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Its my first time doing brakes and shock/struts soon, i have some question regarding jack stand points. Ive searched abit but seems inconsistent with the replies ive seen. Red boxes below(view image to have a bigger view) are the points i would like to place my jack stands and ill be jacking the car up by the jack rails under the rocker panels.
Jack stand on spots like in front of lca and end of the middle frame rails safe? What about jack stand points next to jacking rails under rocker panels? On the side note will lifting the front end one side at a time and working on the car twist the front chassis with mustang heavy front engine design?
I have used these points except the ones under the a
frames with no problems. If you do much work on your car get yourself some Steeda Jack rails as it is a real time saver.
I am not happy putting a weirdly shaped jack stand on a flat frame bar. It seems... iffy. The 'mating' surface is uneven and would make me nervous I bump the car and... um.. things happen. I want a stable location. Also, many of these places are in the way with the stands and what I want/need to do.
Therefore the pinch welds are the answer here. Strong, good point of contact, and it settles into the jack stand, ain't going anywhere if you center it right, period. Yeah, yeah, paint/deform... I've been doin' this enough to learn that the paint issue is the same no matter what unless you use trickery/mats/pads, and deformation is possible no matter what. Also speed bumps happen, that's great for paint/deformation... Movin' on.
The pinch weld to the right of where you see the jack stand in that picture is the most proper, out of the way place to put the car on jack stands. That said, it does pose a bit of 'fitment' issues with the skinny pinch weld vs the jack stand. The pinch weld needs to be put in the 'groove' of the jackstand... aka, proper centering. True of any jackstand or jack placement, yes? Yes. THAT said, it's the place you're *supposed* to jack the car up, so they engineered it to hold the car there.
So I do what NASCAR does. I jack the car up on the pinch weld in the middle-more-to-the-front pinch weld and tilt it over. Small jack stands on that side on the pinch weld. Repeat on other side. Continue until car is whatever height I want, level, firm footing on all jack stands. I do have a spreader bar for the low profile jack, but it can't get under the car at first. I typically send it anyway, shove the jack under the middle, pick the car up on that side, jack stands, repeat other side, then spreader bar if I need. Otherwise, If I'm being nervous/worrisome 'bout it, I'll jack it up at the pinch weld fore/aft of pinch weld area for the jack point so there's enough room, throw the jack stand there, then repeat on the corners. But I dislike that method because the corner tilting on jackstands, rather the side to side method. Seems to work so far, haven't had any problems yet.
But even when I've lifted the car at any corner, typically the side I'm on also lifts up anyway. So much for corner tilt, eh? That's how strong the pinch weld is. Hence, NASCAR style for me if I'm putting up on four stands, it's faster/easier. And I have a jack that'll do it. Now, on a convertible, well... it's a convertible. You need bracing everywhere on those. On a coupe, the car is strong and really doesn't want to twist that much just from this action. But even then, with the doors closed, it should work just as well. And the NASCAR style would help to not deform the car as much as the corner tilt, seems to me. Just a theory.
Oh, and most people who use a lift? Pinch welds. Every time. I can't recall the last time I saw anyone use a lift and NOT use the pinch welds. So there's that.
I guess the rambling point I'm making is the four jack locations on the pinch welds are, so far, to me, the perfect locations for the jack stands in the first place. The stands are out of the way of just about everything that way. I did my engine out with that, my clutch with that, and nary an issue doing it that way. Only issue is getting the car up to use them there, and that's actually not that big a deal either.
Again, for what that's worth. Hope it helps in some way! Good luck and care beful!
I am not happy putting a weirdly shaped jack stand on a flat frame bar. It seems... iffy. The 'mating' surface is uneven and would make me nervous I bump the car and... um.. things happen. I want a stable location. Also, many of these places are in the way with the stands and what I want/need to do.
Therefore the pinch welds are the answer here. Strong, good point of contact, and it settles into the jack stand, ain't going anywhere if you center it right, period. Yeah, yeah, paint/deform... I've been doin' this enough to learn that the paint issue is the same no matter what unless you use trickery/mats/pads, and deformation is possible no matter what. Also speed bumps happen, that's great for paint/deformation... Movin' on.
