Rear end (possibly rear sway bar?) squeak?
4/21/14, 08:05 AM
#42
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
Ok update... went for a few drives since the last tightening and greasing. I think I "still" hear the squeak but very very faint. It's hard to hear when I have a full catback and maggie lol. I almost have to be cruising and off the gas and hope for a bumpy road.
My next thing to try is probably loosen and retighten the panhard bar. 129 ft lbs to retighten right? all under load for loosening and tightening right? I usually jack the car up on the 2" boards, and that's enough for me to get under.
My last thoughts are that, I know, some squeaks are inevitable. The tighter I make my car, the more prone it is that it will squeak. But I tell you what, my cornering stabiliy now has increased significantly, esp with those Konis. It's just so flat. I can't imagine once I get my full coilover set. It will be stiffer still, but will probably be on rails.
My next thing to try is probably loosen and retighten the panhard bar. 129 ft lbs to retighten right? all under load for loosening and tightening right? I usually jack the car up on the 2" boards, and that's enough for me to get under.
My last thoughts are that, I know, some squeaks are inevitable. The tighter I make my car, the more prone it is that it will squeak. But I tell you what, my cornering stabiliy now has increased significantly, esp with those Konis. It's just so flat. I can't imagine once I get my full coilover set. It will be stiffer still, but will probably be on rails.
4/21/14, 09:35 AM
#43
Legacy TMS Member
Ok update... went for a few drives since the last tightening and greasing. I think I "still" hear the squeak but very very faint. It's hard to hear when I have a full catback and maggie lol. I almost have to be cruising and off the gas and hope for a bumpy road. My next thing to try is probably loosen and retighten the panhard bar. 129 ft lbs to retighten right? all under load for loosening and tightening right? I usually jack the car up on the 2" boards, and that's enough for me to get under. My last thoughts are that, I know, some squeaks are inevitable. The tighter I make my car, the more prone it is that it will squeak. But I tell you what, my cornering stabiliy now has increased significantly, esp with those Konis. It's just so flat. I can't imagine once I get my full coilover set. It will be stiffer still, but will probably be on rails.
4/21/14, 11:03 AM
#45
Legacy TMS Member
Ours are pretty bad too. Not Midwest bad, but close. I've driven through parts of Iowa and most of the rest of the Midwest, and yeah they do suck haha.
4/21/14, 11:36 AM
#46
Legacy TMS Member
Good thread.
The cold temp squeaking in my car developed into rattling and clunking. Had it replaced under waranty. But like you, I keep thinking that I am hearing it.
I am following with great interest.
The cold temp squeaking in my car developed into rattling and clunking. Had it replaced under waranty. But like you, I keep thinking that I am hearing it.
I am following with great interest.
4/21/14, 12:57 PM
#47
Shelby GT500 Member
Has anyone tried wrapping some Teflon tape around the away bar where the urethane bushing wraps around it?no squeak and you don't have to keep re greasing.
4/21/14, 01:37 PM
#48
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
good thought, but with the bushing sliding over the sway very tightly, I think it would be to too tight and thus push the tape off instead of going over it?
4/21/14, 03:21 PM
#49
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
I just had another thought, and almost like a light bulb.
Could it be from the Koni Shock lower bushings? I never greased them. Was I supposed to??? All the install vids and discussion I came across didn't say to grease them. I'm talking about the lower bolt that goes through the 2 through holes (chassis and shock), then gets tightened to 129 ft lbs. That's a rubber bushing there too right? hmmmmmmmmmm
thoughts?
Could it be from the Koni Shock lower bushings? I never greased them. Was I supposed to??? All the install vids and discussion I came across didn't say to grease them. I'm talking about the lower bolt that goes through the 2 through holes (chassis and shock), then gets tightened to 129 ft lbs. That's a rubber bushing there too right? hmmmmmmmmmm
thoughts?
4/21/14, 03:25 PM
#50
Legacy TMS Member
I just had another thought, and almost like a light bulb.
Could it be from the Koni Shock lower bushings? I never greased them. Was I supposed to??? All the install vids and discussion I came across didn't say to grease them. I'm talking about the lower bolt that goes through the 2 through holes (chassis and shock), then gets tightened to 129 ft lbs. That's a rubber bushing there too right? hmmmmmmmmmm
thoughts?
