Yeah that's what I hear too. All oil is pretty much passenger side. I guess I could sell the jlt. Another option I had was to use the pcv connectors from it for my bobs so I still have the stock hose setup for future.

 

Bob is actually Steve's father.

 

Guys, can someone confirm that the oil separator is a GT thing or is this something V6 owners should look into? I briefly looked under my hood and to be honest, i didn't see where one would be setup on the v6

 

Burton, I'll be more than happy to take that JLT off your hands when you're ready to dispose of it

 

I ran a (passenger side) JLT on my stock 2012 V6 engine for almost 2 years. It collected oil/crankcase vapors and I didn’t have any problems with it. Since none of the separator manufactures can claim 100% efficiency, select the one you like best. Form vs. function. In other words, when you open the hood, what separator do you want to see? Some claim to work better than others. Anyhow, this is the exact JLT I used on my V6:

http://jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=343_345&pro ducts_id=401

 

Holy crap! You will not believe this… I literally and seriously only drove my car about 15 miles, and I removed the JLT and There was already about a half teaspoon of oil in there. Are you kidding me? I was letting that much oil in my intake for the last 1000 miles? WTF.

If the jlt caught this much oil already, I can't even imagine how good the bobs will be.

 

I ordered a Bob's. It's shipped today. I've been running my car without oil catch can for 11K. How bad. Would that be? Something I should clean now?

 

You should check out my UPR catch can thread. I'll never buy a UPR product after they sent me a used catch can and when I wanted a full refund they tried to argue about refunding the restocking fee. Horrible customer service. I'm sure other people have had good experiences with them but not me haha.

 

I hope that you all can ignore my ignorance here. I understand the purpose of what the oil catcher does. what I don't get is that if this is an important component on this vehicle, why hasn't it been setup as a factory standard rather than it being installed after the fact?

is not having one going to seriously affect how the car works and performs without it?

I guess i'll need to research this more and I welcome any feedback and input anyone cares to contribute further. I would definitely order one if it means my car will run healthier.

 

Pascal, from what I understand, it's "recommended" for NA engines, "imperative" for FI engines. Judging from the crud that I pulled off of my 15 mile drive today, I'm shocked. I really didn't know that much oil gets through to the intake .

I'm glad I got a bobs. It arrives Tuesday I think.

I heard about that too! That's terrible. Got a link to your thread? Yeah they make good billet stuff, but functionally, I don't know if they cut the cake.

I believe the reasons are cost. I for one, am now a believer after I saw what the JLT caught, and that brand isn't even supposed to be top of the line. I won't run without it.

 

Burton, I was typing on my phone, and I see that I left out part of my question....

What I meant to ask is: should I clean the throttle body, after having run my car without an oil catch can for 11K miles?
Has anyone looked at how much gunk has been built up in there?
I recall in one of my previous cars, when I took it to a tuner, the first thing they did was to clean the throttle body before they started. But as I havent done this myself before, I'm not sure if I need to get myself into that?

 

never mind.... I think the connection is made behind the throttle body butterfly valve.

 

I think the driver side is before the throttle body, I could be wrong. Then again, hardly any oil gets through driver side... Hmmmmm. So my guess to your answer is no, it wouldn't be necessary. Someone else chime in?

 

Before someone else gets the idea of cleaning the throttle body... please read below, which I copied from a Mustang shop manual... Especially the last but one bullet point (#7), right at the bottom. I will leave it alone for now, until I have a more thorough understanding.


Throttle Body System Overview
Note: This overview is for applications without electronic throttle control (ETC). For ETC applications, refer to Torque-Based Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) in this section.
Note: The traditional idle air adjust procedure and the throttle return screw are no longer used on vehicles with on board diagnostics (OBD).
The throttle body system meters air to the engine during idle, part throttle, and wide open throttle (WOT) conditions. The throttle body system consists of an idle air control (IAC) valve assembly, an idle air orifice, single or dual bores with butterfly valve throttle plates, and a throttle position (TP) sensor. One other source of idle air flow is the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. The combined idle air flow (from idle air orifice IAC flow and PCV flow) is measured by the MAF sensor on all applications.
During idle, the throttle body assembly provides a set amount of air flow to the engine through the idle air passage and the PCV valve. The IAC valve assembly provides additional air when commanded by the powertrain control module (PCM) to maintain the correct engine idle speed under varying conditions. The IAC valve assembly mounts directly to the intake manifold assembly in most applications. Idle speed is controlled by the PCM and cannot be adjusted.

Throttle rotation is controlled by a cam/cable linkage to slow the initial opening rate of the throttle plate. The TP sensor monitors the throttle position and provides a signal to the PCM. Some throttle body applications provide an air supply channel upstream of the throttle plate to provide fresh air to the PCV or IAC systems. Other throttle body applications provide individual vacuum taps downstream of the throttle plate for PCV return, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), evaporative emission (EVAP), and miscellaneous control signals.
Throttle Body System Hardware
The major components of the throttle body assembly include the TP sensor, the IAC valve assembly, and the throttle body housing assembly. For additional information on the intake air system components, refer to Engine Control Components in this section.
Throttle Body Housing
The throttle body housing assembly is a single piece aluminum or plastic casting with an air passage and a butterfly throttle plate with linkage mechanisms. When the throttle plate is in the idle (or closed) position, the throttle lever arm should be in contact with the throttle return stop. The throttle return stop prevents the throttle plate from contacting the bore and sticking closed. The setting also establishes the amount of air flow between the throttle plate and bore. To minimize the closed plate air flow, a special coating is applied to the throttle plate and bore to help seal this area. This sealant/coating also makes the throttle body resistant to engine intake sludge accumulation.
Features of the Throttle Body Assembly include:
1. IAC valve assembly mounted directly to the throttle body assembly (some vehicles).
2. A preset stop to locate the WOT position.
3. An air supply channel upstream of the throttle plate to provide fresh air to the PCV system (some vehicles only).
4. Individual vacuum taps for PCV, EGR, EVAP and miscellaneous control signals (some vehicles only).
5. PCV air return (if applicable).
6. A throttle body-mounted TP sensor.
7. A sealant/coating on the throttle bore and throttle plate makes the throttle body air flow tolerant to engine intake sludge accumulation. These throttle body assemblies must not be cleaned and have a white/black attention decal advising not to clean.
8. A non-adjustable stop screw for close plate idle air flow.

 

That's why you use throttle body cleaner and not carb cleaner.

Numerous threads about how problematic idle/sputtering issues are resolved when throttle body is cleaned. MAF uses its own special cleaner.

 

The main reason (as was explained to me by a mechanic) is that the amount of crud you get from the PCV is rather minimal when compared to what you get from the EGR.

 

Maybe I'm mistaken, but don't all of the 2011+ mustangs use ETC?

 

I have the question on "how to" properly clean a ETC throttle body. I posted a new thread not wanting to high jack this one to much.
If you have any suggestions look at link.

https://themustangsource.com/f726/an...5/#post6818651

 

Good info here...

despite the recent posts, bottom line, oil separators are still needed right? Lol

 

Lol, yeah for sure. I'm going to invest in one.