Wintering GT/CS soon
10/27/08, 05:45 PM
#1
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Location: Quebec, Canada
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Wintering GT/CS soon
I would like your advise for wintering my GT/CS 2008 vert. She will be in a heated garage for about five months, yeah winter is long up here in Canada.
Regards
Regards
10/27/08, 06:38 PM
#2
Cobra R Member
Join Date: July 9, 2006
Location: Hillsboro MO, just south of St. Louis
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got room for another one... oops.. mines a daily driver...
best advice is keep the battery charged, stabil in the gas tank and a cover. Also start it once a month to keep the fluids moving.
best advice is keep the battery charged, stabil in the gas tank and a cover. Also start it once a month to keep the fluids moving.
10/27/08, 07:25 PM
#3
Mach 1 Member
"What works for Us Here"
This has been really covered before here. But in the interest of saving you the TMS searching blues, here goes what we do with the CalStang for winter storage.
1. Have at least five gallons of fresh gas in the tank. Add the correct amounts of Sta-Bil or of Sea Foam fuel stabilizers, for this long term storage.
2. Drive your Mustang 15 to 20 miles, to mix up the same and to also to pre-heat the existing old engine motor oil before removing.
3. Now change out the oil and oil filter with new replacement units, with the brands of your own choice.
4. Check the antifreeze protection state and then top off the radiator and wiper fuild tanks if required. Plus good time to inspect all those hoses and the belts in there for any wear or damage.
5. Wash and clean the entire Stang. Inside/out. Engine bay, vac. interior and even the trunk. Should be as clean as brand new for some polishing.
6. Polish and wax/seal all the painted/clearcoated surfaces. Even the wheels too!
7. Detail leather interiors with a leather conditioner like a Lexol type product. Detail interior parts (dash/doors) with cleaners and or protectants.
8. Air up the tires to about 45 pounds and then Armorall sidewalls outside and inside, to prevent any rubber dry cracking.
9. Armorall all of the door and trunk weatherstrip rubber gaskets. And even engine rubber stuff too.
10. Disconnect the Stang's 12 volt battery at the negative post and move cable.
11. Place the Mustang on 4-jackstands, so each tire is about one inch of of the floor. Or simply just remove the tires for dark storage.
12. Support the wiper blades off of the windshield. We use little foam blocks for this.
13. Cover tail pipes with some panyhose pieces and wrapped with rubber bands, to keep all the little critters out of there.
14. Install a good quality trickle battery charger with it's clips connected to the 12V battery terminal posts.
15. Put a good car cover over the Mustang and some old bed sheets over the tires/wheels, if still mounted on the Mustang.
16. Plug in the charger. Put away all of the cleaning supplies and turn off the lights! Your done here! Unless we have more great ideas on this from some other TMS Northern folks?
Next Spring you will again come out to a pretty brand new looking Mustang Pony. Good luck with these preps. So you can enjoy next year's startups even more!
CalStang
1. Have at least five gallons of fresh gas in the tank. Add the correct amounts of Sta-Bil or of Sea Foam fuel stabilizers, for this long term storage.
2. Drive your Mustang 15 to 20 miles, to mix up the same and to also to pre-heat the existing old engine motor oil before removing.
3. Now change out the oil and oil filter with new replacement units, with the brands of your own choice.
4. Check the antifreeze protection state and then top off the radiator and wiper fuild tanks if required. Plus good time to inspect all those hoses and the belts in there for any wear or damage.
5. Wash and clean the entire Stang. Inside/out. Engine bay, vac. interior and even the trunk. Should be as clean as brand new for some polishing.
6. Polish and wax/seal all the painted/clearcoated surfaces. Even the wheels too!
7. Detail leather interiors with a leather conditioner like a Lexol type product. Detail interior parts (dash/doors) with cleaners and or protectants.
8. Air up the tires to about 45 pounds and then Armorall sidewalls outside and inside, to prevent any rubber dry cracking.
9. Armorall all of the door and trunk weatherstrip rubber gaskets. And even engine rubber stuff too.
10. Disconnect the Stang's 12 volt battery at the negative post and move cable.
11. Place the Mustang on 4-jackstands, so each tire is about one inch of of the floor. Or simply just remove the tires for dark storage.
12. Support the wiper blades off of the windshield. We use little foam blocks for this.
13. Cover tail pipes with some panyhose pieces and wrapped with rubber bands, to keep all the little critters out of there.
