question about lowering springs
question about lowering springs
Can someone kinda give me the run down on what these do for your car? Is it all about looks or does it really improve handling\responsivness as well?
Unfortunately lowering a Mustang (or any vehicle) alters the suspension geometry and all things being equal (if spring rate isn't changed) will increase body roll. While never billed as such its part of the reason for increased spring rate and higher rate sway bars as well.
The primary benefit other than appearance is a lower center of gravity though.
Unfortunately lowering a Mustang (or any vehicle) alters the suspension geometry and all things being equal (if spring rate isn't changed) will increase body roll. While never billed as such its part of the reason for increased spring rate and higher rate sway bars as well.
The primary benefit other than appearance is a lower center of gravity though.
The primary benefit other than appearance is a lower center of gravity though.
I wrote up a review of my shocks/struts/springs/mounts over in the "suspension" forum if you want some more detailed thoughts
hey thanks buddy!
Handling is significantly improved with stiffer springs and shock/strut upgrade. With stiffer lowering springs (nearly all are stiffer than OEM), roll is reduced.
I wrote up a review of my shocks/struts/springs/mounts over in the "suspension" forum if you want some more detailed thoughts
I wrote up a review of my shocks/struts/springs/mounts over in the "suspension" forum if you want some more detailed thoughts
Handling is significantly improved with stiffer springs and shock/strut upgrade. With stiffer lowering springs (nearly all are stiffer than OEM), roll is reduced.
I wrote up a review of my shocks/struts/springs/mounts over in the "suspension" forum if you want some more detailed thoughts
I wrote up a review of my shocks/struts/springs/mounts over in the "suspension" forum if you want some more detailed thoughts
If say Ford had designed the ride height of the car to be adjustable without altering geometry then not as much rate would be required for increased performance.
That's why I said all things being equal, if spring and roll bar rates aren't changed compared to the original rates the vehicle will experience increased roll. IIRC this is due to the way leverage is applied by the suspension on the springs. As the vehicle is dropped the geometry is altered increasing the leverage and requiring increased rate to compensate.
If say Ford had designed the ride height of the car to be adjustable without altering geometry then not as much rate would be required for increased performance.
If say Ford had designed the ride height of the car to be adjustable without altering geometry then not as much rate would be required for increased performance.
Primarily looks, with improved handling and ride quality (subjective - depends if you think firmer is "better"...I do)
As for the installation, with my latest round of updates, I will never pay a shop to install springs ever again. We did the whole thing in my garage (front and rear) in under 2 hours with the ride tools. It was so easy, it was embarrassing. I used to pay a shop 400 bucks or more for the installation, not including alignment. It was crazy.
As for the installation, with my latest round of updates, I will never pay a shop to install springs ever again. We did the whole thing in my garage (front and rear) in under 2 hours with the ride tools. It was so easy, it was embarrassing. I used to pay a shop 400 bucks or more for the installation, not including alignment. It was crazy.
Monster mudder before, sports car after, just that simple!John
Agree with an earlier post. I used to pay for it on other cars. Never again. Not paying someone $500 to install springs struts etc. join a local mustang club. I am sure there would be guys in the club that have the tools and can show u how to do it. Don't waste your money. Do it yourself, the satisfaction is worth the sweat.
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