Parts and labor if done by ford dealer...

Lets see...what's worse.

Price of the car: ------------$32,500

repairs: ----------------------$5,800

Trip to get car: ---------------$1000 (est)

Time & effort: ----------------$ ??

Time car will spend -----------$ ??
in shop,cant drive it
while in the shop

It starts to add up...

Ah, the things we do for the cars we love



___________________

 

CooBra07 - Allow me to correct your math a bit.

Purchase price - $32,500 less $1,500 held back in case repairs are not covered by warranty.

Clutch if repaired by dealer - $5,800 but complete clutch including flywheel is available on ebay for $990. Add release bearing, pilot bushing, fluids and labor to that.

Unknown differential noise could cost $1500+ if done by dealer. Could be lesser problem???

Trip to Chicago on train - $32.00, gas to get home ~ $20.00

Aggrevation and stress - priceless.

 

Almost worse than the money involved. Not quite but almost. I echo everybody else in hoping that you come out at least even in this.

 

$5,800 for a clutch job at the dealer is highway robbery.

 

" buying a used car is buying someone elses headache".. hope everything works for you

 

Thanks Principalpony...lol I apologize if my math was off.......ok, way off ! but you have to admitt a was getting close..he he

One more thing you can add to that equation, is time away from home, the family and the wife...that one's got to be the kicker!

Anywho, hope everything works out for you in the end and finally get a chance to really enjoy the car. I know I do, everyday...and may I rub it in ... 'even in the winter' he he.

Get Some Pictures so we can CHECK HER OUT ALREADY!



_______________

 

+1

Its going to be a very close race to the finish


___________________-

 

The clutch is not what is going wrong with our cars. It is the flywheel that warps and in turn damages the clutch. In some cases (mine) the damage goes beyond clutch. Mine still has the grind after the clutch and flywheel have been replaced. It is going back to the dealer when the parts arrive. Idon't know what parts he is planning to replace this time. I would guess synchronizers.

 

How many miles were on your when you started to notice a problem, originally?

What were the signs? Is there already a different thread (about your problems) on this?

 

If the seller gave you another 4500 to make it 6k, that would be pretty cool, cover the clutch and if you had to put a few more bucks into it, still got a good deal overall.

 

Hard to say. The shifts were just a little "grabby" at first. I wasn't even sure I had a problem. The grabby started to get a little more noticeable. Eventually, the shifts started to feel like a grind at times. IT didn't grind, but, you could feel it engage the gears roughly. I'd say about 6500 miles was when it was clear that something was wrong.

The signs vary. Some have trouble getting into gear period. Some have hissing when the clutch is fully engaged (it is normal to hiss as it engages and disengages). Some had slippage with clutch engaged. Some could not drive it at all.

Here is a thread from KEvin Clevenger about teh TSB:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=471756

There is much more extensive info on teamshelby.com. I don't go there anymore, but, I am sure it is discussed extensively.

 

Sorry, but I don't have any pics yet as it has been at the dealer since I brought it home.

So does everybody with an 07-08 GT500 have clutch problems (caused by flywheel warpage), or is this a matter related to type of driving? If this problem is so common, has Ford come out with a better flywheel? Would an aftermarket flywheel be a better choice in my situation? If Ford doesn't warranty it, I could put any aftermarket parts in it I want. dgussin1 tried to tell me Centerforce would be an upgrade, but Paul's High Performance said Centerforce is a downgrade & that nothing is as good as the Ford clutch. How about a little advice on this?

 

I think everyone has their own opinions on clutch's, it differs shop to shop just like a lot of other parts. I don't see how anyone could consider Centerforce a downgrade but to each his own...

 

Some owners have tried Centerforce and gone back to the factory one.

All the 07-08's have the potential to warp the flywheel due to heat and wreck the clutch.
One person took their Shelby on a parade route and had to have it towed to the dealer.
Could not get it in or out of any gear at the end of the parade.

As crazyhorse suggested.....
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/ind...1&#entry489251


__________________________________________________ _________________
This may help - Print a copy and take along with you!!!!

TSB
08-16-4 SHELBY GT500 - CLUTCH DRAG

Publication Date: July 28, 2008

FORD: 2007-2009 Mustang


ISSUE:
Some 2007-2009 Mustang Shelby GT500 vehicles may exhibit the following clutch/transmission symptoms: hard to disengage or engage 1st and reverse, hard to shift any gear, gear grinding during shifts any gear, vehicle creeps with trans in gear and clutch pedal fully depressed without brake pedal application, clutch slippage in gear with clutch pedal released, hiss noise with clutch pedal fully depressed (hiss on clutch pedal release is normal for GT500 clutch material). These symptoms may be due to flywheel distortion caused by excessive heat build-up during unique traffic conditions (example: severe stop/go urban driving). The distortion of the flywheel may prevent complete disengagement of the clutch. The system is designed for performance driving conditions.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: THIS ARTICLE APPLIES TO VEHICLES WITH PRIOR REPAIRS, AS WELL AS THOSE WITH MINOR MODIFICATIONS, EXHIBITING ABOVE SYMPTOMS.