14. Install a good quality trickle battery charger with it's clips connected to the 12V battery terminal posts.
15. Put a good car cover over the Mustang and some old bed sheets over the tires/wheels, if still mounted on the Mustang.
16. Plug in the charger. Put away all of the cleaning supplies and turn off the lights! Your done here! Unless we have more great ideas on this from some other TMS Northern folks?
Next Spring you will again come out to a pretty brand new looking Mustang Pony. Good luck with these preps. So you can enjoy next year's startups even more!
CalStang
Last edited by CalStang'07; 10/28/08 at 06:51 AM. Reason: Entertainment reading for the warm weather members.
10/27/08, 08:00 PM
#5
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This has been covered before here. But in the interest of saving you the TMS searching blues, here goes what we do here with the CalStang.
1. Have at least five gallons of fresh gas in the tank. Add the correct amounts of Sta-Bil or of Sea Foam fuel stabilizers, for long term storage.
2. Drive your Mustang 15 to 20 miles, to mix up the same and to also to pre-heat the existing old engine motor oil.
3. Now change out the oil and oil filter with new replacement units, with the brands of your own choice.
4. Check the antifreeze protecton state and top off radiator and wiper fuild tanks if required. Inspect all hoses and belts for wear of damage.
5. Wash and clean the entire Stang. Inside/out. Engine bay, vac interior and even the trunk. Should be as clean as brand new for some polishing.
6. Polish and wax/seal all the painted/clearcoated surfaces. Even the wheels too!
7. Detail leather interiors with a leather conditioner like a Lexol type product. Detail interior parts (dash/doors) with cleaners and or protectants.
8. Air up the tires to about 45 pounds and then Armorall sidewalls outside and inside, to prevent any rubber dry cracking.
9. Armorall all of the door and trunk weatherstrip rubber gaskets. And even engine rubber stuff too.
10. Disconnect the Stang's 12 volt battery at the negative post and move cable.
11. Place the Mustang on 4-jackstands, so each tire is about one inch of of the floor. Or simply just remove the tires for dark storage.
12. Support the wiper blades off of the windshield. We use little foam blocks for this.
13. Cover tail pipes with some panyhose pieces and wrapped with rubber bands, to keep all the little critters out of there.
14. Install a good quality trickle battery charger with it's clips connected to the 12V battery terminal posts.
15. Put good car cover over the Mustang and some old bed sheets over the tires/wheels, if still mounted on the Mustang.
16. Plug in the charger. Put away all of the cleaning supplies and turn off the lights! Your done here! Unless we have more ideas on this?
Next Spring you will again come out to a pretty brand new looking Mustang Pony. Good luck. So you can enjoy next year! CalStang
1. Have at least five gallons of fresh gas in the tank. Add the correct amounts of Sta-Bil or of Sea Foam fuel stabilizers, for long term storage.
2. Drive your Mustang 15 to 20 miles, to mix up the same and to also to pre-heat the existing old engine motor oil.
3. Now change out the oil and oil filter with new replacement units, with the brands of your own choice.
4. Check the antifreeze protecton state and top off radiator and wiper fuild tanks if required. Inspect all hoses and belts for wear of damage.
5. Wash and clean the entire Stang. Inside/out. Engine bay, vac interior and even the trunk. Should be as clean as brand new for some polishing.
6. Polish and wax/seal all the painted/clearcoated surfaces. Even the wheels too!
7. Detail leather interiors with a leather conditioner like a Lexol type product. Detail interior parts (dash/doors) with cleaners and or protectants.
8. Air up the tires to about 45 pounds and then Armorall sidewalls outside and inside, to prevent any rubber dry cracking.
9. Armorall all of the door and trunk weatherstrip rubber gaskets. And even engine rubber stuff too.
10. Disconnect the Stang's 12 volt battery at the negative post and move cable.
11. Place the Mustang on 4-jackstands, so each tire is about one inch of of the floor. Or simply just remove the tires for dark storage.
12. Support the wiper blades off of the windshield. We use little foam blocks for this.
13. Cover tail pipes with some panyhose pieces and wrapped with rubber bands, to keep all the little critters out of there.
14. Install a good quality trickle battery charger with it's clips connected to the 12V battery terminal posts.
15. Put good car cover over the Mustang and some old bed sheets over the tires/wheels, if still mounted on the Mustang.
16. Plug in the charger. Put away all of the cleaning supplies and turn off the lights! Your done here! Unless we have more ideas on this?
Next Spring you will again come out to a pretty brand new looking Mustang Pony. Good luck. So you can enjoy next year!
