You basically have two choices that meet Ford's WSS-M2C931-B spec. Motorcraft and Quaker State Ultimate Durability.

 

This is no different than someone that uses a better quality cooking oil or someone who chooses a better quality car wax or someone that spends top dollar on the latest TV. Would you be entertained watching TV on a smaller walmart brand? Does the olive oil keep food from sticking? Does the auto zone brand wax shine? Sure. But the panasonic zt60 has a much better picture, more features, and will last longer. And that sunflower oil has a higher boiling point, so it won't burn and ruin the food. And that mags ultimate wax protects better and has a deeper, wet shine. It boils down to good vs better.

I am Contributing nothing of value to this thread: I just want to steal this quote and use it in life. It's awesome!

And my car has been burning maybe 1-1.5 quarts of 5W20 every 5-8,000 kms. It's got 15,000 on it now. I had the oil changed at 6,400.
My car had ZERO oil left in it.
I'm surprised the engine didn't lock up solid.
I checked the oil at 12,000 kms, again, hardly any **** oil!
I added a quart. Then maybe another half a quart 1,000 km later and it's at full.
I only had the one oil change so far. The full synthetic is good for 10,000 kms. PLUS, I added 2 more quarts of the stuff since that oil change.

I think it's time for a change now though.

 

Mobil 1, Castrol, Redline, and then several random companies like Joe Gibs I believe will make whatever weight you want.

 

typesredline You sound like you know a little bit about Video???

 

Can you explain this? I have heard the track pack is bad for the strip but only anecdotally.

 

Yes sir. AV is my second passion.

 

It's just the nature of a mechanical diff. Under load and high tq like the coyote, the gears can break teeth etc.

The clutch pack diff in the non torsen equipped cars it much more durable under this load.

However, eventually clutch pack wear out. Over 10's of thousands of miles depending on use. Torsen is also going to be tighter in things like autoX bc of the way it works vs clutch type.

I've personally driven a tp gt and a non tp gt on an autoX course. Both feel very similar to me and on some turns I prefer the clutch type.

 

I'm curious to this as mine is burning more oil than I'm expecting too.

 

Ford told me to bring it back if it burns more oil or seems low. They already checked it, and it's not leaking.
15,000 kms, 1 full quart added prior to my 6400 kms oil change. Almost 10,000 kms since then, and 2 more quarts added.
This worries me a little bit. I dont have an air/oil separator installed yet.
When I was driving with my brother last week, he said he thought the car was burning oil because he saw a puff of smoke. It could have been exhaust? I think he saw that under acceleration when I was leaving a stop-light.

 

Do you drive your car hard or do you baby it ?

 

OK im really confused. The differential as such is not really working when you are going in a straight???? So the Torsen gears are not moving just the Ring and Pinion?

Also to me the Torsen is much more positive all the time are around a corner than the clutch type.

 

I always let the engine warm
Up to operating temperature before I go anywhere.
From a red light, I'm usually the first guy to the next light, but by no means do I bag the poop out of the car.

Maybe 6-7,000 highway kilometres, all 6th gear.
6,000 stop and go, with a few quick runs stoplight to stoplight.

 

I'm on my 2nd Coyote, both run hard with very little or no oil usage.

 

What do you guys think it could be? Ford said there weren't any leaks when they checked?

Maybe I didn't seat the rings properly?
Do I drive it THAT hard that I'm
Burning a quart every 5,000 km?
A flurry of people on the forum said that seems like a normal occurrence, but just as many say they are burning zero oil.

 

My guess would be the rings. My car burned a quart over 3 sessions at a road course (90 track miles) with 4000 miles on the ODO. Then after that it hasn't used a drop over the next 5 sessions, and now over 2000 miles later it still hasn't used any.

I've read that to seat the rings properly you need consistent high engine temps. So people who drive their cars hard seem to have less issues with oil consumption.

 

It's worked for me. I didn't "break in" my cars, I left the Dealer with my right foot to the floor and never let off.

 

There is something to be said about driving your car like you stole it from Day One...

Some will tell you that to very the rpm's for he first 1000 mile and not be consistent with them? Well I do both. Have never had a problem with any car. I am still wondering after 600 miles that I do not have any not one drop of oil in the PCV hose??? Not even the connector?

 

It's funny that when I was in Charlotte N.C. I met Dave Pericak ( chief engineer for the mustang) and he told me " drive it like you stole it". He even signed my 50th registry book with that quote.. Lol

I'm getting ready to do my second oil change at 8400 miles ( first was at 3400 miles). I was down one half quart at 3400 and I'm down one half quart at 8400. I used MC 5w50 for first change and will continue to. I'm also going to add ad catch can to see if it is being used up through the PCV.

I have tracked my car twice so far ( it is a Track Pack car) but drive it hard too. Dave said to drive it hard so I do. Lol.

 

My last two Coyotes have seen 140+ mph with less than 200 miles on the clock.

 

My driving is a bit different, especially on the track. You spend more time in 3rd and 4th gear around 5k rpm which is where the 50w oil comes in.