Rear quarter panel repaint
#1
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Rear quarter panel repaint
Well i was bored at work and i wanted to see if anyone would have a clue on what it would cost to repaint the rear quarter panel (driver side). Black...since its not a special color.
Doesn't need body work or anything but the paint has started to chip away above the wheel, due to im guessing salt, ice and a lovely michigan winter.
Doesn't need body work or anything but the paint has started to chip away above the wheel, due to im guessing salt, ice and a lovely michigan winter.
#2
Cobra Member
bothsides of mine along the wheel well is chipped as well doesn't call for a repaint, but they are fairly large chunks.
I'm sure if you got a quote from a body shop, they would somehow convince you that it does need body work prior to painting lol.
I'm sure if you got a quote from a body shop, they would somehow convince you that it does need body work prior to painting lol.
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Well i was bored at work and i wanted to see if anyone would have a clue on what it would cost to repaint the rear quarter panel (driver side). Black...since its not a special color.
Doesn't need body work or anything but the paint has started to chip away above the wheel, due to im guessing salt, ice and a lovely michigan winter.
Doesn't need body work or anything but the paint has started to chip away above the wheel, due to im guessing salt, ice and a lovely michigan winter.
#4
I had my 2006 both sides of the car repainted from key scratches cost me $2200.
Had OEM scopes hood and side installed and painted as well as hood and front bumper and fender. Cost was $1200.00.
Paint is expensive good painters are hard to find and really expensive.
Had OEM scopes hood and side installed and painted as well as hood and front bumper and fender. Cost was $1200.00.
Paint is expensive good painters are hard to find and really expensive.
#5
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Perhaps the entire quarter doesn't need to be painted. A good shop can sand and/or fill (with glaze) the chips, shoot some black base, then clear over the area and apply Du Pont "blender" over the edges of clear to "melt" it into the original finish.
I did the same procedure to my F-250 behind my front wheels. Still looks MINT and undiscernable after 2 years. Cost of materials less than $50. I bought the HVLP guns at Walmart it is a Campbell Hausfeld set with a touch up gun and big 20 cup gun. My friend (a professional) and my "body shop teacher" was impressed how well it painted. Cost for the kit, $65. If you have a compressor, something to consider.
I did the same procedure to my F-250 behind my front wheels. Still looks MINT and undiscernable after 2 years. Cost of materials less than $50. I bought the HVLP guns at Walmart it is a Campbell Hausfeld set with a touch up gun and big 20 cup gun. My friend (a professional) and my "body shop teacher" was impressed how well it painted. Cost for the kit, $65. If you have a compressor, something to consider.
#6
Cobra R Member
Thread Starter
Perhaps the entire quarter doesn't need to be painted. A good shop can sand and/or fill (with glaze) the chips, shoot some black base, then clear over the area and apply Du Pont "blender" over the edges of clear to "melt" it into the original finish.
I did the same procedure to my F-250 behind my front wheels. Still looks MINT and undiscernable after 2 years. Cost of materials less than $50. I bought the HVLP guns at Walmart it is a Campbell Hausfeld set with a touch up gun and big 20 cup gun. My friend (a professional) and my "body shop teacher" was impressed how well it painted. Cost for the kit, $65. If you have a compressor, something to consider.
I did the same procedure to my F-250 behind my front wheels. Still looks MINT and undiscernable after 2 years. Cost of materials less than $50. I bought the HVLP guns at Walmart it is a Campbell Hausfeld set with a touch up gun and big 20 cup gun. My friend (a professional) and my "body shop teacher" was impressed how well it painted. Cost for the kit, $65. If you have a compressor, something to consider.
i will have to post pics of what the damage looks like. Its not really "chips" but a good portion of the paint by the edge of the fender has just cleanly been removed from the panel.
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got any tutorials or links that can give me a better idea of this process? i have a nice compressor and a gravity fed automotive paint gun.
i will have to post pics of what the damage looks like. Its not really "chips" but a good portion of the paint by the edge of the fender has just cleanly been removed from the panel.
i will have to post pics of what the damage looks like. Its not really "chips" but a good portion of the paint by the edge of the fender has just cleanly been removed from the panel.
Ok, in that case, you need to sand the area down to clean steel, Feather sand your old paint up to the stripped area. Apply a self etching primer to "bite" into the steel to protect it (aerosal can) then build up a layer of filler primer (light build Nason 1K) over the stripped area blending slightly over the original paint. Wet sand (600 grit) your area until you are SURE you see no transition from new primer to original paint. Apply your base coat then clear, then blender on the edges of the new clear to old.
Invest in a small touch up gun, like with an 6 to 8oz cup, it's perfect for these little jobs. Also, mask only on an edge to prevent a line like your trunk lid, rear of your door, quarter window. With the small gun you will throw very little overspray. If you do a little compound will take the haze off. Invest the money in tools (gun) and practice on an old fender or piece of metal to get the hang of the gun. I use a regulated 45 psi at the gun for my small gun. If you have any questions, PM me.
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