CalStang
10/28/08, 10:14 AM
#8
Mach 1 Member
This has been really covered before here. But in the interest of saving you the TMS searching blues, here goes what we do with the CalStang for winter storage.
1. Have at least five gallons of fresh gas in the tank. Add the correct amounts of Sta-Bil or of Sea Foam fuel stabilizers, for this long term storage.
2. Drive your Mustang 15 to 20 miles, to mix up the same and to also to pre-heat the existing old engine motor oil before removing.
3. Now change out the oil and oil filter with new replacement units, with the brands of your own choice.
4. Check the antifreeze protection state and then top off the radiator and wiper fuild tanks if required. Plus good time to inspect all those hoses and the belts in there for any wear or damage.
5. Wash and clean the entire Stang. Inside/out. Engine bay, vac. interior and even the trunk. Should be as clean as brand new for some polishing.
6. Polish and wax/seal all the painted/clearcoated surfaces. Even the wheels too!
7. Detail leather interiors with a leather conditioner like a Lexol type product. Detail interior parts (dash/doors) with cleaners and or protectants.
8. Air up the tires to about 45 pounds and then Armorall sidewalls outside and inside, to prevent any rubber dry cracking.
9. Armorall all of the door and trunk weatherstrip rubber gaskets. And even engine rubber stuff too.
10. Disconnect the Stang's 12 volt battery at the negative post and move cable.
11. Place the Mustang on 4-jackstands, so each tire is about one inch of of the floor. Or simply just remove the tires for dark storage.
12. Support the wiper blades off of the windshield. We use little foam blocks for this.
13. Cover tail pipes with some panyhose pieces and wrapped with rubber bands, to keep all the little critters out of there.
14. Install a good quality trickle battery charger with it's clips connected to the 12V battery terminal posts.
15. Put a good car cover over the Mustang and some old bed sheets over the tires/wheels, if still mounted on the Mustang.
16. Plug in the charger. Put away all of the cleaning supplies and turn off the lights! Your done here! Unless we have more great ideas on this from some other TMS Northern folks?
Next Spring you will again come out to a pretty brand new looking Mustang Pony. Good luck with these preps. So you can enjoy next year's startups even more! CalStang
1. Have at least five gallons of fresh gas in the tank. Add the correct amounts of Sta-Bil or of Sea Foam fuel stabilizers, for this long term storage.
2. Drive your Mustang 15 to 20 miles, to mix up the same and to also to pre-heat the existing old engine motor oil before removing.
3. Now change out the oil and oil filter with new replacement units, with the brands of your own choice.
4. Check the antifreeze protection state and then top off the radiator and wiper fuild tanks if required. Plus good time to inspect all those hoses and the belts in there for any wear or damage.
5. Wash and clean the entire Stang. Inside/out. Engine bay, vac. interior and even the trunk. Should be as clean as brand new for some polishing.
6. Polish and wax/seal all the painted/clearcoated surfaces. Even the wheels too!
7. Detail leather interiors with a leather conditioner like a Lexol type product. Detail interior parts (dash/doors) with cleaners and or protectants.
8. Air up the tires to about 45 pounds and then Armorall sidewalls outside and inside, to prevent any rubber dry cracking.
9. Armorall all of the door and trunk weatherstrip rubber gaskets. And even engine rubber stuff too.
10. Disconnect the Stang's 12 volt battery at the negative post and move cable.
11. Place the Mustang on 4-jackstands, so each tire is about one inch of of the floor. Or simply just remove the tires for dark storage.
12. Support the wiper blades off of the windshield. We use little foam blocks for this.
13. Cover tail pipes with some panyhose pieces and wrapped with rubber bands, to keep all the little critters out of there.
14. Install a good quality trickle battery charger with it's clips connected to the 12V battery terminal posts.
15. Put a good car cover over the Mustang and some old bed sheets over the tires/wheels, if still mounted on the Mustang.
16. Plug in the charger. Put away all of the cleaning supplies and turn off the lights! Your done here! Unless we have more great ideas on this from some other TMS Northern folks?
Next Spring you will again come out to a pretty brand new looking Mustang Pony. Good luck with these preps. So you can enjoy next year's startups even more!
CalStangi do the same with the exception of the satabil in gas and charger, but when i clean it, i clay bar, paint cleaner, polish, and then wax. yes vacuum and detail interior, take tires off, and clean under the car and wherever my little fingers can reach. takes more than a couple day too. oh and did i mention i do this to both of mine so double the fun!!!!