Could it be from the Koni Shock lower bushings? I never greased them. Was I supposed to??? All the install vids and discussion I came across didn't say to grease them. I'm talking about the lower bolt that goes through the 2 through holes (chassis and shock), then gets tightened to 129 ft lbs. That's a rubber bushing there too right? hmmmmmmmmmm
thoughts?
4/21/14, 03:34 PM
#51
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
What I'm deducing is, I've had the same suspension for 2 years, and it's been perfect. So what did I "change"?
a) installed Koni's
b) unbolted then re-bolted the upper sway bar end links
that's it.
Then squeak happened.
Chances of panhard bar or anything else moving or squeaking has to be pretty slim right? I mean, those are the only 2 things I "touched".
4/21/14, 05:11 PM
#52
Mach 1 Member
Is your panhard bar stock or did you upgrade it to an adjustable one?
4/21/14, 05:47 PM
#53
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
4/21/14, 10:58 PM
#54
Bullitt Member
When you say: "I usually jack the car up on the 2" boards, and that's enough for me to get under."
I'm not sure what that means?
When you work on the sway bar, you need to make sure the suspension is loaded. What you need to do, either place the car's axle on axle stands, or put the rear of your car on wheel ramps, so you can work under the car. So when you tighten the end links, they are basically in the neutral position the car would be in, when you drive it. (and don't forget to put a wheel chock in front of the front wheel!)
If this is what you said... I'm sorry for misunderstanding (English is not my mother tongue... at work it's not so much of a problem. I work in Silicon Valley, and most of the talk is Geek, which I do understand :-) )
I'm not sure what that means?
When you work on the sway bar, you need to make sure the suspension is loaded. What you need to do, either place the car's axle on axle stands, or put the rear of your car on wheel ramps, so you can work under the car. So when you tighten the end links, they are basically in the neutral position the car would be in, when you drive it. (and don't forget to put a wheel chock in front of the front wheel!)
If this is what you said... I'm sorry for misunderstanding (English is not my mother tongue... at work it's not so much of a problem. I work in Silicon Valley, and most of the talk is Geek, which I do understand :-) )
Last edited by Plim; 4/21/14 at 10:59 PM.
4/22/14, 12:52 AM
#55
Legacy TMS Member
When you say: "I usually jack the car up on the 2" boards, and that's enough for me to get under." I'm not sure what that means? When you work on the sway bar, you need to make sure the suspension is loaded. What you need to do, either place the car's axle on axle stands, or put the rear of your car on wheel ramps, so you can work under the car. So when you tighten the end links, they are basically in the neutral position the car would be in, when you drive it. (and don't forget to put a wheel chock in front of the front wheel!) If this is what you said... I'm sorry for misunderstanding (English is not my mother tongue... at work it's not so much of a problem. I work in Silicon Valley, and most of the talk is Geek, which I do understand :-) )
4/22/14, 03:39 AM
#56
A Man Just Needs Some....
Pull the sway bar end links off. Push the sway bar ends up so they don't hit anything and go drive it. If it still squeaks, it's not your sway bar. Easy enough to cancel out. These cars all like to squeak. The more aftermarket bushings you use, the more squeaks you may get. Also certain types of grease will deteriorate your bushings so be careful. Graphite lubricant may be your best bet. Dirt can build up around the seating surface of your coil springs and also cause squeaks. My rear suspension squeaks like an old hoopty on really rough roads but I've accepted it for now. Lol. It really could be anything though. Control arm bushing could also cause it. Be careful what you take off and reinstall because you can affect your alignment. Good luck.
4/22/14, 09:13 AM
#57
Legacy TMS Member
Pull the sway bar end links off. Push the sway bar ends up so they don't hit anything and go drive it. If it still squeaks, it's not your sway bar. Easy enough to cancel out. These cars all like to squeak. The more aftermarket bushings you use, the more squeaks you may get. Also certain types of grease will deteriorate your bushings so be careful. Graphite lubricant may be your best bet. Dirt can build up around the seating surface of your coil springs and also cause squeaks. My rear suspension squeaks like an old hoopty on really rough roads but I've accepted it for now. Lol. It really could be anything though. Control arm bushing could also cause it. Be careful what you take off and reinstall because you can affect your alignment. Good luck.
