Shifting Pointers.
#21
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1. Change the trans fluid to a quality synthetic. I used Redline MTL, it really smoothes out the 1-2 shift.
2. Replace the rear POS bushing in the shifter. I used the Energy Suspension urethane bushing. Under $20 and it fixed the missed 2-3 upshift under high revs. Any of the other brackets will work, but none are as cheap and no NVH.
3. Don't force the shifter. It likes a gentle touch.
My 2 cents...
2. Replace the rear POS bushing in the shifter. I used the Energy Suspension urethane bushing. Under $20 and it fixed the missed 2-3 upshift under high revs. Any of the other brackets will work, but none are as cheap and no NVH.
3. Don't force the shifter. It likes a gentle touch.
My 2 cents...
#23
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As with ALL aftermarket modifications, it can only cause a problem with the warranty if Ford can prove the part you installed caused the issue you need to have fixed. So...if you install aftermarket suspension parts that cause your ball joints to fail, Ford will deny your warranty claim. If you install a new shifter/bracket, and your engine throws a rod, they aren't going to deny your warranty claim.
#24
My dealer knows everything that has been done to my car and we both have a clear understanding of where the line is so to speak.
If I cross it on my accord then I am responsible. No surprises that way.
#25
V6 Member
As with ALL aftermarket modifications, it can only cause a problem with the warranty if Ford can prove the part you installed caused the issue you need to have fixed. So...if you install aftermarket suspension parts that cause your ball joints to fail, Ford will deny your warranty claim. If you install a new shifter/bracket, and your engine throws a rod, they aren't going to deny your warranty claim.
Best way is to talk to your service advisor upfront. Tell him what you want to do and see what their position is on the mod. Most will work with you if they know in advance and especially if you pay them to install it.
My dealer knows everything that has been done to my car and we both have a clear understanding of where the line is so to speak.
If I cross it on my accord then I am responsible. No surprises that way.
My dealer knows everything that has been done to my car and we both have a clear understanding of where the line is so to speak.
If I cross it on my accord then I am responsible. No surprises that way.
#26
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It's all about perfect clutch/gas control..believe me my "13gt is the perfect example and I've been driving stick shifts for 20+ years and this transmision is the most sensitive yet..I have another "thud" issue..When I'm cruising and I let foot off gas then give it gas again "initially" the thud is very noticeable, especialy if I hammer the gas, but if I push the gas 3 more times in rapid sequence to see if I could make it hapen again...and no thud...so what gives? I heard it's the crap 2 piece drive shaft and is normal, and the only way to stop the thud effect is to get a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft...which is not cheap by the way..Any thoughts??
Welcome to the forum! My name is Deysha with Ford Service, and I recommend you bring your vehicle in to your Ford dealer and have them check it out. Your Service Manager is in the best position to assist with this. Let me know the outcome.
As the guys mentioned, aftermarket parts will not automatically void your warranties. However, if they cause a concern, that specific repair will not be covered. You can refer to your Warranty Guide on page 13 for further info. This is why I also recommend speaking with your servicing dealer before installing any aftermarket parts to your vehicle.
Deysha
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You may be in luck, as the shifter part number has superceded and production from 12/07/12 onward incorporates the new shifter number. The original part number was used from 03/22/10 through 12/06/12. I don't know what has changed and it could be as simple as a change of the bushing to a higher durometer material. Since my Mustang was built on 12/03/12, I missed the upgrade by 4 days.
Last edited by JJZ109; 2/12/13 at 07:02 AM. Reason: Date corrections
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You may be in luck, as the shifter part number has superceded and production from 12/07/12 onward incorporates the new shifter number. The original part number was used from 03/22/10 through 12/06/12. I don't know what has changed and it could be as simple as a change of the bushing to a higher durometer material. Since my Mustang was built on 12/03/12, I missed the upgrade by 4 days.
#29
V6 Member
You may be in luck, as the shifter part number has superceded and production from 12/07/12 onward incorporates the new shifter number. The original part number was used from 03/22/10 through 12/06/12. I don't know what has changed and it could be as simple as a change of the bushing to a higher durometer material. Since my Mustang was built on 12/03/12, I missed the upgrade by 4 days.
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Glad to see the pointers here. I'm having less of the 1-2 shift thud, I'm just having a hell of time getting going smoothly in first. It's not bad, but I either give it a little too much gas and/or let out the clutch a little too fast. When I slow it down, and slip a bit more it's much smoother. But hey, comes with owning your first manual transmission car as your daily driver (learned on a Nissan Sentra..and boy are they different).
#31
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This thing has so much torque that I start out in 2nd most of the time and feather the throttle a bit to get going. By a bit I mean not much at all since it just goes. I only use first when I'm on a steep incline starting from a dead stop or someone is trying me from a stoplight in Mexico. <~~~This doesn't happen too often.
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I've driving manual Mustangs since 1983, and the owners manuals all say the same thing, Do not downshift to first with the car moving. First gear does not have synchros to help you match revs like the other gears. Over time, you will damage the transmission. In most cases, if your coming to a stop, there really is no need to downshift at all. If in traffic, I would stay in second unless I came to a complete stop.
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#36
Glad to see the pointers here. I'm having less of the 1-2 shift thud, I'm just having a hell of time getting going smoothly in first. It's not bad, but I either give it a little too much gas and/or let out the clutch a little too fast. When I slow it down, and slip a bit more it's much smoother. But hey, comes with owning your first manual transmission car as your daily driver (learned on a Nissan Sentra..and boy are they different).
Last edited by wheelman; 2/15/13 at 07:10 AM.
#37
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I've driving manual Mustangs since 1983, and the owners manuals all say the same thing, Do not downshift to first with the car moving. First gear does not have synchros to help you match revs like the other gears. Over time, you will damage the transmission. In most cases, if your coming to a stop, there really is no need to downshift at all. If in traffic, I would stay in second unless I came to a complete stop.
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5/11/23 07:31 PM