10/28/08, 12:18 PM
#10
Mach 1 Member
"It is just an option"
Frank: It is just an option. When the battery is disconnected, everything is powered down. So that nothing is constantly drawing trickle current from storage, i.e. the alarm system etc. Then your charger will work a little less, trying to maintain the battery cells at full capacity.
One thing I did forget to tell you was, that each door window should be lowered about one half inch before the battery disconnection. Because if you want in to your Stang's interior during storage, the automatic window short drop glass will not be working.
Also when you reconnect the battery, you will have to re-calibrate all your windows up/down cycles. Instructions as shown in the 2007 Mustang Owner's Manual, page #53 (Short Drop Glass). If in doubt at all, just leave your battery hooked up. You will still be fine with this choice also.
Think Spring!! CalStang
One thing I did forget to tell you was, that each door window should be lowered about one half inch before the battery disconnection. Because if you want in to your Stang's interior during storage, the automatic window short drop glass will not be working.
Also when you reconnect the battery, you will have to re-calibrate all your windows up/down cycles. Instructions as shown in the 2007 Mustang Owner's Manual, page #53 (Short Drop Glass). If in doubt at all, just leave your battery hooked up. You will still be fine with this choice also.
Think Spring!!
CalStang
Last edited by CalStang'07; 10/28/08 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Addition
10/28/08, 06:54 PM
#12
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I've always been a fan of driving when street conditions permit (dry,no salt). I live in Chicago and with the exception of last winter there has always been opportunities to drive on dry streets on and off thru the middle January. So that means it really only sits from the middle of Jan. thru the end of Feb. about 45 days. I have never had any issues doing winters this way. I figure some of these cars sit on dealers lots for close to a year. With that said I also agree with Calstang's list if your going to completely shut her down for 4-5 months.
10/28/08, 07:17 PM
#13
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
My last car was 30 years old when I sold it.
Drove and ran like brand new.
The tires were 10 years old and drove 2000+ mi. to it's new home.
Always kept in a dark heated garage.
Here's some of my opinions.
.
8. I don't bother. I just change the tires every 10 years or less.
11. I don't bother. I just change the springs when needed.(Never in last car)
12. I don't bother. I never use these anyway.
13. I don't bother. A sealed heated garage has no critters.
All the polish and Armorall is my exercise program for the month of December.
Drove and ran like brand new.
The tires were 10 years old and drove 2000+ mi. to it's new home.
Always kept in a dark heated garage.
Here's some of my opinions.
.
8. I don't bother. I just change the tires every 10 years or less.
11. I don't bother. I just change the springs when needed.(Never in last car)
12. I don't bother. I never use these anyway.
13. I don't bother. A sealed heated garage has no critters.
All the polish and Armorall is my exercise program for the month of December.
10/28/08, 08:15 PM
#14
Mach 1 Member
"Our Way"
Wow this one will surely open up Pandoria's box! There are a lot of different ideas about the correct placement of the four jackstands. You could look this up in your Mustang Owners manuel for lift points. But this is pretty worthless. As they show a drawing of a different year Mustang. And they don't really recommend lifting the Mustang back end by the rearend's third member or axle tubes. A possible lawsuit thing for sure?
I won't begin to say what is the very best choice. Only what we have done for here for years. This version is for if the tires and wheels will remain on the Mustang. New guys, Go slow. This can be very dangerous.
1. First you should place four blocks on both the rear tires. In both the front and rear of these tires. Mustang in low/reverse gear or placed in park for automatic models. Parking brake set full up also. Lets be safe!!
2. If you are using a rolling floor jack, place a square 2X4 oak block on the jack pad and lift up one side by the rear of the engine subframe body connect point. Lift only enough to get a jack stand installed under the uni-frame with a centered one foot long oak 2x4 piece of wood. Slowly lower on to the uni-frame, watching for a good fit/bite. Continue lowering and remove the floor jack.
3. Repeat this same lift procedure on the opposite side until both of the tires are now clearing the floor. Remove floor jack and proceed to the rear lift.
4. With the floor jack and 2X4 oak block pad centered on the third member. Gently and slowly lift Mustang up just enough to clear jackstands.
5. On each side place a jackstand under the rear axle tube at about six inches away from the lower control arm connection point.
6. Lay one foot long oak 2x4 wood pieces, centered on each of the jackstands. Have them laying length wise along the middle of the axle tubes. These oak wood pieces spread the weight loading forces along the axle tubes.
