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Old 2/10/13, 02:35 PM
  #21  
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1. Change the trans fluid to a quality synthetic. I used Redline MTL, it really smoothes out the 1-2 shift.
2. Replace the rear POS bushing in the shifter. I used the Energy Suspension urethane bushing. Under $20 and it fixed the missed 2-3 upshift under high revs. Any of the other brackets will work, but none are as cheap and no NVH.
3. Don't force the shifter. It likes a gentle touch.

My 2 cents...
Old 2/10/13, 07:32 PM
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Can someone please tell me if changing the shifter and bracket will cause any problems with the warranty. Thanks.
Old 2/10/13, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RogueWing16
Can someone please tell me if changing the shifter and bracket will cause any problems with the warranty. Thanks.
As with ALL aftermarket modifications, it can only cause a problem with the warranty if Ford can prove the part you installed caused the issue you need to have fixed. So...if you install aftermarket suspension parts that cause your ball joints to fail, Ford will deny your warranty claim. If you install a new shifter/bracket, and your engine throws a rod, they aren't going to deny your warranty claim.
Old 2/11/13, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by RogueWing16
Can someone please tell me if changing the shifter and bracket will cause any problems with the warranty. Thanks.
Best way is to talk to your service advisor upfront. Tell him what you want to do and see what their position is on the mod. Most will work with you if they know in advance and especially if you pay them to install it.

My dealer knows everything that has been done to my car and we both have a clear understanding of where the line is so to speak.

If I cross it on my accord then I am responsible. No surprises that way.
Old 2/11/13, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by kylerohde
As with ALL aftermarket modifications, it can only cause a problem with the warranty if Ford can prove the part you installed caused the issue you need to have fixed. So...if you install aftermarket suspension parts that cause your ball joints to fail, Ford will deny your warranty claim. If you install a new shifter/bracket, and your engine throws a rod, they aren't going to deny your warranty claim.
Originally Posted by MJJ
Best way is to talk to your service advisor upfront. Tell him what you want to do and see what their position is on the mod. Most will work with you if they know in advance and especially if you pay them to install it.

My dealer knows everything that has been done to my car and we both have a clear understanding of where the line is so to speak.

If I cross it on my accord then I am responsible. No surprises that way.
Thanks. Hoping the stock shifter on my new car is fine. The shifter on the Mustang I test drove felt ok, but it was a quick drive.
Old 2/11/13, 12:24 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by hsharott
It's all about perfect clutch/gas control..believe me my "13gt is the perfect example and I've been driving stick shifts for 20+ years and this transmision is the most sensitive yet..I have another "thud" issue..When I'm cruising and I let foot off gas then give it gas again "initially" the thud is very noticeable, especialy if I hammer the gas, but if I push the gas 3 more times in rapid sequence to see if I could make it hapen again...and no thud...so what gives? I heard it's the crap 2 piece drive shaft and is normal, and the only way to stop the thud effect is to get a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft...which is not cheap by the way..Any thoughts??
Hello hsharott,

Welcome to the forum! My name is Deysha with Ford Service, and I recommend you bring your vehicle in to your Ford dealer and have them check it out. Your Service Manager is in the best position to assist with this. Let me know the outcome.

Originally Posted by RogueWing16
Can someone please tell me if changing the shifter and bracket will cause any problems with the warranty. Thanks.
Originally Posted by kylerohde
As with ALL aftermarket modifications, it can only cause a problem with the warranty if Ford can prove the part you installed caused the issue you need to have fixed.
Originally Posted by MJJ
Best way is to talk to your service advisor upfront. Tell him what you want to do and see what their position is on the mod. Most will work with you if they know in advance and especially if you pay them to install it.
Hi RougeWing16,

As the guys mentioned, aftermarket parts will not automatically void your warranties. However, if they cause a concern, that specific repair will not be covered. You can refer to your Warranty Guide on page 13 for further info. This is why I also recommend speaking with your servicing dealer before installing any aftermarket parts to your vehicle.

Deysha
Old 2/12/13, 06:56 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RogueWing16
Thanks. Hoping the stock shifter on my new car is fine. The shifter on the Mustang I test drove felt ok, but it was a quick drive.
You may be in luck, as the shifter part number has superceded and production from 12/07/12 onward incorporates the new shifter number. The original part number was used from 03/22/10 through 12/06/12. I don't know what has changed and it could be as simple as a change of the bushing to a higher durometer material. Since my Mustang was built on 12/03/12, I missed the upgrade by 4 days.

