nm3

While I agree with many of the OP's thoughts on storage (wash, wax, detail, gas tratment, change oil, cover, trickle charger, etc.) I disagree with the jackstands, battery disconnection and Armor All. In my case the car is stored in my garage. My thought is that if I wanted to move the car or there was a fire in the garage, I couldn't move it. Plus I start the car every 3-4 weeks. On the Armor All, I have stopped using that particular product as I was told years ago it promoted the degradation of the tires.

CalStang'07

nm3: The primary reason for the jack stand lift storage, is to not flat spot or sidewall crack the tires during storage. Once they are flat spotted, they are ruined and will forever will rumble and wiggle at speed! And there is no going back after that. Only some brand new expensive tires will fix that problem. For your own storage plan, you could just over inflate the Stangs tires to prevent most or this old low profile tire problem.

On the questioning the value of Armor All protectant. Believe the false rumor had been started by all their competitors. To try to loosen Armor All's dominance of the auto detail product market? We use it to detail cleaned rubber products. Mostly on the tires and engine compartment hoses etc.

We have used Armor All to protect and preserve tires and everything rubber on our showcars, classics, dragrace cars, 4X4 trucks and even the rubber stuff in the shop for over twenty years. Have a street rod in here, that has fifteen year old raised white letter BFG's on it and they still look and feel brand new!! Anything rubber on the GT/CS gets this on it about twice a year! If there is a superior product for rubber protection out there, we sure have not found it yet! CalStang

GT/CS2008

Someones says that starting the car each 3 or 4 weeks is worst dommage than starting the baby just in spring, is that thru

nm3

Calstang - When I had a tonneau cover for my 2000 Silverado I was told that if I used any other protectant than 303 Protectant it would void the warranty. Since then I have used 303 for vinyl and plastic on all my vehicles (cars, truck, boat and sled). It has a UV protectant in it and I'm not sure of the others do or not.

CS2008 - I'm not sure. Personally, I can't think that it would be a bad thing to keep seals, parts etc. lubricated with a fresh coat of oil, or relative fluid. Plus it sure can lift your spirits a little by firing up the toy!

CalStang'07

Don't think that is entirely correct. My experience has been that during the winter storage, if not placed in a heated garage or using a full synthic oil, everything is frozen and the oil will be like honey. When you first fire it up, the parts are moving are rubbing with almost no real oil pressure lubing them at first. At idle this is not a real terrible thing for the motor. As we do that every day with our winter daily drivers. So it is a toss up for doing Stang warmups to rid the system of water vapors and re-lubing all of the engine parts. Or just doing some proper storage preps and then buttoning it all up for the winter. No real best way on this, as its your call. We have done it both ways over the years for the special summer rides.

We put the CalStang up for the coming winter this last weekend. Really enjoy doing all of the cleaning, polishing and detailing one more time etc. But kind of sad to have to cover him up and call it yet another season. Switching over to the Iowa winter Ford 4X4 driving fun! "RC"

CalStang'07

nm3: If you like 303 and are happy with the protective results, then that is all that really matters for your needs Bro! FYI: Believe that Armor All was one of the original UV protectant/preservers sold out there. Been around for about forty years now? Hey look at what was in the shop last Thursday!! The "KR" is such a Bad Boy!! The blower whistle sound is so very sweet!! The snow is arriving here today. Ratts. CalStang

QuarterHorse

Is this really necessary with todays tires? I stored my stang for 5 months last year with no jack stands and the tires were fine.

CalStang'07

It is our understanding is that it has something to do with the cold temps and the bending of the steel cords in the tires. When kept compressed for very long periods of storage time? Also. This seemed to have primarily shown up in the higher performance low profile, type summer tires. The more conventional tires (tuck/passenger) and regular profiles, seem to be pretty imune to this type of storage concern. Just our own observations over the years. Newer tire compounds may have now changed that? Unknown? CalStang

CalStang'07

[quote=CalStang'07;5667776]
Step-2. If you are using a rolling floor jack, place a square 2X4 oak block on the jack pad and lift up one side by the rear of the engine subframe body connect point. Lift only enough to get a jackstand installed under the uni-frame with a centered one foot long oak 2x4 piece of wood. Slowly lower on to the uni-frame, watching for a good fit/bite. Continue lowering and remove the floor jack.

Note: Follow-up option for Step-2. (This is for the newer shop guys).