The pinch weld to the right of where you see the jack stand in that picture is the most proper, out of the way place to put the car on jack stands. That said, it does pose a bit of 'fitment' issues with the skinny pinch weld vs the jack stand. The pinch weld needs to be put in the 'groove' of the jackstand... aka, proper centering. True of any jackstand or jack placement, yes? Yes. THAT said, it's the place you're *supposed* to jack the car up, so they engineered it to hold the car there.
So I do what NASCAR does. I jack the car up on the pinch weld in the middle-more-to-the-front pinch weld and tilt it over. Small jack stands on that side on the pinch weld. Repeat on other side. Continue until car is whatever height I want, level, firm footing on all jack stands. I do have a spreader bar for the low profile jack, but it can't get under the car at first. I typically send it anyway, shove the jack under the middle, pick the car up on that side, jack stands, repeat other side, then spreader bar if I need. Otherwise, If I'm being nervous/worrisome 'bout it, I'll jack it up at the pinch weld fore/aft of pinch weld area for the jack point so there's enough room, throw the jack stand there, then repeat on the corners. But I dislike that method because the corner tilting on jackstands, rather the side to side method. Seems to work so far, haven't had any problems yet.
But even when I've lifted the car at any corner, typically the side I'm on also lifts up anyway. So much for corner tilt, eh? That's how strong the pinch weld is. Hence, NASCAR style for me if I'm putting up on four stands, it's faster/easier. And I have a jack that'll do it. Now, on a convertible, well... it's a convertible. You need bracing everywhere on those. On a coupe, the car is strong and really doesn't want to twist that much just from this action. But even then, with the doors closed, it should work just as well. And the NASCAR style would help to not deform the car as much as the corner tilt, seems to me. Just a theory.
Oh, and most people who use a lift? Pinch welds. Every time. I can't recall the last time I saw anyone use a lift and NOT use the pinch welds. So there's that.
I guess the rambling point I'm making is the four jack locations on the pinch welds are, so far, to me, the perfect locations for the jack stands in the first place. The stands are out of the way of just about everything that way. I did my engine out with that, my clutch with that, and nary an issue doing it that way. Only issue is getting the car up to use them there, and that's actually not that big a deal either.
Again, for what that's worth. Hope it helps in some way! Good luck and care beful!
Yea i have the same thought about the surface shape of the jack stand. I dont really like "C" shaped jack stands that most stands use. Ive done oil change, coolant, axle back exhaust,pan hard bar all on ramps. I have only used scissor jacks that came with the car to change tires or rotate them. With the up coming brake pad and rotor replacement i dont feel confident with scissor jacks since i will be needing to torque and what not. My dilemma is when i use scissor jack i use it at the pinch well and it works very well but if i was going to use a floor jack and jack stand where do i place the floor jack if i want to place jack stand on the pinch well?
Jack placement on pinch weld: So you see that notch in the picture where the scissor jack is supposed to go? Behind that. Or in front, depending. Figure out the space from the notch and the base of your stand, and put the jack 'inboard' or towards the middle of the door on the pinch weld enough so the stand will go on that slot. You can put the jack stand beside the car, feel for the notch, and guesstimate it that way.
For me, again, I'm doing it NASCAR. I don't have any qualms about putting that jack on the pinch weld somewhere around the middleish of the door and jacking the entire side up at once, putting stands at the notches as needed. Two for one. I have a 3 ton floor jack, the car doesn't weigh 3 tons, and half that is taken up on the other side anyway. More than half, really. Temporarily, of course, as I'm putting all four corners up. If you have a 1.5 ton, well, no, don't use that. Get a 3 ton jack. Solve all the problems that way.
Been doin' it for a while now that way. No freaky things have happened yet. Well, not exactly true, I managed to have one corner of the rear have a stand one notch too low, so the car sorta rocked on me. That was my fault though. It was that way for a couple weeks, actually before I felt her shift and tilt to the right rear and I went all Of course, jacked right next to the stand, pulled it up that one notch to match the other side, and set it back down, no muss, no fuss, no damage... lucky? Maybe. Probably. I'll be cognizant of that from here on out.