And mine is on MM coilovers (IRS swapped too) with poly bushings out back/delrin up front, solid steering rack, offset steering rack bushings, etc. It has more noise from the plastic interior than suspension noise...not to mention is has about 105k on it, probably 70k on coilovers.
4/22/14, 01:24 PM
#58
I Have No Life
Thread Starter
When you say: "I usually jack the car up on the 2" boards, and that's enough for me to get under."
I'm not sure what that means?
When you work on the sway bar, you need to make sure the suspension is loaded. What you need to do, either place the car's axle on axle stands, or put the rear of your car on wheel ramps, so you can work under the car. So when you tighten the end links, they are basically in the neutral position the car would be in, when you drive it. (and don't forget to put a wheel chock in front of the front wheel!)
If this is what you said... I'm sorry for misunderstanding (English is not my mother tongue... at work it's not so much of a problem. I work in Silicon Valley, and most of the talk is Geek, which I do understand :-) )
I'm not sure what that means?
When you work on the sway bar, you need to make sure the suspension is loaded. What you need to do, either place the car's axle on axle stands, or put the rear of your car on wheel ramps, so you can work under the car. So when you tighten the end links, they are basically in the neutral position the car would be in, when you drive it. (and don't forget to put a wheel chock in front of the front wheel!)
If this is what you said... I'm sorry for misunderstanding (English is not my mother tongue... at work it's not so much of a problem. I work in Silicon Valley, and most of the talk is Geek, which I do understand :-) )
So given that, when I removed and reinstalled the sway bar after cleaning and greasing everything, yes, I did all that when the suspension was loaded, but I think I still hear the squeak, though faint.
Pull the sway bar end links off. Push the sway bar ends up so they don't hit anything and go drive it. If it still squeaks, it's not your sway bar. Easy enough to cancel out. These cars all like to squeak. The more aftermarket bushings you use, the more squeaks you may get. Also certain types of grease will deteriorate your bushings so be careful. Graphite lubricant may be your best bet. Dirt can build up around the seating surface of your coil springs and also cause squeaks. My rear suspension squeaks like an old hoopty on really rough roads but I've accepted it for now. Lol. It really could be anything though. Control arm bushing could also cause it. Be careful what you take off and reinstall because you can affect your alignment. Good luck.
4/22/14, 01:46 PM
#59
A Man Just Needs Some....
Hi Pascal... when I say jack the car up on 2" boards, I really mean jack the car up, then slide 2" boards under the rear tires, then set the car back down on those boards. It fully loads the suspension, but gives me access underneath. I'm tiny, so I can squeeze in there. It's almost like a pseudo ramp, if you will...poor man's version So given that, when I removed and reinstalled the sway bar after cleaning and greasing everything, yes, I did all that when the suspension was loaded, but I think I still hear the squeak, though faint. Yeah that's an option. I should have done that, but at least now I think the squeak is still there lol. So hard to hear, it's faint. Almost like I shouldn't bother. My exhaust and blower will drown it anyways, so it's more so annoying since I'm OCD... lol. Do you guys think it's worth removing the shock lower bolt and greasing the shock bushing?
So given that, when I removed and reinstalled the sway bar after cleaning and greasing everything, yes, I did all that when the suspension was loaded, but I think I still hear the squeak, though faint. Yeah that's an option. I should have done that, but at least now I think the squeak is still there lol. So hard to hear, it's faint. Almost like I shouldn't bother. My exhaust and blower will drown it anyways, so it's more so annoying since I'm OCD... lol. Do you guys think it's worth removing the shock lower bolt and greasing the shock bushing?
4/23/14, 01:09 AM
#60
Bullitt Member
When chasing squeaks in my undercarriage I use a spray can of silicone lubricant. It really gets into tight places fast but doesn't last very long. Just spray different parts one at a time, then shake or drive the car until you locate the squeaky component.