7. Gently lower the axle tubes onto the wood. Watching for good centering and for even loading along the length of the wood. All tires should now just clear the floor by about an inch or so. Remove floor jack. You can now release the parking brake. Our Way..
CalStang
P.S. As shown on this example picture. We only use the blue color support areas, to place our one foot long 2X4 oak wood pad pieces with the jack stands.
I won't begin to say what is the very best choice. Only what we have done for here for years. This version is for if the tires and wheels will remain on the Mustang. New guys, Go slow. This can be very dangerous.
1. First you should place four blocks on both the rear tires. In both the front and rear of these tires. Mustang in low/reverse gear or placed in park for automatic models. Parking brake set full up also. Lets be safe!!
2. If you are using a rolling floor jack, place a square 2X4 oak block on the jack pad and lift up one side by the rear of the engine subframe body connect point. Lift only enough to get a jack stand installed under the uni-frame with a centered one foot long oak 2x4 piece of wood. Slowly lower on to the uni-frame, watching for a good fit/bite. Continue lowering and remove the floor jack.
3. Repeat this same lift procedure on the opposite side until both of the tires are now clearing the floor. Remove floor jack and proceed to the rear lift.
4. With the floor jack and 2X4 oak block pad centered on the third member. Gently and slowly lift Mustang up just enough to clear jackstands.
5. On each side place a jackstand under the rear axle tube at about six inches away from the lower control arm connection point.
6. Lay one foot long oak 2x4 wood pieces, centered on each of the jackstands. Have them laying length wise along the middle of the axle tubes. These oak wood pieces spread the weight loading forces along the axle tubes.
7. Gently lower the axle tubes onto the wood. Watching for good centering and for even loading along the length of the wood. All tires should now just clear the floor by about an inch or so. Remove floor jack. You can now release the parking brake. Our Way..
CalStangP.S. As shown on this example picture. We only use the blue color support areas, to place our one foot long 2X4 oak wood pad pieces with the jack stands.
Last edited by CalStang'07; 10/29/08 at 06:28 AM. Reason: Additions
10/29/08, 05:05 AM
#16
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I say drive it as well, BUT one thing I learned about with my '65 Vert is when you store it also place Bounty (or some other brand) of dryer sheets in the passenger cpmpatment, trunk & engine bay as they work much better then moth ***** to keep the critters out plus they make the car smell better. Just remeber to take the sheets out of the engine compartment prior to starting it.
My '07 GT/CS is my daily driver so I do wash it quiet regularly and wax it often to keep it looking sweet.
My '07 GT/CS is my daily driver so I do wash it quiet regularly and wax it often to keep it looking sweet.
10/29/08, 06:34 AM
#17
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Thanks Calstang for the information on jack stand placement , really wanted this info for swaping out the shifter this winter would this still be ur recomendation for working under the car, and for oil changes too. Thanks for your help .
10/29/08, 10:37 AM
#18
Mach 1 Member
"Thoughts on jackstand use"
We use some 6-ton HD truck jackstands here. Which are welded angle iron legs with cast iron lift stems. But only because we also work on some heavy 4X4s and large trucks etc. This would probably be a little bit of over kill for your needs. The larger units will give you a lot more jackstand lifting distance/clearence from the floor.
That being said. I would not crawl under a set of cheap tack welded bargain basement units. A good set of 2.5 ton or better jackstands placed on smooth level concrete, should be more that enough safety or your project ideas.
Also when under there, I use the big floor jack as an extra bit of safety along with the jackstands during my Stang service projects. Ether placed under the differential member (rear) or in the middle of the engine subframe K-member (front) with the 2X4 oak wood pad!
Lastly. Once the Mustang is lifted up and before you crawl under there. Just try to wiggle the body just a little bit, to validate that it is indeed solidly supported as you believe it to be!
Once again. These are not the only ideas out there. Just what we do in our shop. And these safety things, are the same ones I taught my own sons, when they began working on Mustangs in high school. Hope we helped you! Be safe and have fun working on a piece of history!!
CalStang
Last edited by CalStang'07; 10/29/08 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Oops! Sorry Steve not Frank. My Bad. "RC"
10/31/08, 04:59 AM
#20
Cobra Member
holy smokes. I think if I had to park something for 5-6 months, I would just buy a 4x4 and say screw it. Id rather drive it once a week or so, vs doing that monster list (even though its cool you wrote all that up calstang).
Mine will only be parked due to snow/ice or excessive rock being put down on the road. other than that, its on the street.
Mine will only be parked due to snow/ice or excessive rock being put down on the road. other than that, its on the street.