Jack placement on pinch weld: So you see that notch in the picture where the scissor jack is supposed to go? Behind that. Or in front, depending. Figure out the space from the notch and the base of your stand, and put the jack 'inboard' or towards the middle of the door on the pinch weld enough so the stand will go on that slot. You can put the jack stand beside the car, feel for the notch, and guesstimate it that way.
For me, again, I'm doing it NASCAR. I don't have any qualms about putting that jack on the pinch weld somewhere around the middleish of the door and jacking the entire side up at once, putting stands at the notches as needed. Two for one. I have a 3 ton floor jack, the car doesn't weigh 3 tons, and half that is taken up on the other side anyway. More than half, really. Temporarily, of course, as I'm putting all four corners up. If you have a 1.5 ton, well, no, don't use that. Get a 3 ton jack. Solve all the problems that way.
Been doin' it for a while now that way. No freaky things have happened yet. Well, not exactly true, I managed to have one corner of the rear have a stand one notch too low, so the car sorta rocked on me. That was my fault though. It was that way for a couple weeks, actually before I felt her shift and tilt to the right rear and I went all Of course, jacked right next to the stand, pulled it up that one notch to match the other side, and set it back down, no muss, no fuss, no damage... lucky? Maybe. Probably. I'll be cognizant of that from here on out.
In that picture, you're looking at the rear jack point pinch weld notch in the rocker panel cover. And then there's that little drain opening in the pinch weld. Then behind it, nice strong pinch weld with which to also lift the car up. Same goes for the front. Pretty much all of the pinch weld can be safely used to pick the entire car up on that side, if you desire. Just balancing for the front/back. Or like I said, just behind the notch location for a corner if that's all you want.
To be honest, however, you can also lift the car by the axle on each side, as near the shock/swaybar mounts as possible. Or you can lift the entire rear by the axle pumpkin (ensure you're not touching the cover, that'd be not-good.) They say not to put stands or jacks in the middle of the tubes, but... I dunno. Seems the tubes are suspended at the end and all that, and then are installed into the pumpkin housing, so how unstrong is the entire thing? Hm? I just know they say that, so I kind of adhere to it.
Up front, you could do it by the K member, just about anywhere, but the locations shown in the above picture with the dark purple circles would be most advisable, if you're gonna do that. I personally wouldn't...
But I never bothered. She's a little bit of a masochist, so it's ok. She gets scraped up time to time because I... um... forget she's 1" lower, and stupid speed bumps. Grr. But she's definitely NOT a garage queen. Plenty of warts, but at 186K she's bound to have a few. Including the pinch weld.
In that picture, you're looking at the rear jack point pinch weld notch in the rocker panel cover. And then there's that little drain opening in the pinch weld. Then behind it, nice strong pinch weld with which to also lift the car up. Same goes for the front. Pretty much all of the pinch weld can be safely used to pick the entire car up on that side, if you desire. Just balancing for the front/back. Or like I said, just behind the notch location for a corner if that's all you want.
To be honest, however, you can also lift the car by the axle on each side, as near the shock/swaybar mounts as possible. Or you can lift the entire rear by the axle pumpkin (ensure you're not touching the cover, that'd be not-good.) They say not to put stands or jacks in the middle of the tubes, but... I dunno. Seems the tubes are suspended at the end and all that, and then are installed into the pumpkin housing, so how unstrong is the entire thing? Hm? I just know they say that, so I kind of adhere to it.
Up front, you could do it by the K member, just about anywhere, but the locations shown in the above picture with the dark purple circles would be most advisable, if you're gonna do that. I personally wouldn't...
But I never bothered. She's a little bit of a masochist, so it's ok. She gets scraped up time to time because I... um... forget she's 1" lower, and stupid speed bumps. Grr. But she's definitely NOT a garage queen. Plenty of warts, but at 186K she's bound to have a few. Including the pinch weld.
