Trouble shifting at high rpms
#1
Trouble shifting at high rpms
I have a mostly stock 2011 5.0 (x pipe and a handheld tune) I'm having trouble shifting 1st 2nd and 3d gear I have the stock shifter and it becomes very tight and hard to get in gear during wot this just started 2 weeks ago never had this problem before , when driving around normally I have no problems but when I want to really get on it it's really hard to shift it into gear but it does not do this from 3d to 4th or 4th to 5th. It started when I was racing and missed 3d gear then the car would not go into gear at all right after that. I had to turn it off and put it in 1st and take it home like that I got it into a shop and they purged the clutch line and it seemed to be working just fine after that but now it's really hard to get it into gear when I want to shift aggressively. Any ideas of the problem?
#2
I had that problem with my Mach1. It started 2/3 but soon affected 1/2 also at wot. I was faced with rebuilding T3650 or replacing. I bought a built T3650 rated for 850HP about 6 months before I totaled it on black ice (Feb 2010). I still have the original T3650 in my garage.
#3
Mach 1 Member
your getting a binding between the trans and shifter.
I had the same thing going on.
I went the cheapest fix route.
new Steeda shifter bracket and trans mount insert.
fixed the problem for me and was the cheapest solution.
I had the same thing going on.
I went the cheapest fix route.
new Steeda shifter bracket and trans mount insert.
fixed the problem for me and was the cheapest solution.
#4
What part of that is causing the issue? I am starting to get that on mine and it is driving me crazy. I thought the issue is the Shfter shaft and that is why the MGW has a different design?
#6
Mach 1 Member
I do agree the MGW race spec will solve all the issues but it not cheap!
The shift bracket and trans bushing will keep the trans from rotating as much and binding up the shift linkage.
The MGW gets ride of all of that by mounting the shifter to just the trans not the body.
But if you only want to spend $80 in stead of $500 the bushing and bracket do the trick.
The shift bracket and trans bushing will keep the trans from rotating as much and binding up the shift linkage.
The MGW gets ride of all of that by mounting the shifter to just the trans not the body.
But if you only want to spend $80 in stead of $500 the bushing and bracket do the trick.
#7
I do agree the MGW race spec will solve all the issues but it not cheap!
The shift bracket and trans bushing will keep the trans from rotating as much and binding up the shift linkage.
The MGW gets ride of all of that by mounting the shifter to just the trans not the body.
But if you only want to spend $80 in stead of $500 the bushing and bracket do the trick.
The shift bracket and trans bushing will keep the trans from rotating as much and binding up the shift linkage.
The MGW gets ride of all of that by mounting the shifter to just the trans not the body.
But if you only want to spend $80 in stead of $500 the bushing and bracket do the trick.
would you you recommend getting the mgw shifter or the blowfish bracket? I just really want to get rid of this problem It gets really frustrating, I get locked out mostly every single time
#10
Alright I'll be looking into it, The clutch pedal seems to be sticking to the floor until the Rpms drop back down so I'm not so shure of the problem I'll be taking it to a shop soon.
#11
The clutch pedal sticking at high rpms may be due to the stock clutch assist spring. The high rate spring makes the clutch push in easily, but sometimes causes the pedal to stick down at high rpms. You may want to try removing the spring or switching to a lower rate spring to see if it fixes the problem.
#12
It's really weird the card threw me in reverse today instead of first I tried it multiple times putting it in first and it kept putting me in reverse and when I'm reverse it went forward as if it was 1st (I applied no pressure downward)