Last edited by JJZ109; 2/12/13 at 07:02 AM. Reason: Date corrections
Old 2/12/13, 08:54 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JJZ109
You may be in luck, as the shifter part number has superceded and production from 12/07/12 onward incorporates the new shifter number. The original part number was used from 03/22/10 through 12/06/12. I don't know what has changed and it could be as simple as a change of the bushing to a higher durometer material. Since my Mustang was built on 12/03/12, I missed the upgrade by 4 days.
Hi and thanks for your input. Just wondering how you found this info, you must have an inside track. Any idea what they changed? I have a 2014 GT on order but no scheduled build date as yet. Thanks.
Old 2/12/13, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JJZ109
You may be in luck, as the shifter part number has superceded and production from 12/07/12 onward incorporates the new shifter number. The original part number was used from 03/22/10 through 12/06/12. I don't know what has changed and it could be as simple as a change of the bushing to a higher durometer material. Since my Mustang was built on 12/03/12, I missed the upgrade by 4 days.
Thanks for the info. The shifter on the 2013 that I test drove felt fine to me, but then again I haven't driven a manual in 11 years.
Old 2/14/13, 09:05 AM
  #30  
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Glad to see the pointers here. I'm having less of the 1-2 shift thud, I'm just having a hell of time getting going smoothly in first. It's not bad, but I either give it a little too much gas and/or let out the clutch a little too fast. When I slow it down, and slip a bit more it's much smoother. But hey, comes with owning your first manual transmission car as your daily driver (learned on a Nissan Sentra..and boy are they different).
Old 2/15/13, 05:51 AM
  #31  
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This thing has so much torque that I start out in 2nd most of the time and feather the throttle a bit to get going. By a bit I mean not much at all since it just goes. I only use first when I'm on a steep incline starting from a dead stop or someone is trying me from a stoplight in Mexico. <~~~This doesn't happen too often.
Old 2/15/13, 06:35 AM
  #32  
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I've driving manual Mustangs since 1983, and the owners manuals all say the same thing, Do not downshift to first with the car moving. First gear does not have synchros to help you match revs like the other gears. Over time, you will damage the transmission. In most cases, if your coming to a stop, there really is no need to downshift at all. If in traffic, I would stay in second unless I came to a complete stop.
Old 2/15/13, 06:54 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by elkk
Hi and thanks for your input. Just wondering how you found this info, you must have an inside track. Any idea what they changed? I have a 2014 GT on order but no scheduled build date as yet. Thanks.
You're welcome. I have a friend in the parts department and this type of information shows in parts lookup. You can even find it online when using www.fordparts.com although it will not provide full part numbers. As I said, I don't know what has changed.
Old 2/15/13, 06:57 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RogueWing16
Thanks for the info. The shifter on the 2013 that I test drove felt fine to me, but then again I haven't driven a manual in 11 years.
You're welcome and mine seems OK too, but I have only put 9.9 miles on it so far.

Last edited by JJZ109; 2/15/13 at 07:15 AM.
Old 2/15/13, 07:02 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Juice
...Do not downshift to first with the car moving... If in traffic, I would stay in second unless I came to a complete stop.
What he said!

Last edited by JJZ109; 2/15/13 at 07:04 AM.
Old 2/15/13, 07:08 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by R4z3r
Glad to see the pointers here. I'm having less of the 1-2 shift thud, I'm just having a hell of time getting going smoothly in first. It's not bad, but I either give it a little too much gas and/or let out the clutch a little too fast. When I slow it down, and slip a bit more it's much smoother. But hey, comes with owning your first manual transmission car as your daily driver (learned on a Nissan Sentra..and boy are they different).
I still dont have it perfect after 9 months but I found shifting quickly (the actual throw, not gear to gear) and slipping the clutch a little more, as you mentioned, helps. Im always worried about the clutch, though, so I err on the side of slipping less and get a little buckage. Ill probably have it worked out right before I install a new one. That's from a stop, though. As others have said, use 2nd as much as you can, especially with gears.

Last edited by wheelman; 2/15/13 at 07:10 AM.
Old 2/18/13, 11:51 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Juice
I've driving manual Mustangs since 1983, and the owners manuals all say the same thing, Do not downshift to first with the car moving. First gear does not have synchros to help you match revs like the other gears. Over time, you will damage the transmission. In most cases, if your coming to a stop, there really is no need to downshift at all. If in traffic, I would stay in second unless I came to a complete stop.
I'm not doubting you at all, but the manual for my '06 says to not downshift into first when going more than 15MPH?
Old 2/19/13, 04:02 AM
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I dont downshift into 1st until Im stopped, otherwise 2nd is all I need.
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