FYI: If you own a large very low profile rolling floor jack. You can also do a single lift of the front end at the middle of the engine's K-member. Making very sure that the jack is completely centered. And also using some type of (no-slip) lift pad between the jack and the K-member. This is a little tricky and really should only be done on a very level concrete floor! Once the rear wheels have both been blocked and the Stang is elevated, place both of your jackstands and oak pads with your hands only! And DO NOT get under the Stang for any reason, until it has been slowly lowered and safely placed on to the jackstands! Then wiggle test it, to assure that it is now completely safe, before continuing any of your work!! Don't rush this! Always Be Safe!! CalStang

champ7

Calstang Can you show me this jacking point on the picture from the 1st page I think I know where your talking about, just want to make sure. Thanks

CalStang'07

Gladly champ7: This Mustang Racer display is a much better chassis picture for your reference. Note the "K" shaped subframe that attaches the engine and tranny to the uni-body structure. This unit is called the K-member. In the center you will find three stamped structural ribs. This is the loading area to place your centered rolling jackstand pad up against, for a safe front end lift on a smooth flat concrete floor!

This is probably the very strongest member in the whole chassis. As it has to support the engine and body weight, handle the stress loading of the steering action, the braking and tie the whole front of the Mustang together as a unit. The only real concern I have with folks using this area is, that if not properly connected, the jack can possibly slide off of this lift area! So be aware that if that were to happen, you could have damage to your front end and even an injury or worse. This is not really the very best front end lift choice, if one is just learning to work on these Mustangs!

Once mastered, it is a easy way to lift your Stang for home servicing. But some find no comfort in this approach and may just elect to service their Stang on lift ramps, which is great. But may be a little bit confining for moving around. Just use good judgement and be safe!! CalStang

champ7

Thanks calstang appreciate ur help.................

SINBUSTER007

i jacked the front up using the before said k member position and the whole front end lifts up. really nice when you dont have to go around to every corner. also quick question...some have used the rear pumkin to lift up the car what would i have to do so as to not scratch it and is there any special place to put the jack?

CalStang'07

SINB: Read my note #4 in the post #14 on this thread. That should cover your question? A piece of oak 2X4 about four inches long works well here. Or a good quality jack pad, placed centered and across the loading bearing area should do it. No scratches and a real good safe bite too! Just remember that the Ford manual does not recommend this type of lift on a S197 Mustang! FYI: The pumpkin and the third member are one in the same! Both are shop slang names for the rear end differential housing. Good Luck! Calstang

officespace56

I am going to be storing my car in a unheated garage this winter. Do you guys recommend that I take the battery out of the car and put in on a tender, or leave it in and tend it? I am worrying about it freezing (I live in Minnesota)

CalStang'07

OS56: If it is kept properly charged, the battery acid will not freeze down to a certain very cold level. Having wintered up there in the "Great White" North myself. Believe you should be just fine with a good quality maintenance trickle charger hookup, while the battery stays stored in the Mustang's tray. Unless of course you have a safe warm place to keep the battery while charging it? And thats in my opinion, not in your home's basement. As it releases hydrogen gases (safety) while charging! CalStang

BLCKNED

As far as winter (I'm from California but temporarily in Vancouver, BC) Should I get a set of winter tires? She still has her original BF Goodrich T/A KDWS tires. She gets real squirrely on the wet ground up here and living up near Grouse Mountain we are expecting some snow. Are winter tires the best way to go for a few months of snow?

UMich97

Any suggestions on what to do with the battery, if I do not have a power outlet in my garage? Should I just disconnect it, or put a tender on it in the house?

Also, if I take it out/disconnect it, I've heard I should lower the windows a bit, but then what about critters sneaking in?.....they seem to be able to get through the smallest of openings sometimes.

Thanks for the input.

UMich97

I put them on my '99, along with a sand bag or two in the trunk and I'd rather drive it in the snow than any sedan with all-season tires. However, I also used to drive it with the all-season's several years ago, so it's probably manageable either way. Might just depend on whether the improved handling is worth the cost of another set of tires. Of course, if you buy winter tires, then you can replace the all-season's with summer tires when they wear out. My summer Dunlops handle like a dream.

...one other note, if you're not used to driving in the snow. You'll notice the slipping much faster in a Mustang (due to rear wheel drive), but if you let off the gas, it should straighten out for you, giving you a good feel for what the road conditions are really like. With a front wheel drive car, they probably won't slip much, but when they do, you're hosed.

CalStang'07

BLCKNED: If it were me, would try to get a good cheap winter vehicle for work and just park the Stang! If that is not possible, than the next step is also a bit spendy. You should find some rims and winter tires for all four wheels. The BFG's are only good traction down to about 40 dry degrees and then they turn into big black slippery stones IMO. Back in the day when we only owned a pony car, would go with narrower wheels, deep cleated snows all round, full tank of gas and three big sand bags in the trunk area. with a chain set as backup! And this just barely got us around on the hills! Used to crawl up to a red light so the car never stopped. In real fear we would never get it rolling forward again. Good luck Bro! CalStang