NOTE: THE GT500 CLUTCH SHOULD BE DIAGNOSED/REMOVED/REPLACED AS A COMPLETE ASSEMBLY ONLY. DO NOT TAKE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY APART.



Remove, drain, disassemble and clean the transmission per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 308-03C.
Remove and replace input shaft and all synchronizer assemblies per WSM, Section 308-03C.
Assemble the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C.
Remove clutch disc and plate assembly and pilot bearing per WSM, Section 308-01.
Remove and replace flywheel per WSM, Section 303-01C. Discard old bolts and use bolts provided in flywheel kit.
Install new pilot bearing per WSM, Section 308-01.
Install new clutch disc and plate assembly per online WSM, Section 308-01 (vehicles with solid design flywheel). Discard old bolts and use bolts provided in clutch kit. Tighten bolts to 89 lb-in (10 N-m) in a star pattern. Tighten an additional 90 degrees in a star pattern.
Apply a small amount of Motorcraft® PTFE Lubricant to the clutch hub splines per WSM, Section 308-01.
Install the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
7R3Z-6375-B Flywheel Kit
7R3Z-7L596-A Clutch Kit
7R3Z-7C391-A Trans Kit
XG-8 Motorcraft® PTFE Lubricant
XT-5-QM Motorcraft® MERCON V-Transmission Fluid
PM-1-C Motorcraft® High Performance DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid
XG-1-C Motorcraft® Premium Long-Life Grease
TA-30 Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket and Sealant
TA-25 Motorcraft® Threadlock and Sealer
F6ZZ-7600-A Pilot Bearing
1R3Z-7052-AA Transmission Input Shaft Oil Seal


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
081604A 2007-2009 Mustang GT500: Replace The Input Shaft, Synchronizer Assemblies, Clutch Disc And Plate Assembly, Pilot Bearing and, Flywheel Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission (Do Not Use With 7003A, 7003A2, 7003A3, 7003A6, 1007D7, 5212B) 7.4 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
6375 69

 

I nearly pissed my pants when I read this reply! LMFAO!!!

Absolutely no way would I personally pay $32k for somebody elses ragged out car. I want to be the one to abuse my $32,000 dollars, but that's just me. 22,000 miles going on 222,000 miles with all the beating it's taken.

Good luck but I'da already stopped payment on the check.

 

I know your taking some flack on this car but I wouldn't sweat it too much. You got a GT500 for 32000 dollars, sure its a little screwed up but it sounds like its nothing that can't be fixed. Did you ever consider doing your own work for the clutch install? It's not difficult and you'll save yourself $$$$. I would leave the rear alone for now and do that at a later date. Try to chip away at your repais a little at a time and don't get to worked up about doing everything at once. You can find alot of people who are building the **** out of these cars and selling their stock parts. I would try to aquire the stock parts online or whatever. It blows that it's a little f'd up but on the bright side atleat you can say that your working th restore a shelby GT500 to its original beauty.......right????? Now put up some pics of this monster so we can see her.

 

Opinions are expected. The flip side is the valuable information and advice he has received.

 

I'm with this guy. It's a plus you have a car your not afraid to drive the **** out of

 

Thanks for the support and advice. As far as doing the clutch myself, I can do that and I have done several before on Mustangs and other cars. I used to have a nice 32x40x10 insulated, heated, w/water, etc pole barn where I restored a '66 Mustang fastaback, a '67 Mustang 'vert, built up a '95 GT vert w/twin turbos, tremmec 3550, cobra clutch, etc. We also had a 3-car garage. That was two homes ago. Being that my wife perfers to live in a subdivision, I've had to settle for a decent size 3-car garage. I'd rather have this clutch professionally installed by those who have experience with GT500 (like Paul's HP). Warranty is the best option for seller and me. Being that seller is responsible for clutch & diff problems, I shouldn't have to do the R&R myself.

As I stated before, I do plan to DRIVE this GT500, but not nearly as hard (or as often) as seller did. If Ford doesn't warranty this, I think it can be made right for $3-5k. If clutch & diff are fixed with no costs to me (other than time and aggravation) then the $32.5k I paid is probably a fair deal, just not the great deal I thought it would be.

Bottom line, I will end up with a cool GT500 to have and enjoy for many years to come.

 

my two uninformed cents worth i have seen a couple of aftermarket hydraulic throw out actuators for the mustang they say because the factory one isn't up to it