom of the right floor board and put a pretty good size dent as well as crimped the fuel line. I am thinking I can get away with a splice using a compression fitting or just cut it and replace the back 3 feet of the line.
The new rearend has control arms so I won't be needing the tubulars or the torque box kits (battle boxes). They are for sale if anyone is interested. The control arms are round tube Summit in powder coat black. I think the battle boxes are Blue Oval Racing. Both the control arms and battle boxes will also fit fox bodies. I'll take $250 for all of it.
I have also ended up with a second set of the '06 wheels if anyone is interested.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-790000B-W/
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=628
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=627
The new rearend has control arms so I won't be needing the tubulars or the torque box kits (battle boxes). They are for sale if anyone is interested. The control arms are round tube Summit in powder coat black. I think the battle boxes are Blue Oval Racing. Both the control arms and battle boxes will also fit fox bodies. I'll take $250 for all of it.
I have also ended up with a second set of the '06 wheels if anyone is interested.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-790000B-W/
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=628
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=627
Last edited by garagewear; Jun 23, 2010 at 03:38 PM.
Fender and hood are back on car. Pulled the rearend last night in prep for the replacement one. When the car slammed the curb on the left side it ripped the upper control arms and bent the lowers. It also bent the left axle. I thought there would be damage to the brackets so I bought a torque box repair kit and tubular control arms. What I did find for damage underneath is the drive shaft and pinion slammed the bottom of the right floor board and put a pretty good size dent as well as crimped the fuel line. I am thinking I can get away with a splice using a compression fitting or just cut it and replace the back 3 feet of the line.
The new rearend has control arms so I won't be needing the tubulars or the torque box kits (battle boxes). They are for sale if anyone is interested. The control arms are round tube Summit in powder coat black. I think the battle boxes are Blue Oval Racing. Both the control arms and battle boxes will also fit fox bodies. I'll take $250 for all of it.
I have also ended up with a second set of the '06 wheels if anyone is interested.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-790000B-W/
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=628
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=627
The new rearend has control arms so I won't be needing the tubulars or the torque box kits (battle boxes). They are for sale if anyone is interested. The control arms are round tube Summit in powder coat black. I think the battle boxes are Blue Oval Racing. Both the control arms and battle boxes will also fit fox bodies. I'll take $250 for all of it.
I have also ended up with a second set of the '06 wheels if anyone is interested.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-790000B-W/
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=628
http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=627
They are 16". Look just like the ones in the post at the top of this page. Includes Ford spinners. Asking $250. They have tires that probably have about 8 to 10K miles left on them. I think the tires are 225/65
Last edited by garagewear; Jun 23, 2010 at 03:51 PM.
Yes they need spacers. I only have one set and am keeping them for the other wheels. The best spacers are the ones that are solid billet and have longer studs. Here is the link to the ones I bought.
http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang_13..._mustangs.aspx
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Musta...mZ250336075812
You can get cheaper ones that are more universal or adapters but I opted for the billet, hub centric with longer studs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12mm-...Q5fAccessories
http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang_13..._mustangs.aspx
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Musta...mZ250336075812
You can get cheaper ones that are more universal or adapters but I opted for the billet, hub centric with longer studs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12mm-...Q5fAccessories
Last edited by garagewear; Jun 24, 2010 at 06:01 AM.
Straightened, caulked and undercoated the right rear floor board. Fixed the bent lines and replaced a section of the fuel line. The rearend is in. I have one control arm and spring left to install. Hope to get that, the new rear brakes and u-joint installed tonight. Also bought a rear trans seal to install before the driveshaft.
My 16 and 12 year old daughters took all the seats out and cleaned the seats and carpet with the Bissell carpet cleaner. They removed the cup holder and ran it through the dishwasher.Still need to take some 409 and a scrub brush to the vinyl areas and the door jams need a good cleaning.
Have one spot on the tire well that is pushed in from the bottom that I need to beat out and need to swap the tailights from my car then finish out the trunk area. Will relocate the rear spoiler while working back there.
Still have to remove the rocker panel skirts and straighten the pinch weld so I can get clips back on the skirts. May give them a fresh coat of paint while they are off.
My 16 and 12 year old daughters took all the seats out and cleaned the seats and carpet with the Bissell carpet cleaner. They removed the cup holder and ran it through the dishwasher.Still need to take some 409 and a scrub brush to the vinyl areas and the door jams need a good cleaning.
Have one spot on the tire well that is pushed in from the bottom that I need to beat out and need to swap the tailights from my car then finish out the trunk area. Will relocate the rear spoiler while working back there.
Still have to remove the rocker panel skirts and straighten the pinch weld so I can get clips back on the skirts. May give them a fresh coat of paint while they are off.
These shots show the rear of the car with no springs or lower control arms installed. We pulled it up onto the rollback with just the uppers not knowing the condition of things.
The left axle was bent, left upper control arm bent and the right control arm ripped apart.
The previous owner had started taking things apart. When I went to get it I put the bolts in the upper control arms to the rearend and put the wheels on it. The rear end was offset to the right about 4".
The left axle was bent, left upper control arm bent and the right control arm ripped apart.
The previous owner had started taking things apart. When I went to get it I put the bolts in the upper control arms to the rearend and put the wheels on it. The rear end was offset to the right about 4".
The left rear wheelhouse was bent all along the edge on the wheelhouse to body seam. Had to hammer it straight and undercoat it. It would have quickly sliced up a tire.
When the rearend shifted to the right the rear u-joint beat the living daylights out of the tunnel and floor. You see a clip in the tunnel. That was pushed up about 90 degrees. The rounded corner of the floor was ripped and pushed up into the car about 3". We took the rear seat out and I beat the bend down then I had my daughter hold the sledge hammer as a dolly then I worked it from the bottom side. The rip was about 3" long and you could almost get your hand through it. We got it shaped and closed the gap to about 1/4" by 1 1/2". Close enough for tape on the top and caulk and undercoat on the bottom.
You can see the bent vent line. The fuel line was crimped when the floor was beat up. I cut about 4" out of the line and thought I could flare it with a double flare tool. No luck. I put a piece of 5/16" rubber line on it. Will have to check it when I put the battery back in. It is good and tight but I don't want it to come off so may go back with a compression fitting.
Other shots show the dangling caliper and some brake parts. The last pic shows the mangled pinch weld where the rocker cover is supposed to attach. Have to remove both rockers and straighten the pinch weld to even get the clips back on the rockers. It looks to me like it must have gone over a curb or something.
When the rearend shifted to the right the rear u-joint beat the living daylights out of the tunnel and floor. You see a clip in the tunnel. That was pushed up about 90 degrees. The rounded corner of the floor was ripped and pushed up into the car about 3". We took the rear seat out and I beat the bend down then I had my daughter hold the sledge hammer as a dolly then I worked it from the bottom side. The rip was about 3" long and you could almost get your hand through it. We got it shaped and closed the gap to about 1/4" by 1 1/2". Close enough for tape on the top and caulk and undercoat on the bottom.
You can see the bent vent line. The fuel line was crimped when the floor was beat up. I cut about 4" out of the line and thought I could flare it with a double flare tool. No luck. I put a piece of 5/16" rubber line on it. Will have to check it when I put the battery back in. It is good and tight but I don't want it to come off so may go back with a compression fitting.
Other shots show the dangling caliper and some brake parts. The last pic shows the mangled pinch weld where the rocker cover is supposed to attach. Have to remove both rockers and straighten the pinch weld to even get the clips back on the rockers. It looks to me like it must have gone over a curb or something.
Last edited by garagewear; Jul 1, 2010 at 08:57 PM.



