=HYPERDRIVE=

The time is coming and Im about 2-3 weeks from letting her go to sleep for the winter. I don't do much miles on it, last year managed to put on 3000 miles, and let the dealer change the oil ( xo5w20qfs ) before I winterized the car. This year I just put in 2500 miles on it, and questioning if I should change the oil now before winterizing, or wait until spring and then change it?
At the same time I'm planning on doing the oil change by myself , with royal purple oil/filter.

Should I even consider changing it after just 3000 miles? the more and more I read about synthetic oil, the more it points to 5000 mile intervals minimum. Dealer put in synthetic oil (xo5w20qfs ) , but their sticker on the window states to come back after 3000 miles.

Ltngdrvr

Wait to change it so that any condensation gets drained out after storage.

Michael Broadway

+1

kylerohde

And changing synthetic oil after 3,000 miles is a complete waste.

mfc133

Yeah these cars can go past 5K miles no problem on synthetic. It's why the 5.0 has an 8qt pan compared to a 5-6qt pan on a normal car. It affords you longer oil change intervals.

When you "winter" your car, do you leave it untouched in the garage all winter? Or do you start it up and drive around the block every so often?

Bucko

With the quality synthetics and filters that are available these days, they can go 10K between changes. It's all in how they are driven. In the OP's case, he only puts on 2000 to 3000 a year, so he has to change the oil in the spring, as it sits too long.

I use the mileage indicator to judge my changes. I drive on average, 400 to 600 miles a week, so I use good quality synthetics, and run them to the max.

FromZto5

Yep... This is what I do minus the driving around the block. If there's snow or any condensation or salt on the ground my car does not touch it.

I literally do not do any "winterizing" on the car… I just simply don't drive it but start her up every two weeks or so with a battery trickle charger of course.

To the original question of the thread, I only change oil once a year with Amsoil full synthetic.

Horspla

I know everybody is going to do what they have always done or what has worked for them in the past, and if they’ve had success, why change? …well there could be good reason to change since what you don’t see could be hurting your engine. I will share with you some insights I have based on real world experience. I maintain a P-51C with a Packard built Rolls Royce Merlin in it. A freshened up engine from (In our case) Roush costs around $235,000 so between that and the frightful cost/dire implications of an inflight failure due to improper maintenance or extended storage procedures, there’s not a lot of experimentation I’ll allow!

Rule 1) Depending on how tight and clean your engine runs, oil that has been run for a period of time will have combustion acids in it. It’s best to dump that oil in favor of fresh oil prior to storage. After changing the oil, start and run the engine long enough to get it THOROUGHLY warmed up to operating temperature, including the oil (A 20 to 30 minute drive should do). This coats the engines internal surfaces with fresh, acid free oil that is relatively devoid of moisture.

Rule 2) Never start an engine that is in storage unless you plan to run it hard enough and long enough to boil all the moisture produced by the cold start, out of the inside of the engine, including the oil. A start and idle for 20 minutes isn’t going to do it! In fact it will do more harm than any good it is intended to provide, no question. Moisture will build up inside the engine and exhaust causing corrosion (Yes, I’m aware Ford uses SST for most of its exhaust components…I’m also aware that even SST corrodes!).

The best treatment you can give your Coyote is to change the oil just before hibernation and take it on one last short cruise to make sure everything is at operating temp and has had enough time to boil off any moisture produced during the cold start (20 to 30 minutes). Park your steed where it’s not going to be bothered for the rest of the storage period and put a battery tender on it. Every two to three weeks go out and turn the key on, matt the accelerator (Which during an initial start shuts the fuel off to the injectors so it won’t start) and crank the engine for a second or two. The relocates the cam load to different valve springs and re-lubes the cylinder walls without building up combustion moisture and acids. Any condensate that may naturally occur through normal ambient temp and humidity cycles will be water only and very minimal. This moisture will boil away on your first 20 minute ride when you wake her up in the spring.

I know some people swear by fuel stabilizers but I firmly believe they no longer have any relevance in modern cars with tight fuel systems using EFI. Permeation, evaporation and oxidization are the enemies. The fuel is so tightly contained in these new systems, it can’t evaporate or permeate through its components. The only oxygen that can get at it is in the void space in the fuel cell and that’s minimal. Once the oxygen in the air inside the cell has reached its saturation point, it really can’t break any more fuel down until more oxygen is made available. Case in point: Years ago we received a Navy SBD that was lost to the depths of Lake Michigan after the cat launch failed and dumped the airplane overboard. We received the airplane shortly after its recovery and found the fuel cells were still intact and full of fuel. The fuel was as fresh as the day it was pumped into the airplane…no oxygen, tightly sealed and fresh after a 60 year swim in Lake Michigan.

My 2 cents guys and gals,
John

cdynaco

Yes change the oil. It's not about how great one oil is over another, its about getting the blow-by contaminants out of the crankcase. Have you ever smelled the stuff out of an oil sep? Its an oil/fuel/exhaust type of smell.
I change every fall before storage regardless of miles driven that summer.

Don't be fooled - this pic is on fresh oil:

Bucko

Glad I can drive year round.

Ltngdrvr

Don't use a trickle charger for stored cars, bad for the battery, only use a battery tender/maintainer.

PonyMuscletang13

Changing the oil can be a headache sometimes. Don't let the tick come to you.

FromZto5

I guess I don't know the proper name of it. It's those automatic things that you could leave forever plugged in and hooked up. It's all automatic. But then again I don't leave it plugged it all winter. I just hook it up every 2-3 weeks whenever I start her up. Then unplug once charged, and leave unplugged until next start.

I still am not sure about the self oil change = tick, myth. Some/most folks (like me for example) who changed the oil since very low miles never had the tick. Not sure if it's a latent defect of their actual engine from the get go or what...

Michael Broadway

That brings up a question I've often wondered, but haven't ever received a logical answer for. Is there a shelf life on synthetic oil in the can? If not, why would there be a "time limit" on how long it can stay in your car? In other words, if it's recommended to change your oil at 5K miles, what if it takes you two years to put that many miles on the car? Can't you keep running it for two years without changing it? I haven't checked, but do oil cans have a "Best if used by" date on them like meat from the grocery store? If not, there's no way to tell how long the oil has been in the can.

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I just wonder what would cause it to go bad other than heat and friction?

PonyMuscletang13

The tick is not a myth. I could care less until it happened to me, surprised to find out quite a few others are having the same issue.

I have always let the dealership do the oil change, wanting to use 'Ford Recommended' products job done by Ford people. I believe they used Motorcraft Full Synthetic just like last time (this was a 2nd oil change).

This 'Tick' leads me to believe the Motorcraft stuff is not a great fit, at least not anymore. I might need to look into Royal Purple or Amsoil like many forum members prefer to use.

FromZto5

Myth or not, luckily no issue for me, 3 oil changes now. Btw, I've used Amsoil from day one.

cdynaco

Condensation is a factor.

PonyMuscletang13

Amsoil... Hmm. Where do we get these, and what's the best suitable grade (such as 5W-20) for GTs?

kylerohde

Amsoil is sold by independent dealers - find one near you at www.amsoil.com.

FromZto5

Thanks Kyle.

Best stuff. I get mine from a buddy who knows a dealer.