Saw this interesting 3 piece jack stand today. The top piece of the stand goes on the floor jack, once car is jacked up the stand legs are attached. This invention makes it easy to setup and utilize only pinch weld for both jacking and jack stand. My only concern is with the top piece 2.1 inches tall and depending on the height of the low profile floor jack, i wonder if it will fit under the stock height of a 2013 mustang gt clearance.
Where you have that jack stand is just the floor pan, I place the jack stands on the pinch welds, if you are worried about paint they make the Pucks to go between or place a rag on the jack stand. I jack on the front cross member with a 4X4 across the whole subframe. I also jack on the pumpkin but still use the pinch welds for the jack Stands. I place a block under on the jack, I don't like to jack straight on to the pumpkin.
A must have! I have a full set of those, but mine are not all painted up and with the pull tag. Love the magnetic mount and works great with my floor lift.
Bringing this thread back because I have *proof* in case anyone is wonderin' about this topic anymore.
I was jacking my car up on the right front. Just behind the jack point Ford says to use on the pinch weld with my jack, as I intended to put the jack on the jack point, per my usual operational methodology. I get the car up where I wanted it and placed the stand... and noticed the car's right rear was up in the air.
Cool.
Here's why the pinch weld is the best place to put a jack or jackstands. The entire car can be picked up on one side from *anywhere* on that pinch weld. Which I've done before, by the way, have a nifty spreader bar that'll jack the car on two pads on the pinch weld. Anyway, proof:
JACKED
No tricks, the car is on the one jackstand on the jack point of the pinch weld at the right front. The right front wheel is up in the air, and as you can see so is the right rear. The left rear is squatted down, the left front is also squished a little, but indeed, the entire right side of the car is on that one jack. One of the strongest parts of the car. Use it, it's more secure than any other location to place these things, as the stands sort of 'key' into the weld. Again, you can use pads if you're worried about finish. And if you do it right, the weld doesn't get hurt at all, no bending, no deforming. Just settles in the stand and there ya go.
I installed Jacking Rails so I can lift from the middle and have the whole side go up evenly so I can work on two wheels at once. I still use jack stands at appropriate points. And large rubber wheel chocks from Harbor Freight.
One thing for sure, come spring my first upgrade to the Boss will be Jacking Rails, that should make life so much easier,
make sure you get the long ones -- the Steeda jacking rails are short in the back; so if you want to only jack up the rear wheel, you can't do it -- the rail is so short that the jack lifts both wheels, if you place the jack under the extreme rear end of the rail
make sure you get the long ones -- the Steeda jacking rails are short in the back; so if you want to only jack up the rear wheel, you can't do it -- the rail is so short that the jack lifts both wheels, if you place the jack under the extreme rear end of the rail
I think BMR rails are longer in the rear
Thanks for the tip, although with the Boss 302's side exhaust, I may have to stick with the Steeda's shorter rail.
Not sure it would bother me that much if it raised the whole side at once. Also with the side exhaust of the Boss, I'm not sure that longer ribs would fit.
9/15/20, 08:34 AM
That's how strong the pinch weld is. Hence, NASCAR style for me if I'm putting up on four stands, it's faster/easier. And I have a jack that'll do it. Now, on a convertible, well... it's a convertible. You need bracing everywhere on those. On a coupe, the car is strong and really doesn't want to twist that much just from this action. But even then, with the doors closed, it should work just as well. And the NASCAR style would help to not deform the car as much as the corner tilt, seems to me. 
Just a theory.
It was that way for a couple weeks, actually before I felt her shift and tilt to the right rear and I went all 
Of course, jacked right next to the stand, pulled it up that one notch to match the other side, and set it back down, no muss, no fuss, no damage... lucky? Maybe. Probably. I'll be cognizant of that from here on out.
She gets scraped up time to time because I... um... forget she's 1" lower, and stupid speed bumps. Grr. But she's definitely NOT a garage queen. Plenty of warts, but at 186K she's bound to have a few. Including the pinch weld.
