NEWB HERE LOOKING FOR GUIDANCE
NEWB HERE LOOKING FOR GUIDANCE
Hey all, just picked up my CS/GT Friday and I'm ready to start modding. Where's a good place to get the gt500 exhaust? Will I need to change my rear diffuser to get the dual tips? If so, is it pretty simple to do or is it best done by a body shop?
Next are lowering springs. I had Steeda springs on my ST and loved them. I see TJ is on this forum too so that's a no brainier for me but should I or do I need to replace the shocks too? If so, which ones seem to be the most popular (I might try a few track events but not likely do to work schedule)?
Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
Next are lowering springs. I had Steeda springs on my ST and loved them. I see TJ is on this forum too so that's a no brainier for me but should I or do I need to replace the shocks too? If so, which ones seem to be the most popular (I might try a few track events but not likely do to work schedule)?
Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
You can use just the springs, the panhard bar is advised the recenter the rear under the car, it gets offset to the side when lowering with the factory bar. Any panhard bar equipped car is going to shift when lowering the car, in a way a panhard bar is a pendulum…
Lowering with just the springs will cause excessive camber and uneven tire wear up front, that is why we use our strut mounts, in addition to being stronger they have room for camber adjustment, the stock ones do not.
The dampers (shocks and struts) control how the springs oscillate, the factory ones are matched to the factory springs. Our springs will work well with the factory ones, but upgrading is definitely worth it in terms of ride quality and performance both.
Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time also saves on labor cost/time and alignments.
Hope that helps!
Glad to see you on the Mustang side of things!
Best Regards,
TJ
Lowering with just the springs will cause excessive camber and uneven tire wear up front, that is why we use our strut mounts, in addition to being stronger they have room for camber adjustment, the stock ones do not.
The dampers (shocks and struts) control how the springs oscillate, the factory ones are matched to the factory springs. Our springs will work well with the factory ones, but upgrading is definitely worth it in terms of ride quality and performance both.
Springs, dampers, and mounts all have the same labor so doing them at the same time also saves on labor cost/time and alignments.
Hope that helps!
Glad to see you on the Mustang side of things!
Best Regards,
TJ
http://www.fordracingparts.com/where...erlocation.asp
you would need to buy a rear valance from local ford dealership for 199, part number DR3Z*17f828*AB. Worked well for my 2013. i had it installed by dealership costed me $224, i m not a good DIY person. but there are several people on this forum who have done it.. it involves some cutting..
BEFORE

AFTER
just search in ford racing parts webstie and find your nearest dealer.. go there you will get discounts upto 15% on part prices.. thats what they gave me.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/where...erlocation.asp
you would need to buy a rear valance from local ford dealership for 199, part number DR3Z*17f828*AB. Worked well for my 2013. i had it installed by dealership costed me $224, i m not a good DIY person. but there are several people on this forum who have done it.. it involves some cutting..
BEFORE

AFTER

http://www.fordracingparts.com/where...erlocation.asp
you would need to buy a rear valance from local ford dealership for 199, part number DR3Z*17f828*AB. Worked well for my 2013. i had it installed by dealership costed me $224, i m not a good DIY person. but there are several people on this forum who have done it.. it involves some cutting..
BEFORE

AFTER

Thanks. I've done a few projects but I don't think I'm up for cutting the car myself.
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